Need Help choosing a Coilover kit for my car!!
06-01-2009 | 06:38 PM
#61
06-01-2009 | 07:02 PM
#62
The instructions say that you can go 7.5 turns from full stiff which would be full soft(feels like a blown shock on this setting as it has ZERO damping)
the manual recommended 5 turns from full stiff....but i could easily compress it in my hand so i went to 4 turns from full stiff on all four and procedded to install them....this was on a saturday
after going around the block twice i immediately went to 3 turns up front and then two......then i set the rears at 3 and left it there at it felt good.
monday when i left work it felt soft????? so when i got off the freeway to go to the bank i set it to 1 turn from full stiff up front and then 2 turns in the rear.....
at the end of the week on a thursday....it started feeling soft again...so going to the bank (yes again) i was in the parking lot and just set everything to full stiff.....it was kinda harsh......the next day after work it was more of a comfy stiff.....It has held this feeling up to now thank god
the problem with these D-specs is that they adjust compression and rebound at the same time....on paper it sounds good, but not on the road.....
the stiffer the setting the better it feels EXCEPT that it fights compression and rebound the more you tighten them up...and it can be a bad thing....
i like stiff, but i want it to be more forgiving.....but the wierd part is that they are comfy stiff...i bet anything less than 1 turn from full hard maybe 2 is just TOO SOFT.
what is wierding me out.....
1. did the struts just crap out prematureley?
2. do they actually settle (air bubbles- but i doubt it)
It COULD be my cut down rear upper spring mounts, but i ordered a new set 2 weeks ago and they still have not arrived for me to even test out!
the spring mounts MAY be the problem, but i doubt it will improve the damping.
i have to experiment a little more and see.
I really wish I got the KONI's instead.....now for the money.....instead of KONI i rather get coil overs for two reasons
1. higher spring rates
2. stiffer strut to handle those rates....koni's would have to be revalved, but their are no aftermarket springs with rates that would call for re valving.....plus these coil overs are just flat out cheaper!!!!
the manual recommended 5 turns from full stiff....but i could easily compress it in my hand so i went to 4 turns from full stiff on all four and procedded to install them....this was on a saturday
after going around the block twice i immediately went to 3 turns up front and then two......then i set the rears at 3 and left it there at it felt good.
monday when i left work it felt soft????? so when i got off the freeway to go to the bank i set it to 1 turn from full stiff up front and then 2 turns in the rear.....
at the end of the week on a thursday....it started feeling soft again...so going to the bank (yes again) i was in the parking lot and just set everything to full stiff.....it was kinda harsh......the next day after work it was more of a comfy stiff.....It has held this feeling up to now thank god
the problem with these D-specs is that they adjust compression and rebound at the same time....on paper it sounds good, but not on the road.....
the stiffer the setting the better it feels EXCEPT that it fights compression and rebound the more you tighten them up...and it can be a bad thing....
i like stiff, but i want it to be more forgiving.....but the wierd part is that they are comfy stiff...i bet anything less than 1 turn from full hard maybe 2 is just TOO SOFT.
what is wierding me out.....
1. did the struts just crap out prematureley?
2. do they actually settle (air bubbles- but i doubt it)
It COULD be my cut down rear upper spring mounts, but i ordered a new set 2 weeks ago and they still have not arrived for me to even test out!
the spring mounts MAY be the problem, but i doubt it will improve the damping.
i have to experiment a little more and see.
I really wish I got the KONI's instead.....now for the money.....instead of KONI i rather get coil overs for two reasons
1. higher spring rates
2. stiffer strut to handle those rates....koni's would have to be revalved, but their are no aftermarket springs with rates that would call for re valving.....plus these coil overs are just flat out cheaper!!!!
At this moment, I would NOT send you down the path of Koni's or coilovers.
06-01-2009 | 07:17 PM
#64
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 204
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From: Inland Empire
Gsedan
I believe that i am having a problem with my stock end links (and i just replaced them last year)
you see...it seems that the stock end links no longer have any preload on the sways especially in the rear.
