info from those lowered 1.25" to 1.5"...camber arms questions
#24
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Correct statement for possibly needing the rear kit, not so much the front.
Rears tend to need the kit more than fronts, but with a 1.2+ drop on the fronts, you will prob need the kit up front.
Nissan suggests .8 or lower you might see alignment spec issues, hence why the Nismo suspension goes to .8 drop.
Just as Adam says, its totally a case by case basis. If your drop is 1.2 rear and 1 up front, you'll most likely need rears but possibly not fronts. If your drop is 1.2 all around or lower, you'll most likely need front and rear kits.
My advice, get your drop and get rear kit right off the bat. Install both. Go in for alignment, and if they cant get front in spec go ahead and order front arms and get installed. Paying extra shipping is better than ordering something you dont need.
Rears tend to need the kit more than fronts, but with a 1.2+ drop on the fronts, you will prob need the kit up front.
Nissan suggests .8 or lower you might see alignment spec issues, hence why the Nismo suspension goes to .8 drop.
Just as Adam says, its totally a case by case basis. If your drop is 1.2 rear and 1 up front, you'll most likely need rears but possibly not fronts. If your drop is 1.2 all around or lower, you'll most likely need front and rear kits.
My advice, get your drop and get rear kit right off the bat. Install both. Go in for alignment, and if they cant get front in spec go ahead and order front arms and get installed. Paying extra shipping is better than ordering something you dont need.
and pay double the labor for install and alignment....if you really do need it.
#27
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well, i should say more of a fine tune adjust ability or easy to adjust without affecting camber, but who wants SPC over SPL when ABS crap also gets thrown in the mix............lets start here:
Okay, nearly all the upper control arms out there for the 350z are aimed to just fix camber.....camber only........mainly because "E.V.E.R.Y.O.N.E....wants to lower their Z... and NO ONE wants to eat up tires on their 20 inch rims...blah...blah...anywho.....
SPL is one of the only upper control arms that will do a more of a fine tuned "complete adjust ability" Camber and caster, corner balance, etc..
Now, this thread seems to be geared more to "do i need it......will this get my alignment in spec...." = normal daily driving it seems........no track mentioned???
Z1 (adam) is a racer or works with track Z's along with me and others would want SPL hands down as you can get the car aligned and adjusted completely.....
Now, this comparison is SPC and SPL...because the OP's original question was SPC versus SPL.......but look at many others out there and they are essentially designed EDIT* where the red circled area is camber only!!
SPC uses eccentric washer which makes camber and caster hard to adjust as its done at the same time from the same point.......shims are needed if your needing more agressive numbers and thats where it sucks cause 9 out of 10 times the abs threads are due to install error - but why have it! why deal with it, if you need those ranges, get SPL with no shims for those longer ranges.....
shims..shims suck.....spl's arms have a THREADED adjustable rod end.
SPC:
From their site:
SPC Performance's arm/shim kit is the first on the market to provide a substantial amount of positive camber change. It has more than enough camber and caster change to correct cars that have been lowered, or for vehicles used in drifting. These new arms allow for precise changes when fine tuning suspension alignment angles necessary when racing or drifting. The hub and caliper shims extend out the center of the wheel making it possible for the forged and fabricated arm to make up to 5 degrees total camber change and +/- 1 deg. of caster change. Using a sliding and rotating ball joint, techs can fine tune both camber and caster to save tires and improve your handling and tire to surface contact. The kit includes everything you need, including the ABS sensor bracket, shims, and arms for both sides of the vehicle. Fits G35 and 350Z applications.
dat sux - adjusting caster will affect camber and getting it right will be the suxor!
