Asian Invasian

iTrader: (31)

I just had an alignment done on my Z.. I am not really knowledgeable on the subject some am wondering if some people could chime in for me.

My specs are below. Do I need to get any kind of camber or toe kit so my tires wont wear? I noticed they couldn't fix the rear right into spec..

I want my tires to last this time.

EDIT: The bottom right is not rear left, its rear right.. sorry.

quakerroatmeal

iTrader: (9)

You'll be having some inner camber wear most likely if you want to fix that you'll need rear camber kit..

Asian Invasian

iTrader: (31)

I understand that I would need to get a camber kit to fix it.. my question is: Is this off by enough to get the kit? The kit is only about 180 dollars and I can get it realigned for free. I just want to make sure that its a big enough deal.

Asian Invasian

iTrader: (31)

Anyone else want to chime in?

davidv

iTrader: (2)

That's a good street set-up. If you are happy with handling leave it alone. If you want quicker handling response, you can get more aggressive with toe and camber.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Here ya go bud, this was my last alignment. It shows OEM specs in the middle so you can see what you should be at.

Your specs should be somewhere between the MIN and MAX specs in the middle of my page.



Hope this helps.

Asian Invasian

iTrader: (31)

Thanks for the response. I am happy with performance. I am mainly interested in my tires lasting as long as possible.

Asian Invasian

iTrader: (31)

Looks like my rear right is just outside of the specified -2.1.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Ya, but your toe being out is what is more important for tire wear. Im assuming since it says you have 2 rear lefts, the one on the right is the right side.

Get that sucker back below .10 degrees. And you rear left was WWWAAAAYY out of spec before alignment. Im guessing "Actual" means after the alignment??

If so, they didnt get your right rear toe done to spec.

Asian Invasian

iTrader: (31)

Yes actual is after. They had the spec as 0.06 to 0.14? Are these the old specs? Mine is only 0.11 is that 0.01 a big enough deal to go get it redone?

davidv

iTrader: (2)

We can find you some performance long lasting tires.

Keep in mind the swap. Estimate the life of the tire. Swap at half the life.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Not too sure about your shops specs, but regardless just leave it, i dont think .01 matters too much.

Either way, your rear being at .6 was prob why you had excessive wear before the alignment.

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

If you want to absolutely minimize tire wear, get a rear camber kit and dial it down to the -1.1 range, which is the minimum per factory specs. Your handling at this spec rear camber will be fine for your needs from the sound of it.

Also, take rear toe to the minimum range (0.05). You are now at the outside of the factory range, which is best for straight line stability (good for a daily driven performance car), but worse for tire wear. If you dial down the toe, you'll still have good straight line stability and feather the rears less (however negligible the amount might be).

Keep in mind a heavy right foot is the greatest determinant of rear tire wear

SPEEDZY

My 08 base was feathering the inside edges of the front tires at 4000 miles. noisy due to feathering.front camber was -.09 left and- 1.4 right. Toe was 0.03 degrees total toe.Rears wearing fine at camber -1.3 left and -1.2 right. Rear total toe at 0.10 degrees. Bought front upper arms from k-sport and set front camber to -0.2 camber front both sides and toe to 0.03 degrees total front.No more tire wear at 7,950 miles and handles great on the street.Tires were replaced at time of alignment. Front camber was to aggressive for daily driving for maximim tire wear,even at -0.9 If you don't get the camber closer to the positive end of the spec then I garantee you will feather tires especially the front. Although, if you are going to track the car then I would keep the camber at the most negative end of the spec for handling. I don't track my car, but if i did you bet I would readjust the camber for maximim cornering efficiency. Easily done with my new control arms.

bomber

iTrader: (1)

Tagging for reference

NismoZ_840

iTrader: (3)

Does the out of spec SAI on the right of concern? From what I understand SAI isn't adjustable, just a resulting geometery. Thanks!

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Be carefull about bringing in settings that work in auto-x and road racing. If you don't have R-comps, going higher and higher on camber setttings won't pay back the performance bottom line on the street, you'll just wear out your tires sooner on the insides and you'l have less traction for accelleration and braking. I have a tire pyrometer and higher settings on the street had less favorable temp spreads vs lessor settings. If I didn't do that, I still be on those high settings.

Asian Invasian

iTrader: (31)

up for more opinions.

1cockyZ

iTrader: (46)

How bout letting people know where your rear adjusters are so we can answer this question accurately. Go under the back of your car and take pictures of all 4 eccentric adjusters and post them up. Then we can look at your alignment and then your adjusters and let you know if you really need a camber kit. Most techs doing alignments on these cars I wouldn't let check my oil. So take the 4 pics and post them up and label them. Because if you're RR toe link isn't maxed out it definately can have less camber.

bimmertech

iTrader: (10)

this is purely my opinion on what works for my car/setup.

front:
camber--slightly past -2, around -2.3
toe--straight up 0 on both sides

rear:
camber--right at -2
toe--4 minutes of positive toe

the only time i note excessive tire wear is if i start sliding my car around. imo regarding your setup, there is too much toe-in on both axles. i would also try and even out the camber in the rear--try setting the left rear to the same as the right rear. and most importantly is make sure they are weighting the drivers seat with your body weight and you have about 3/4 of a tank of gas.