I believe the problem was progressively happening and that i was over compensating the lack of sway bar performance with the Struts by maxing them out....now that i have clearly identified the problem...at this point i don't believe the struts are bad anymore....
I can get some adjustable end links as long as they can compensate for my problem efficiently, but what if i find myself adjusting after a week or two...or what if i run out of adjustment....just so that you know...my car just turned 100,000 miles last week and is almost 4 and a half years old (built in january of 05)
the bushings may be gone....maybe if i am actually able to solve the problem....others who are suffering from the same problem will have a solution.
under the rear of the car with the rear tires of the ground i have NO preload.....wonder if i can adjust the endlinks temporarily to a position that will give me preload in the rear....it would be in the wrong hole, but it just might work just to experiment with it....
in the end....I may have to install a bushing kit along with the endlinks.
what do you think?
I believe that i am having a problem with my stock end links (and i just replaced them last year)
you see...it seems that the stock end links no longer have any preload on the sways especially in the rear.
I believe the problem was progressively happening and that i was over compensating the lack of sway bar performance with the Struts by maxing them out....now that i have clearly identified the problem...at this point i don't believe the struts are bad anymore....
I can get some adjustable end links as long as they can compensate for my problem efficiently, but what if i find myself adjusting after a week or two...or what if i run out of adjustment....just so that you know...my car just turned 100,000 miles last week and is almost 4 and a half years old (built in january of 05)
the bushings may be gone....maybe if i am actually able to solve the problem....others who are suffering from the same problem will have a solution.
under the rear of the car with the rear tires of the ground i have NO preload.....wonder if i can adjust the endlinks temporarily to a position that will give me preload in the rear....it would be in the wrong hole, but it just might work just to experiment with it....
in the end....I may have to install a bushing kit along with the endlinks.
what do you think?
06-01-2009 | 08:31 PM
#65
You can alway's pull the end links off, zip tie the sway bar up and out of the way so it doesn't come into contract with anything and do a ride and drive. No you won't have the bars influence, but neither will the end links be at play either. IMO, I don't see the end links as a contributing factor.
http://www.powergridinc.com/swaybar.asp
http://www.powergridinc.com/swaybar.asp
06-01-2009 | 08:41 PM
#66
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Inland Empire
I think the worn out bushings are causing the endlinks to lose preload....
I have some more experimenting to do....Z1 said he had the nismo hard bushing kit installed long ago with way less miles than i had with ill effects on the old bushings.
seriously...something is going on that is affecting the way the sway bars handle.....the endlinks connect the sways to the suspension....but if i have sloppy bushings that LOOK ok but are not.....this may be the problem also....
just cant wait to get to the weekend so i can get some more wrench time in....work during the week kills any chance of playtime on the car...SIGH!
I have some more experimenting to do....Z1 said he had the nismo hard bushing kit installed long ago with way less miles than i had with ill effects on the old bushings.
seriously...something is going on that is affecting the way the sway bars handle.....the endlinks connect the sways to the suspension....but if i have sloppy bushings that LOOK ok but are not.....this may be the problem also....
just cant wait to get to the weekend so i can get some more wrench time in....work during the week kills any chance of playtime on the car...SIGH!
06-02-2009 | 11:43 AM
#67
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 204
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From: Inland Empire
Had a nissan mechanic drive it today.....New tokico d-specs are bad......endlinks...bushings....everything else was fine.....
I knew the valving was just not up to snuff.....but to have ALL 4 go bad quickly tells me that it's not even worth the warranty since it will happen again.
I knew the valving was just not up to snuff.....but to have ALL 4 go bad quickly tells me that it's not even worth the warranty since it will happen again.
06-03-2009 | 07:01 AM
#68
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Orlando
Had a nissan mechanic drive it today.....New tokico d-specs are bad......endlinks...bushings....everything else was fine.....