SPL:
Off-car adjustment of +/- 1 deg of caster can be set independently of camber
NOw the V2 spl's use shims but on camber only, which i think is baller because you turn the threaded bolts and get camber to spec, then you place shim in and tighten everything up......meaning, camber cant be moved! cant back spin, camber stays SET...plus you can get your car aligned with say x, y shim to a set number for street driving, then you can get your alignment set with X, Y , Z shim for a track setting, once you know which is which, you cna do this on your own at the track with out needing to get back on an alignment rack....you cant do that with SPC.
caster wouldnt be affected doing that with spl's arms. since the rod ends are back there and dont get touched when adjusting your street camber setting to your track camber setting the morning you show up on course. get it! thats a big plus!
Cusco: - because they were mentioned earlier on the thread as well...
CASTER:
For an decent explanation of caster - this is a decent article where the same rules apply - it is not 350z specific but you get what im saying - pay attention to the 2nd to last pic on page 1 of this link:
http://www.circletrack.com/howto/138...ber/index.html
NOW, all in all. If your not tracking your car and just don't wanna kill tires and don't care to get into tracking....sheeit........ebay $279.99 upper control arms will do for the daily driver Z....
I think a better thread would be:
1. Im considering X, Y or Z upper control arms.
2. I track my car? i daily drive only, i occaisionally will get out on a track??
3. Im lowered with X, Y or Z suspension
4. I have X, Y or Z size wheel tire set up..
QUESTIONS LIKE: What do you guys recommend so i dont spend money on this or that - kinda pointless - its a Z, gotta pay to play!!!
Sometimes you have to order rear and pay for install and alignment.....and then order front (if you need it) and pay for install and alignment.. (thus my mention of the firestone and NTB deals, cause it seemed it would help) if not, then its "what your willing to live with"
-J
Okay, nearly all the upper control arms out there for the 350z are aimed to just fix camber.....camber only........mainly because "E.V.E.R.Y.O.N.E....wants to lower their Z... and NO ONE wants to eat up tires on their 20 inch rims...blah...blah...anywho.....
SPL is one of the only upper control arms that will do a more of a fine tuned "complete adjust ability" Camber and caster, corner balance, etc..
Now, this thread seems to be geared more to "do i need it......will this get my alignment in spec...." = normal daily driving it seems........no track mentioned???
Z1 (adam) is a racer or works with track Z's along with me and others would want SPL hands down as you can get the car aligned and adjusted completely.....
Now, this comparison is SPC and SPL...because the OP's original question was SPC versus SPL.......but look at many others out there and they are essentially designed EDIT* where the red circled area is camber only!!
SPC uses eccentric washer which makes camber and caster hard to adjust as its done at the same time from the same point.......shims are needed if your needing more agressive numbers and thats where it sucks cause 9 out of 10 times the abs threads are due to install error - but why have it! why deal with it, if you need those ranges, get SPL with no shims for those longer ranges.....
shims..shims suck.....spl's arms have a THREADED adjustable rod end.
SPC:
From their site:
SPC Performance's arm/shim kit is the first on the market to provide a substantial amount of positive camber change. It has more than enough camber and caster change to correct cars that have been lowered, or for vehicles used in drifting. These new arms allow for precise changes when fine tuning suspension alignment angles necessary when racing or drifting. The hub and caliper shims extend out the center of the wheel making it possible for the forged and fabricated arm to make up to 5 degrees total camber change and +/- 1 deg. of caster change. Using a sliding and rotating ball joint, techs can fine tune both camber and caster to save tires and improve your handling and tire to surface contact. The kit includes everything you need, including the ABS sensor bracket, shims, and arms for both sides of the vehicle. Fits G35 and 350Z applications.
dat sux - adjusting caster will affect camber and getting it right will be the suxor!
SPL:
Off-car adjustment of +/- 1 deg of caster can be set independently of camber
NOw the V2 spl's use shims but on camber only, which i think is baller because you turn the threaded bolts and get camber to spec, then you place shim in and tighten everything up......meaning, camber cant be moved! cant back spin, camber stays SET...plus you can get your car aligned with say x, y shim to a set number for street driving, then you can get your alignment set with X, Y , Z shim for a track setting, once you know which is which, you cna do this on your own at the track with out needing to get back on an alignment rack....you cant do that with SPC.
caster wouldnt be affected doing that with spl's arms. since the rod ends are back there and dont get touched when adjusting your street camber setting to your track camber setting the morning you show up on course. get it! thats a big plus!
