Need Help choosing a Coilover kit for my car!!
05-27-2009, 09:41 AM
#23
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BC Coilovers
Ok im pretty new to the 350z so i really dont know what kind of coilover kit to go with. A friend of mine told me that the Function & Form is a good kit but i never really heard of them. Im going to use my car as a daily driver. Im buying 19s this week so i want a good ride height. Something that isnt a hard ride. Are there any suggestions out there. I would appreciate it Thanks.
I have tracked the car about 5 times sense i installed them, and on the track they blew my mind. Driving on the street did them no justice at all, the track was where i saw what they could really do. I have had many other sets of coils on various different cars, and bang for the buck i don't think there is anything better out there.
As far as lowering the car, these are perfect for that extreme drop as well. They are independent spring perch's so you adjust preload separate from height adjustment, this means that you get full shock travel at max drop. Unlike other setups where you have a limited amount of room to drop, due to the fact that you are compressing the piston down into the shock body as you lower the car. This means that you can only lower the car as far as the manufacture recommends before damaging or bottoming out the shock.
05-27-2009, 10:28 AM
#24
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I have been running BC Coilovers on my Z for about a year now, and they a freaking awesome! I drive the car on a daily basis on some pretty rough Orlando streets, and they a excellent. I have them set about 10 clicks from full soft, and i think it's pretty damn close to factory.
I have tracked the car about 5 times sense i installed them, and on the track they blew my mind. Driving on the street did them no justice at all, the track was where i saw what they could really do. I have had many other sets of coils on various different cars, and bang for the buck i don't think there is anything better out there.
As far as lowering the car, these are perfect for that extreme drop as well. They are independent spring perch's so you adjust preload separate from height adjustment, this means that you get full shock travel at max drop. Unlike other setups where you have a limited amount of room to drop, due to the fact that you are compressing the piston down into the shock body as you lower the car. This means that you can only lower the car as far as the manufacture recommends before damaging or bottoming out the shock.
I have tracked the car about 5 times sense i installed them, and on the track they blew my mind. Driving on the street did them no justice at all, the track was where i saw what they could really do. I have had many other sets of coils on various different cars, and bang for the buck i don't think there is anything better out there.
As far as lowering the car, these are perfect for that extreme drop as well. They are independent spring perch's so you adjust preload separate from height adjustment, this means that you get full shock travel at max drop. Unlike other setups where you have a limited amount of room to drop, due to the fact that you are compressing the piston down into the shock body as you lower the car. This means that you can only lower the car as far as the manufacture recommends before damaging or bottoming out the shock.
Why do some other members say that they suck with NO explanation?
What are the spring rates for the BC coil over kit?
and how low did you drop the car in the front and in the rear?
do you have sways?
Reason why i would like to know how much you lowered it front and rear is simply to see how you balanced the car out.
Thanks!
05-27-2009, 10:39 AM
#25
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Spring rates are 10kg/mm front, 8kg/mm rear. Optional spring rates of 12 kgmm/10kg/mm are sold separately
The standard springs out back allow for a bit more than a 2 inch drop. If that's not enough, they have an optional shorter rear spring setup that is sold separately, that would let you basically put the diff cover on the ground if you wanted (not sure why you would want to, but still)
The standard springs out back allow for a bit more than a 2 inch drop. If that's not enough, they have an optional shorter rear spring setup that is sold separately, that would let you basically put the diff cover on the ground if you wanted (not sure why you would want to, but still)
05-27-2009, 11:47 AM
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Sounds real good...and i have been thinking about these....
Why do some other members say that they suck with NO explanation?
What are the spring rates for the BC coil over kit?
and how low did you drop the car in the front and in the rear?
do you have sways?
Reason why i would like to know how much you lowered it front and rear is simply to see how you balanced the car out.
Thanks!
Why do some other members say that they suck with NO explanation?
What are the spring rates for the BC coil over kit?
and how low did you drop the car in the front and in the rear?
do you have sways?
Reason why i would like to know how much you lowered it front and rear is simply to see how you balanced the car out.
Thanks!
The spring rates are 10/8 from BC, If you want 12/10 you can get them at the time of purchase for no extra charge. I have been in contact with BC, i am going to be ordering a ER series from them real soon for the Z. I'm gonna put the BR series on my wife's G, when i get the ERs. So i was just asking them about getting the G lower than the Z, Sense it doesn't get tracked.
