Wilwood vs Rotora BBK?
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From: Jacksonville & Ft Laud, FL
Greetings everyone. I tried searching the forums and haven't come up with a definitive answer, so here I am posting.
I am looking at the exact same sizes
14" front 6 piston with
13" rear 4 piston kits
What is the difference between Wilwood and Rotora? Is it just the name? or do Rotora's utilize more area on the rotor?
Is it materials? Longevity?
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance!
Adrian
I am looking at the exact same sizes
14" front 6 piston with
13" rear 4 piston kits
What is the difference between Wilwood and Rotora? Is it just the name? or do Rotora's utilize more area on the rotor?
Is it materials? Longevity?
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance!
Adrian
Doesnt seem like it, but call todd at TCE or PM him, he may know. Personally if i were to buy again i would get the TCE/Wilwood kit instead of the factory wilwood kit. Then again i track the hell out of my car. Wilwood parts are also easy to come by , and pads are available from many aftermarket companies. http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...s.pl?record=22
By 'contact area' I'm to assume you mean the surface area covered by the pad? The pad size so to speak?
Pad size has very little to do with function. A larger pad is often taller (radially) and may have a bit more swept area but also has a lower Effective Radius. Er is usually higher in competition set ups as they provide more rotor torque. Conversely they can build more heat and are less tolerant of run-out.
Back to pad size; regardless of pad size the value is clamping force based upon piston size. The pad can be HUGE but if the pistons are the same size the TINY pad is doing the same work. Larger pads, Er issues aside, simply last longer.
For the visually challenged....
Get your gal to put a stiletto heal on her right foot and a flip-flop on her left foot. Than ask her to stand on your back; one foot at a time. Which one does she weigh more on?
Pad size has very little to do with function. A larger pad is often taller (radially) and may have a bit more swept area but also has a lower Effective Radius. Er is usually higher in competition set ups as they provide more rotor torque. Conversely they can build more heat and are less tolerant of run-out.
Back to pad size; regardless of pad size the value is clamping force based upon piston size. The pad can be HUGE but if the pistons are the same size the TINY pad is doing the same work. Larger pads, Er issues aside, simply last longer.
For the visually challenged....
Get your gal to put a stiletto heal on her right foot and a flip-flop on her left foot. Than ask her to stand on your back; one foot at a time. Which one does she weigh more on?
Make sure yur gal isn't standing over your kidneys when she shifts to the stilettos....Your BBK fund will turn into your ER fund unless you got a line on aftermarket kidneys from some poor sap in Vegas
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From: Jacksonville & Ft Laud, FL
By 'contact area' I'm to assume you mean the surface area covered by the pad? The pad size so to speak?
Pad size has very little to do with function. A larger pad is often taller (radially) and may have a bit more swept area but also has a lower Effective Radius. Er is usually higher in competition set ups as they provide more rotor torque. Conversely they can build more heat and are less tolerant of run-out.
Back to pad size; regardless of pad size the value is clamping force based upon piston size. The pad can be HUGE but if the pistons are the same size the TINY pad is doing the same work. Larger pads, Er issues aside, simply last longer.
For the visually challenged....
Get your gal to put a stiletto heal on her right foot and a flip-flop on her left foot. Than ask her to stand on your back; one foot at a time. Which one does she weigh more on?
Pad size has very little to do with function. A larger pad is often taller (radially) and may have a bit more swept area but also has a lower Effective Radius. Er is usually higher in competition set ups as they provide more rotor torque. Conversely they can build more heat and are less tolerant of run-out.
Back to pad size; regardless of pad size the value is clamping force based upon piston size. The pad can be HUGE but if the pistons are the same size the TINY pad is doing the same work. Larger pads, Er issues aside, simply last longer.
For the visually challenged....
Get your gal to put a stiletto heal on her right foot and a flip-flop on her left foot. Than ask her to stand on your back; one foot at a time. Which one does she weigh more on?
I'll have to consider your kit if I track more frequently but at this point I might only get to track it 2-3 times a year.
Long story short, I just want to know which will perform better ... say... on a track - Comparing the wilwood factory kit to the rotora kit b/c I intend to track it in June & hopefully a couple more times in the summer.
FYI, I have a Wilwood factory kit and a Rotora kit lol I just have to choose which to put on!
Thanks everyone
Put on the Rotora and send me the Wilwoods haha
I think if you are doing 1 or two track days, it doesn't really make a whole lot of difference. I would say put on which ever one has a lower resale.
I think if you are doing 1 or two track days, it doesn't really make a whole lot of difference. I would say put on which ever one has a lower resale.
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I can't speak for the Rotora kit, good or bad so I have nothing to offer there.
What I can say is that the Wilwood kit when properly set up with track pads is a very capable design for the 90%ers out there who 'track' a car a few times a year. For the more hard core user I'd suggest a look at yet beefier calipers and rotors.
From where you ask? Why from me of course....lol. I not only offer the standard factory kits but also a W6a caliper substitution which provided an increase in caliper rigidity and pad size. (that longer life thing) This set up can be fit with Thermlock pistons as well. If that's not enough, you can fit a custom bridge spacer that enlarges the caliper to fit up to a 1.400" wide rotor.
Gut check time...how much do you want to spend and how serious are you?? I've got calipers alone that sell for $3k. Each. Reality check time....if you're an enthusiast that's cool too, but don't look for fully dedicated racing parts in a kit that sell for $1500.
Toss out some ideas and I'll see what I can do.
*what's the difference you ask? Just a little.

