SPC Front Camber Arms the worst?
08-16-2009, 06:12 AM
#1
SPC Front Camber Arms the worst?
I have read some comments on the site that the SPC Front Camber Arms are the worst you can buy, I wanted to know what makes them the worst compared to SPL or Cusco. I am shopping for front camber arms but don't want to spend a ton of money. What would be the best front camber kit for the money?
Last edited by Diesel350; 08-16-2009 at 12:41 PM.
08-16-2009, 04:27 PM
#5
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What are you goals? Race car , trackday car , just want neg camber for stupid offset and mega stretch ?
08-16-2009, 05:31 PM
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I am in the same boat as you. I hear good and bad things about the SPC front camber arms. I looked at the SPL but they would be overkill unless you are planning on some serious track time. The cusco are meant more for running negative camber from what I have found out. Seems a lot of people max out the positive camber trying to get the car back in spec.
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08-16-2009, 05:55 PM
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The only issue i have read about is the abs relocation bracket. That is only if you choose to install the spacer between the hub and steering knuckle.
SPC did have another issue with their design. The castellated nut that mates with the ball joint was not flanged. They claimed that there a few cases where the nut had actually pulled through the steering knuckle assembly. SPC did send out washers to correct this problem, or you could reuse the oem flanged nut.
SPC did have another issue with their design. The castellated nut that mates with the ball joint was not flanged. They claimed that there a few cases where the nut had actually pulled through the steering knuckle assembly. SPC did send out washers to correct this problem, or you could reuse the oem flanged nut.
08-16-2009, 10:32 PM
#9
cusco a arms are somewhat limited by the amount of negative camber you can run from factory. you have to modify the slots in which the pivot joint sides/slides, from this image, remove the six silver bolts, shave the rounded part closes to the straight edge and slide the whole piece inward to get more negative..
the rubber around the joint:
tends cracks, and you might want to get a better cover for dust / road grime protection.
they are very easy to adjust at the track, and relatively inexpensive. i've used them for several years now and i have no complaints.
the SPLs are very very nice. i would upgrade to those if i didnt have the cusco ones already.
the rubber around the joint:
tends cracks, and you might want to get a better cover for dust / road grime protection.
they are very easy to adjust at the track, and relatively inexpensive. i've used them for several years now and i have no complaints.
the SPLs are very very nice. i would upgrade to those if i didnt have the cusco ones already.
08-17-2009, 09:37 AM
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Since all you want is to bring it back to factory specs, the SPC will work fine for you.
Also consider Ksports. i have them and they are a very nice piece. My only complaint is the paint on them is not very durable.
Also consider Ksports. i have them and they are a very nice piece. My only complaint is the paint on them is not very durable.
08-17-2009, 10:28 AM
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SPC is the only arm that offers more than ~1 degree of positive correction without fenderwell modification due to the spacers that are included. Those are what a majority of people have trouble with, but if you need more than 1 degree of correction, than SPC is the only one that can provide it. The actual arm is somewhat heavy and has had some clearance issues on very low cars or softer than stock springrates, but they are far from the worst kit out there. A few others come to mind like kinetix etc. IMO, the best setup would be SPL arms with the SPC spacers for the widest range in adjustability
08-18-2009, 04:02 AM
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cusco a arms are somewhat limited by the amount of negative camber you can run from factory. you have to modify the slots in which the pivot joint sides/slides, from this image, remove the six silver bolts, shave the rounded part closes to the straight edge and slide the whole piece inward to get more negative..
the rubber around the joint:
tends cracks, and you might want to get a better cover for dust / road grime protection.
they are very easy to adjust at the track, and relatively inexpensive. i've used them for several years now and i have no complaints.
the SPLs are very very nice. i would upgrade to those if i didnt have the cusco ones already.
the rubber around the joint:
tends cracks, and you might want to get a better cover for dust / road grime protection.
they are very easy to adjust at the track, and relatively inexpensive. i've used them for several years now and i have no complaints.
the SPLs are very very nice. i would upgrade to those if i didnt have the cusco ones already.
Where exactly are you trimming the "straight side"??? So you mean closest to the car side?
-J
08-18-2009, 08:51 AM
#19
use a high speed rounding tool to arc out the rounded edge.. you'll destroy the two most inner bolt holes but that's ok. the plate is held in on the sides anyway. to shove the plate with the joint as far in as it can go.. (you can even flip/insert the plate the other way, i think one side is even shorter than the other...
i modified it to get me around -3.5.. feels good on the turns w/ the r888s.