They informed me that their is no need to order a shorter rear spring to get the car lower. They said that all i have to do is add more pre-load to the rear to drop it more.
Yes i am running sways, i have hotchkis. I have Battel version camber in the rear and Cusco upper control arms in the front.
I honestly cant tell you how low i went from factory, due to the fact that i have changed my ride height multiple times sense i installed them. Right now i have about a finger, finger and a half gap all the way around from tire to fenders edge. It's about perfect for me and i still have room to go lower if i wanted. I definitely think you could tuck rim no problem, if you wanted.
05-27-2009, 11:55 AM
#27
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there is a charge to change spring rates, even if you order them at the time of ordering the coilovers
adding preload is not something you want to do....preload should be as minimal as possible. Does it lower the car further? Sure, but now your stroke to spring movement is out of whack, and things get bouncy. Using the shorter spring is the correct way to go about it
adding preload is not something you want to do....preload should be as minimal as possible. Does it lower the car further? Sure, but now your stroke to spring movement is out of whack, and things get bouncy. Using the shorter spring is the correct way to go about it
05-27-2009, 12:06 PM
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there is a charge to change spring rates, even if you order them at the time of ordering the coilovers
adding preload is not something you want to do....preload should be as minimal as possible. Does it lower the car further? Sure, but now your stroke to spring movement is out of whack, and things get bouncy. Using the shorter spring is the correct way to go about it
adding preload is not something you want to do....preload should be as minimal as possible. Does it lower the car further? Sure, but now your stroke to spring movement is out of whack, and things get bouncy. Using the shorter spring is the correct way to go about it
I definitely understand what your saying about the pre-load.
I spoke to Pete at BC a week ago, I was told by him that when you order a set of coils that you are not charged for spring changes. He said that that's how it was in the past, Like when i bought my first set i was told that i have to pay for spring changes. I guess they have changed that in the past year.
I will call BC again and clarify this for all of us.
05-27-2009, 01:57 PM
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I definitely understand what your saying about the pre-load.
I spoke to Pete at BC a week ago, I was told by him that when you order a set of coils that you are not charged for spring changes. He said that that's how it was in the past, Like when i bought my first set i was told that i have to pay for spring changes. I guess they have changed that in the past year.
I will call BC again and clarify this for all of us.
I spoke to Pete at BC a week ago, I was told by him that when you order a set of coils that you are not charged for spring changes. He said that that's how it was in the past, Like when i bought my first set i was told that i have to pay for spring changes. I guess they have changed that in the past year.
I will call BC again and clarify this for all of us.
He assured me that their is no charge for spring changes as long as they are done at time of purchase. If not then they will cost us 100 dollars a pair, so 200 hundred for all four corners. I would say that it's best to decide at time of purchase what your plans are for your car.
He also explained to me that with a independent rear suspension you can add more pre-load to the spring. Our cars have a separate spring and strut set up (Independent Suspension) so when you add more pre-load to the spring you adjust the lower mount on the coilover to shorten the total length of the coil. This does not shorten the stroke of the piston in any way, due to the fact that BC coils are designed to be adjusted to any height while maintaining the same shock travel. This is good for the guys who wanna go real low.
If their is still confusion i can take some pics of my setup and show what he is talking about. Im sure you can find some pics on-line or on the forum of the same setup.
Hope that cleared it up
05-27-2009, 02:09 PM
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Compress your spring all the way, and adjust the lower mount collar, and let me know how it behaves. Some preload is ok, but it is intended to, and should be, kept to a minimum on this on or any other coilover.
As far as the spring costs, perhaps if they are being sold at full MSRP then there is no charge. But given the heavily discounted prices that the suppliers of BC (us included) sell them for on a "street" price level, I will tell you, there is a charge for alternate spring rates, even if it's done at the time of ordering. If you want to pay MSRP for the coilovers, I'll happily let you choose whatever spring rate you want at no additional cost
As far as the spring costs, perhaps if they are being sold at full MSRP then there is no charge. But given the heavily discounted prices that the suppliers of BC (us included) sell them for on a "street" price level, I will tell you, there is a charge for alternate spring rates, even if it's done at the time of ordering. If you want to pay MSRP for the coilovers, I'll happily let you choose whatever spring rate you want at no additional cost
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 05-27-2009 at 02:21 PM.
