SPC has recently redesigned the ABS bracket because of all the ABS and Slip light problems.

When I called them for help, they immediately offered to send me the new brackets.

I should have them tomorrow. Updates to follow. . .

 

Good to know...I'm about to place an order for the full kit and would like to have the revised bracket in hand before I install.

 

SPC camber kit? Front or rear?

I just ordered the rear kit and wasn't aware of any issues that cant be resolved after an alignment.

 

The front is the issue, which is one of the reasons why we've never bothered to offer it (it's gone through a few revisions since originally released)

The rear kit is problem free

 

Thanks Adam, I appreciate the info. Looking forward to installing the kit en-route from Z1.

 

OK here is my update on the new SBC from ABS relocation brackets . . . . . they do not work.

The front SBC camber kit comes with a tapered shim that is installed behind the axle stub. Since it is a tapered shim, its purpose is to angle the axle down. The problem with using this shim, is that it changes the ABS sensor distance, and this needs to be corrected. SBC has tried a number of different approaches . . . . which I have not had any success with. MY BRAKE LIGHT AND SLIP LIGHT ARE ON when I use the axle shim and ANY of the SBC ABS bracket solutions.

I know that there is a specific distance that the ABS sensor needs to be away from the hub, but I am unable to get a feeler gage in the tight area to measure it.

Does anyone have a recommendation that might help ?

Thanks.

 

I had a similar problem problem with the SPC front camber kit with the lights and the problem of when I braked I'd hear the constant spring noise (abs sensor going nuts) as I came to a slow stop.

I took it to the dealership and the tech that I trust had to bend the bracket holding the ABS sensor and adjust it accordingly so it would have the correct spacing. He test drove it with the consult hooked in so he could monitor what the ABS sensor readings to ensure none of the sensors were bad and to see how much they were off (readings wise). Also the shim creates more space in the hub for crap to get into the hole where the sensor pokes in so he also had to clean that out as well.

I haven't had the problem with lights or spring noise when I come to a stop ever since.

 

I just had the SPC kit installed. Front and rear. I have the ABS/BRAKE/SLIP/VDC OFF light on now and it's pissing me off. I'm going to try and set the sensor gap tomorrow at my own shop. Does anyone know what the stock gap should be for the ABS sensor on the front?

Anyone have advice for me from someone who's solved this problem?

Thanks in advance.

 

Disregard previous post. I fixed it.

 

How did you fix it? Can you tell us what you did? Thanks =)

 

Shim your ABS sensor after SPC Install:

1. Jack up your car using jack points and allow wheel assemblies to hang.
2. Locate ABS sensor.
3. Remove ABS sensor bolt using 12mm.
4. Remove dust cap.
5. Using a feeler gauge bent at 90 degrees measure the gap.
6. Purchase/Make shims to achieve 0.015" +/- 0.001" gap.
7. Install ABS sensor and shims without installing dust cap.
8. Using a feeler gauge bent at 90 degrees measure the gap.
9. If gap is good then remove ABS sensor then reassemble with dust cap.
10. Road test (All lights should turn off within 15 seconds of normal driving)

The brackets/bolts were never designed to be a certain size. These are manufactured parts that have tolerances. SPC's approach to "design" a bracket to a certain tolerance is already flawed. Each car, each side, will be different. We are talking about thousands of an inch tolerance here. Bolts/SPC brackets couldn't possibly be designed in a way to work for everyone, nor should they be. SPC's flaw is that they don't include a more varried assortment of shims. I'll e-mail SPC and let them know they should include instructions for installers on how to shim the ABS sensor as well as to include a variety of shims with their future kits.

For reference my right side required a 0.023" shim and the left required 0.019"

My advice is to start with a 0.020" shim and go from there.

Hope this helps!

 

Thanks a lot bro! Other than that how do you like the kit?

 

It's pretty damn good. I havn't heard any clunking or banging when hitting the smaller potholes in the road. I havn't hit anything really hard or large. The arms didn't hit anything when being lowered, so clearance wasn't an issue. I'm very happy with it.

 

I read through this, but still a bit confused, I bought ichiba arms to try and avoid these problems, but nope, happened anyway. The ichiba are arms only no spacers or anything like that. I do not have any lights, but at slow speeds my ABS goes nuts. I removed the fuse for now.

So is the problem that the sensor becomes to close or too far from the hub sensor? Why you say shim the ABS wheel sensor, are you shimming it out, meaning between the sensor are the bracket? Gonna take a look tomorrow after I get the alignment dialed it, I didnt have a chance to throw it on the rack before we closed today.

 

You shouldn't be having any problems with your ABS if you didn't install the tapered shim. The stock mounting location doesn't require any shimming for the sensor. I would say it's unrelated, but the coincidence is uncanny. Even though installing the arms doesn't require touching the ABS sensor. It's possible your alignment is out so badly that the ABS is screwing up because of it.

 

this was my first thought as well, so when I got home, I moved the arms both to the negative and then positive and going on a drive. Neither changed the situation. I did have to replace an ABS wheel sensor when I put my struts a few months ago because I damaged it, but I got no light, so I assumed that both sensors are ok, and that the arms were the cause. Ill report back after I get on the alignment rack tomorrow unless someone else has another idea?

 

Well today really sucked haha. I got on the alignment rack, and it was way out indeed. I was able to bring the toe in just fine, but the arms would only pull the camber to about -2, which is was around -2.5 with the original arms...So im a bit disappointed with that...however, the dust boot on one my ball joints was ripped from being lowered, so I was going to need a new arm anyway, but still disappointed with the outcome. It also did not fix my abs problem. The only thing our techs could come up with is that I must have damage an abs wheel sensor enough that it is reading the incorrect speed, but still functioning, causing the abs to kick on. This has been a depressing day!

 

I would ask around for someone who had the SPC kit and didn't install the taper shim. I saw a guy just two weeks ago in the Canada East section giving his away. That will correct your camber if you are looking to get it back in spec. However camber alone shouldn't even phase your ABS. It would be out of whack toe causing a wheel to drag which should be the culprit. I guess you're going to have to pay Nissan the 1 hour diagnosing time to figure out if any of the sensors are bad.

Sorry about your bad luck.

 

Oh, that sensor either works or doesn't. It's sending out a sine wave which is being measured by the ABS/VCD computer. Either that signal is being sent or it isn't. It can't partially work. If the ABS sensor is working then either you damaged the sender hub or the computer is messing up (unlikely).

 

My cousin is a Nissan tech, im gonna go up Tuesday to have him look at it, but he already admitted he doesn't know tho, never seen this issue before. I wasnt anywhere near the hub tho putting in upper control arms. the confusing part I guess is there are no codes, so the only thing really is thatit has tobe reading the signal inccorectly, because that is what activates the abs...dunno, Ill report back Tuesday unless someone else comes up with something! In the mean time I disconnected the abs module, Ill just have to be careful in the rain, I sure hope I can figure this out before winter...