What I can say is that the Wilwood kit when properly set up with track pads is a very capable design for the 90%ers out there who 'track' a car a few times a year. For the more hard core user I'd suggest a look at yet beefier calipers and rotors.
From where you ask? Why from me of course....lol. I not only offer the standard factory kits but also a W6a caliper substitution which provided an increase in caliper rigidity and pad size. (that longer life thing) This set up can be fit with Thermlock pistons as well. If that's not enough, you can fit a custom bridge spacer that enlarges the caliper to fit up to a 1.400" wide rotor.
Gut check time...how much do you want to spend and how serious are you?? I've got calipers alone that sell for $3k. Each. Reality check time....if you're an enthusiast that's cool too, but don't look for fully dedicated racing parts in a kit that sell for $1500.
Toss out some ideas and I'll see what I can do.
*what's the difference you ask? Just a little.

Last edited by Todd TCE; Apr 3, 2009 at 06:28 PM.
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From: Jacksonville & Ft Laud, FL
I can't speak for the Rotora kit, good or bad so I have nothing to offer there.
What I can say is that the Wilwood kit when properly set up with track pads is a very capable design for the 90%ers out there who 'track' a car a few times a year. For the more hard core user I'd suggest a look at yet beefier calipers and rotors.
From where you ask? Why from me of course....lol. I not only offer the standard factory kits but also a W6a caliper substitution which provided an increase in caliper rigidity and pad size. (that longer life thing) This set up can be fit with Thermlock pistons as well. If that's not enough, you can fit a custom bridge spacer that enlarges the caliper to fit up to a 1.400" wide rotor.
Gut check time...how much do you want to spend and how serious are you?? I've got calipers alone that sell for $3k. Each. Reality check time....if you're an enthusiast that's cool too, but don't look for fully dedicated racing parts in a kit that sell for $1500.
Toss out some ideas and I'll see what I can do.
*what's the difference you ask? Just a little.

What I can say is that the Wilwood kit when properly set up with track pads is a very capable design for the 90%ers out there who 'track' a car a few times a year. For the more hard core user I'd suggest a look at yet beefier calipers and rotors.
From where you ask? Why from me of course....lol. I not only offer the standard factory kits but also a W6a caliper substitution which provided an increase in caliper rigidity and pad size. (that longer life thing) This set up can be fit with Thermlock pistons as well. If that's not enough, you can fit a custom bridge spacer that enlarges the caliper to fit up to a 1.400" wide rotor.
Gut check time...how much do you want to spend and how serious are you?? I've got calipers alone that sell for $3k. Each. Reality check time....if you're an enthusiast that's cool too, but don't look for fully dedicated racing parts in a kit that sell for $1500.
Toss out some ideas and I'll see what I can do.
*what's the difference you ask? Just a little.