05-27-2009, 09:49 PM
#32
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Spring rates are 10kg/mm front, 8kg/mm rear. Optional spring rates of 12 kgmm/10kg/mm are sold separately
The standard springs out back allow for a bit more than a 2 inch drop. If that's not enough, they have an optional shorter rear spring setup that is sold separately, that would let you basically put the diff cover on the ground if you wanted (not sure why you would want to, but still)
The standard springs out back allow for a bit more than a 2 inch drop. If that's not enough, they have an optional shorter rear spring setup that is sold separately, that would let you basically put the diff cover on the ground if you wanted (not sure why you would want to, but still)
the standard kit 10k 8k sounds reasonable to me....
I have one last question for now...
Please tell me that these springs are linear..........
I am not after the perfect drop as i found out that trying to EVEN out the car seems to throw more stiffness to the rear.....i like the way the car handles stock....i am looking for stock "way better"
not to happy with my RS-R springs and the Tokico D-specs----I think the simultaneous adjustment of compression and rebound is something that i don't really like.....these BC sound good because the don't cost anymore money that KONI replacements....plus alot of other benefits like stiffer springs and full adjustability....
i have front Topspeed A-arms with adjustable camber so i am good up front....in the rear when i had the GF210's on for a week the stock camber arms (i was told by the mechanic) had more adjustment in them even though the rear was lowered 1.2 inches....I don't think i will need a rear camber kit at this point....if I do....does anyone know of a bang for buck cheap camber arm set that i can buy?
thanks!
since the "tech" forums are dead....i think my350z is my new home...you guys are great with advice
05-27-2009, 09:54 PM
#33
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It seems that people tend to just fallow the crowd sometimes. I have had no problems at all with my coils, I and two others that i know run them on their Z as well and we are huge advocates for them.
The spring rates are 10/8 from BC, If you want 12/10 you can get them at the time of purchase for no extra charge. I have been in contact with BC, i am going to be ordering a ER series from them real soon for the Z. I'm gonna put the BR series on my wife's G, when i get the ERs. So i was just asking them about getting the G lower than the Z, Sense it doesn't get tracked.
They informed me that their is no need to order a shorter rear spring to get the car lower. They said that all i have to do is add more pre-load to the rear to drop it more.
Yes i am running sways, i have hotchkis. I have Battel version camber in the rear and Cusco upper control arms in the front.
I honestly cant tell you how low i went from factory, due to the fact that i have changed my ride height multiple times sense i installed them. Right now i have about a finger, finger and a half gap all the way around from tire to fenders edge. It's about perfect for me and i still have room to go lower if i wanted. I definitely think you could tuck rim no problem, if you wanted.
The spring rates are 10/8 from BC, If you want 12/10 you can get them at the time of purchase for no extra charge. I have been in contact with BC, i am going to be ordering a ER series from them real soon for the Z. I'm gonna put the BR series on my wife's G, when i get the ERs. So i was just asking them about getting the G lower than the Z, Sense it doesn't get tracked.
They informed me that their is no need to order a shorter rear spring to get the car lower. They said that all i have to do is add more pre-load to the rear to drop it more.
Yes i am running sways, i have hotchkis. I have Battel version camber in the rear and Cusco upper control arms in the front.
I honestly cant tell you how low i went from factory, due to the fact that i have changed my ride height multiple times sense i installed them. Right now i have about a finger, finger and a half gap all the way around from tire to fenders edge. It's about perfect for me and i still have room to go lower if i wanted. I definitely think you could tuck rim no problem, if you wanted.
Thanks!
05-28-2009, 04:27 AM
#34
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yes the springs are linear
Eibach rear camber/toe kit is your absolute best bet - under $160 when purchased from us with the coilovers, and will give you tons of adjustment
Something important to keep in mind, to avoid the generic "the car handles great" type responses and get to the heart of the situation - over/understeer is not a zero sum game - swaybar settings (and preload if you have adjustable endlinks), wheel width/offset and resulting tire choice and pressure, cornerbalane (or lack), front and rear roll centers, integrity of bushings, and more (and not the least of which, driving style) all go to determining over or understeer
Eibach rear camber/toe kit is your absolute best bet - under $160 when purchased from us with the coilovers, and will give you tons of adjustment
Something important to keep in mind, to avoid the generic "the car handles great" type responses and get to the heart of the situation - over/understeer is not a zero sum game - swaybar settings (and preload if you have adjustable endlinks), wheel width/offset and resulting tire choice and pressure, cornerbalane (or lack), front and rear roll centers, integrity of bushings, and more (and not the least of which, driving style) all go to determining over or understeer
05-28-2009, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1Auto website
Installation requires you to elongate the holes on your strut casing slightly to allow the eccentric action of the toe bolt.
