I think my Bose stereo might be leaking electrons; it sounds really bad. Does anyone know of a good electron recharge kit? I hope they don't stain my carpet.

 

Best fix for stock stereo:
Take it out.
hit with baseball bat. (office space style)
and replace it with a new one.
Same should be done with speakers

 

Buub: What made you decide to use different pads front and back? I replaced with Porterfields (4RS) front and back. I like them.

 

Because I wanted the Axxis Ultimates for casual track driving (i.e. I only go every now and then, not that I drive slow :-). But they only make fronts. So I put the Porterfields on the back. They drive good together though; no complaints.

 

Mike,

Okay, with the help from JESS (thanks again Jesse), I got my Hawkpad HPS pad changed today.

Well I did the break in of the pads and they work fabulous, no squeaking so far. I will let you know in a couple of months how they are.

BTW, after driving about 60 miles today and the hard break-in (8 times of braking hard from 60-10 mph), there was no visible BRAKE dust.

SO MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!

 

No problem, now that I've got mine done too. I gotta go do the break in thing.

 

Can someone step me through this? Pics would be great. I did a refill/flush on my old 91 Explorer but have yet to do the Max (assuming that the Max is close enough to the Z to get me going).

On the old car, I did the following:

1)Open bleeder screw at caliper.
2)Have wife push brake pedal to the floor.
3)Catch brake fluid.
4)Close bleeder screw.
5)Open reservoir and prepare to add new fluid.
6)Add fluid to reservoir as wife releases brake pedal.

Wash/Repeat/Wash Is this accurate for these cars? If it is, is the procedure above enough to completely drain/refill ONE caliper or must I do the above several times on a SINGLE caliper?

 

I've done a write-up on brake bleeding at: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm

In order to be most effective, you need to reverse steps 1 and 2 from your technique. Have your wife press on the brake pedal FIRST. That causes the system pressure to build, then you release it suddenly by opening the bleed screw 1/4 turn. Try to close the bleed screw just before the brake pedal reaches the floor.

Your technique, as written, will be effective at replacing the old fluid with new. But it doesn't jolt the fluid hard enough to knock loose any bubbles that are clinging to inside surfaces. An important part of bleeding is to get all the air bubbles out. If you follow my technique, you will end up with a firmer brake pedal than when you started.

 

Excellent write up! Thanks!