I knew the valving was just not up to snuff.....but to have ALL 4 go bad quickly tells me that it's not even worth the warranty since it will happen again.
I knew the valving was just not up to snuff.....but to have ALL 4 go bad quickly tells me that it's not even worth the warranty since it will happen again.
BOOOOOO to Tokico!!!!!!
Get those BC's bro, they wont let you down
06-03-2009 | 04:03 PM
#69
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 204
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From: Inland Empire
06-04-2009 | 04:22 AM
#70
I'd frankly be more concerned how you managed to kill, or get, 2 "bad" sets of shocks, back to back, in extremely short order. That in and of itself tells me the issue is something else, but that's just a loose hypothesis. Not to mention how a tech is able to determine a shock is bad without removing it from the car, and how bushings are good, by simply driving the car around the block. My car drove perfectly fine when both inner and outer lower control arm bushings were torn. My car also drove perfectly fine, for well over a year, when my endlinks were completely done (except for the clunking at low speed over rough pavement).
What could it be? Who knows, I can't even hazard a guess because I am not there, but I think someone who understands Z suspensions, both from a stock design point, as well as being familiar with various aftermarket options, should be looking at the car.
What could it be? Who knows, I can't even hazard a guess because I am not there, but I think someone who understands Z suspensions, both from a stock design point, as well as being familiar with various aftermarket options, should be looking at the car.
06-04-2009 | 09:05 PM
#71
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Inland Empire
I'd frankly be more concerned how you managed to kill, or get, 2 "bad" sets of shocks, back to back, in extremely short order. That in and of itself tells me the issue is something else, but that's just a loose hypothesis. Not to mention how a tech is able to determine a shock is bad without removing it from the car, and how bushings are good, by simply driving the car around the block. My car drove perfectly fine when both inner and outer lower control arm bushings were torn. My car also drove perfectly fine, for well over a year, when my endlinks were completely done (except for the clunking at low speed over rough pavement).
What could it be? Who knows, I can't even hazard a guess because I am not there, but I think someone who understands Z suspensions, both from a stock design point, as well as being familiar with various aftermarket options, should be looking at the car.
What could it be? Who knows, I can't even hazard a guess because I am not there, but I think someone who understands Z suspensions, both from a stock design point, as well as being familiar with various aftermarket options, should be looking at the car.
but i am making progress
I knew it had something to do with the sways...
On a stock Z with hotchkis sways...they recommend to go with 3rd hole up front and softest in the rear, but what if you have a staggered setup?...I should have listened when some peepz suggested 3rd hole up front and middle in the rear......
the car felt loose in the rear affecting the handling....and after EXTENSIVE DRIVING....here is what i did.....simply change the rear bar to the middle setting and went for a drive...
DAM the car was immediately planted in the rear....made a 80% difference in handling!!!!! MAJOR progress!!!! i need the rear to stay exactly where it is at while stiffening up the front somehow.....I may stagger the fronts after a ride around the block.....so i put my RS-R springs back in the rear with the cut springmounts.....i am about to take it for a test drive.
I think i got it!!!!!
say....does offset have anything to do with the way my car is handling?
it MIGHT be a difference in either staggering the front swaybar or getting wheel spacers....Could my offset be causing a problem???the offset is pretty close to the stock 17's
anyone have experience in this????
NOTE: the rear swaybar setting has renewed my thinking into saying at this point the struts are fine......
i have 19 inch staggered wheels 245/35/19 and 275/35/19
stern ST-1 BEAST
offset is 32 in front and 35 in rear????....I COULD order H&R spacers from mynismo.com....not sure how much of a difference they would make
06-04-2009 | 10:21 PM
#72
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 204
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From: Inland Empire
Here are my sway bar settings.....