Last edited by warmmilk; 05-28-2009 at 07:28 AM.
05-28-2009, 07:54 AM
#39
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the manual recommended 5 turns from full stiff....but i could easily compress it in my hand so i went to 4 turns from full stiff on all four and procedded to install them....this was on a saturday
after going around the block twice i immediately went to 3 turns up front and then two......then i set the rears at 3 and left it there at it felt good.
monday when i left work it felt soft????? so when i got off the freeway to go to the bank i set it to 1 turn from full stiff up front and then 2 turns in the rear.....
at the end of the week on a thursday....it started feeling soft again...so going to the bank (yes again) i was in the parking lot and just set everything to full stiff.....it was kinda harsh......the next day after work it was more of a comfy stiff.....It has held this feeling up to now thank god
the problem with these D-specs is that they adjust compression and rebound at the same time....on paper it sounds good, but not on the road.....
the stiffer the setting the better it feels EXCEPT that it fights compression and rebound the more you tighten them up...and it can be a bad thing....
i like stiff, but i want it to be more forgiving.....but the wierd part is that they are comfy stiff...i bet anything less than 1 turn from full hard maybe 2 is just TOO SOFT.
what is wierding me out.....
1. did the struts just crap out prematureley?
2. do they actually settle (air bubbles- but i doubt it)
It COULD be my cut down rear upper spring mounts, but i ordered a new set 2 weeks ago and they still have not arrived for me to even test out!
the spring mounts MAY be the problem, but i doubt it will improve the damping.
i have to experiment a little more and see.
I really wish I got the KONI's instead.....now for the money.....instead of KONI i rather get coil overs for two reasons
1. higher spring rates
2. stiffer strut to handle those rates....koni's would have to be revalved, but their are no aftermarket springs with rates that would call for re valving.....plus these coil overs are just flat out cheaper!!!!
Last edited by danimaldaisy; 05-28-2009 at 09:51 AM.
05-28-2009, 08:02 AM
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yes the springs are linear
Eibach rear camber/toe kit is your absolute best bet - under $160 when purchased from us with the coilovers, and will give you tons of adjustment
Something important to keep in mind, to avoid the generic "the car handles great" type responses and get to the heart of the situation - over/understeer is not a zero sum game - swaybar settings (and preload if you have adjustable endlinks), wheel width/offset and resulting tire choice and pressure, cornerbalane (or lack), front and rear roll centers, integrity of bushings, and more (and not the least of which, driving style) all go to determining over or understeer
Eibach rear camber/toe kit is your absolute best bet - under $160 when purchased from us with the coilovers, and will give you tons of adjustment
Something important to keep in mind, to avoid the generic "the car handles great" type responses and get to the heart of the situation - over/understeer is not a zero sum game - swaybar settings (and preload if you have adjustable endlinks), wheel width/offset and resulting tire choice and pressure, cornerbalane (or lack), front and rear roll centers, integrity of bushings, and more (and not the least of which, driving style) all go to determining over or understeer
Nissan tech said all bushings look good, maybe they are not cracked or anything, but they could be worn out....
I would like to put a BIG what if into my troubleshooting.....because WHAT IF i buy coilovers and still have a problem.....what IF their is nothing wrong with my D-specs.....
I am thinking of going the CHEAP way (i have spent lots of money on 3 sets of springs and shocks over 2 years to get where i am at now) and am waiting on upper spring mounts and am thinking of buying factory replacement endlinks cause i can get them from mynismo.com for 60.00 for all four like i did two years ago....
short of a full blown bushing kit....this is where i stand....
Then again WHAT if my setup sucks!
PS...i had tokico blues get completely soft on me after a month QQ issues??
they had half compression of brand new....