Lol, that's pretty damn funny... why? because its like.. "here, this is what you have now...

and this is what you could have

hahahahahaha
DOH! Why am I laughing!?!
EDIT, you know I did notice that while installing. I was thinking the pistons could be spread out some more. It still stops really well as it is!
Last edited by Jamaica2G; Apr 3, 2009 at 07:34 PM.
I've got the non TCE wilwood kit: 14" c/d slotted all around with a 6/4 pot combo. I use this on my drift/track car exclusively and it works perfectly!
Performs amazing for the price!
EDIT: When drifting I use the 35th anniversary 18"s (only rears {8.5" width 255 tires} in all 4 corners) and it clears with no problem. Hope that helps too!
Performs amazing for the price!
EDIT: When drifting I use the 35th anniversary 18"s (only rears {8.5" width 255 tires} in all 4 corners) and it clears with no problem. Hope that helps too!
Thread Starter
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From: Jacksonville & Ft Laud, FL
What is the height and width comparison of the pads used by the upgraded caliper when compared to the "factory wilwood kit"?
I measured the contact radius on my front rotor and it appears that 1.75" of the rotor's radius is used. From the pictures above, the upgraded pads look taller so that might mean 2.0" of pad height? or 2.0" of the rotor's radius is used in contact. Am I correct? Incorrect?
they look wider too but im sure its easier for u to tell me than for me to go pull the caliper & look @ the pad.
Adrian
Last edited by Jamaica2G; Apr 13, 2009 at 08:02 PM.
I've got the non TCE wilwood kit: 14" c/d slotted all around with a 6/4 pot combo. I use this on my drift/track car exclusively and it works perfectly!
Performs amazing for the price!
EDIT: When drifting I use the 35th anniversary 18"s (only rears {8.5" width 255 tires} in all 4 corners) and it clears with no problem. Hope that helps too!
Performs amazing for the price!
EDIT: When drifting I use the 35th anniversary 18"s (only rears {8.5" width 255 tires} in all 4 corners) and it clears with no problem. Hope that helps too!
Very few aftermarket wheels though are as forgiving. IE: my XD9 are giving me no end of headaches.
Total thread jack and I apologize...What are you trying to run on your xd9's?? I'm thinking of finally getting a set of BBK w/ my xd9's.
K sorry again for thread jack Adrian
K sorry again for thread jack Adrian
The 35th anniversary 18 wheels comfortably clear even the 14"+ 6pots AP-Racing kit (witnessed first hand). They are incredibly spacious for an 18" with that kind of high offset.
Very few aftermarket wheels though are as forgiving. IE: my XD9 are giving me no end of headaches.
Very few aftermarket wheels though are as forgiving. IE: my XD9 are giving me no end of headaches.
Mine are 18x9 30 offset (front), I managed to test fit an AP-racing kit, track brembos and a no-name bulky 13"kit with just the wheel (all front right) and with a 9mm spacer.
Due to the hasty nature of the test fits you can't rely on them when the margins are uber-low.
-Brembos seem to fit just fine in all conditions. This is confirmed by work wheels too (tested)
-AP-Racing 14" doesn't clear, no matter what (tested)
-Generic (bulky) 13" kit almost touches with 30, clears by about 2 or 3mm (for some serious track use that's kinda borderline, you'd want 4 at least) with 21 offset, looking at the barrel tapering of the wheel it would probably clear with 3 to 4mm with 19 offset.(tested)
-Wilwood 13" kit will probably touch or not clear safely with 30offset, should clear with the safe margin with 21 offset (work-wheels mail, not tested, but going by the wilwood sheets and how they compare to the no-name kit it sounds right)
-Endless 13" and compact calipers clear by 4-5mm with 21 offset (going by other user and something half hinted at by work wheels)
I'm hunting down/waiting for the stoptech schematics, I'm under the impression they have a slightly leaner caliper design than the wilwood kit, which means they would barely clear for show (not for track use) with 30, and probably clear well from 24 and down.
No need to hut them down or wait, they are on our website here:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wheel_fitment.shtml
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wheel_fitment.shtml