4th hole up front...(i am using PVC pipe spacers to take the slack out of the front sway bar in between the built in collar and the bushing)
I know this is probably abnormal.....some of you will be like WHAT!
just remember that my car has 100,000 mile on her.....bushings may not be exactly the same as they were...probably lost a little bit of their shape.....
plus I might have slightly worn endlinks....but i just replaced them last year.....
anyhow...on a NEWER Z some use the softest setting in the rear and the second hole up front....others use 3rd hole up front and second in the rear....i have to use 4th and 3rd......it sounds to me that as the Z ages you have to move up the sways a notch....most people have 0-60k miles on their Z
I guess i have higher milage than most folks do here....
I am willing to bet that if i got the hard bushing kit and some adjustable endlinks....that i would be using softer settings than I am now.....
My suggestion is to start at 3rd hole up front and softest in the rear.....if it is too stiff up front go softer up front....and visa versa....if you have high miles it will feel weak and sloppy (if you are on stock sways you WONT be able to compensate for anything!!!!!)...at this point i would just try 3rd 2nd and if thats not enough max it out at 4th 3rd.
every car is different.....and every car wears out differently....
OK; reason i went 4th 3rd is to compensate for the rear spring mount mod cut by a half an inch.
everything is cool now.....I might stagger the rear going with middle, hard.....i will try that tomorrow....it's really easy to change that.......if i don't like it....i will set the rear back to full hard...
going to take it to the mechanic tomorrow and tell him to test drive it and then say "IN YOUR FACE ****" OK...maybe i will leave the **** part out....
happy endings......
4th hole up front...(i am using PVC pipe spacers to take the slack out of the front sway bar in between the built in collar and the bushing)
I know this is probably abnormal.....some of you will be like WHAT!
just remember that my car has 100,000 mile on her.....bushings may not be exactly the same as they were...probably lost a little bit of their shape.....
plus I might have slightly worn endlinks....but i just replaced them last year.....
anyhow...on a NEWER Z some use the softest setting in the rear and the second hole up front....others use 3rd hole up front and second in the rear....i have to use 4th and 3rd......it sounds to me that as the Z ages you have to move up the sways a notch....most people have 0-60k miles on their Z
I guess i have higher milage than most folks do here....
I am willing to bet that if i got the hard bushing kit and some adjustable endlinks....that i would be using softer settings than I am now.....
My suggestion is to start at 3rd hole up front and softest in the rear.....if it is too stiff up front go softer up front....and visa versa....if you have high miles it will feel weak and sloppy (if you are on stock sways you WONT be able to compensate for anything!!!!!)...at this point i would just try 3rd 2nd and if thats not enough max it out at 4th 3rd.
every car is different.....and every car wears out differently....
OK; reason i went 4th 3rd is to compensate for the rear spring mount mod cut by a half an inch.
everything is cool now.....I might stagger the rear going with middle, hard.....i will try that tomorrow....it's really easy to change that.......if i don't like it....i will set the rear back to full hard...
going to take it to the mechanic tomorrow and tell him to test drive it and then say "IN YOUR FACE ****" OK...maybe i will leave the **** part out....
happy endings......
Last edited by danimaldaisy; 06-04-2009 at 10:29 PM.
06-04-2009 | 10:34 PM
#74
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 204
Likes: 0
From: Inland Empire
I'd frankly be more concerned how you managed to kill, or get, 2 "bad" sets of shocks, back to back, in extremely short order. That in and of itself tells me the issue is something else, but that's just a loose hypothesis. Not to mention how a tech is able to determine a shock is bad without removing it from the car, and how bushings are good, by simply driving the car around the block. My car drove perfectly fine when both inner and outer lower control arm bushings were torn. My car also drove perfectly fine, for well over a year, when my endlinks were completely done (except for the clunking at low speed over rough pavement).
What could it be? Who knows, I can't even hazard a guess because I am not there, but I think someone who understands Z suspensions, both from a stock design point, as well as being familiar with various aftermarket options, should be looking at the car.
What could it be? Who knows, I can't even hazard a guess because I am not there, but I think someone who understands Z suspensions, both from a stock design point, as well as being familiar with various aftermarket options, should be looking at the car.
much thanks to EVERYONE!
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