Cusco: - because they were mentioned earlier on the thread as well...
CASTER:
For an decent explanation of caster - this is a decent article where the same rules apply - it is not 350z specific but you get what im saying - pay attention to the 2nd to last pic on page 1 of this link:
http://www.circletrack.com/howto/138...ber/index.html
NOW, all in all. If your not tracking your car and just don't wanna kill tires and don't care to get into tracking....sheeit........ebay $279.99 upper control arms will do for the daily driver Z....
I think a better thread would be:
1. Im considering X, Y or Z upper control arms.
2. I track my car? i daily drive only, i occaisionally will get out on a track??
3. Im lowered with X, Y or Z suspension
4. I have X, Y or Z size wheel tire set up..
QUESTIONS LIKE: What do you guys recommend so i dont spend money on this or that - kinda pointless - its a Z, gotta pay to play!!!
Sometimes you have to order rear and pay for install and alignment.....and then order front (if you need it) and pay for install and alignment.. (thus my mention of the firestone and NTB deals, cause it seemed it would help) if not, then its "what your willing to live with"
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 01-23-2010 at 10:50 AM.
#30
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[QUOTE=Sleepy79;7864538]Unless I am missing something, to change caster you will have to remove the arm, and rotate the rod end and reinstall the arm. Anyone that has removed the A-arm knows that getting the bolts out can be tricky with the springs in the way.
anyone who needs a set of arms at this level should really have coilovers, and with those installed, the arm can be installed/uninstalled without issue. Not hard to get to at all
Unless of course you're one of the many that end up with an ABS light, or who can't even run the arms at full position because they hit the fender liner. Who wants to deal with such nuisances on such an otherwise simple part? I am a big fan of SPC's parts and we use them on tons of cars, but these arms missed the mark big time IMHO
anyone who needs a set of arms at this level should really have coilovers, and with those installed, the arm can be installed/uninstalled without issue. Not hard to get to at all
Unless of course you're one of the many that end up with an ABS light, or who can't even run the arms at full position because they hit the fender liner. Who wants to deal with such nuisances on such an otherwise simple part? I am a big fan of SPC's parts and we use them on tons of cars, but these arms missed the mark big time IMHO
#31
When i started this thread, although i had read many others, i didnt know all the info to give for my situation. Some times you dont know enough to begin asking the right questions. I think i might be getting close though..
so here is the re statement for my original question
1. Im considering upper control arms. SPC, SPL, Cusco
2. I do not track my car. Only spirited driving at most.
3. Im lowered with Stance GR+ Coilovers -1.25" F/R from stock Nismo height, might go down to -1.5" but probably not.
4. wheel/tire set up...
Front 245/40/18
Rear 265/35/19
when i get new tires i will probably be going with 275/35/19 in the rear because it will be a little fatter and there is more available in that size for a better price.
wheels are the 07-08 Nismo Rays wheels. cant remeber the size but i know it is on here somewhere.
My goal is to get my camber and toe back in spec the easiest way possible with the least amount of headache/regret.
Like the coilovers i got, i want something that will give me what i want that wont break the bank, but still be quality. I could have gotten a cheaper coilover, but i could have gotten better. i am happy with what i got. I want my a-arms to fit in this same category.
PROS
Cusco - $price$
SPC - $price$, fine adjustability of camber, some caster adjustment
SPL - the best i have seen hands down
CONS
Cusco - enough + adjustment?, availability, blue color(clashes, haha..)
SPC - hitting inside fender?, noisy?, whereout a-arms bushings?, camber adjustment slipping?
SPL - $price$
If i were to get the SPC, i would not be using the spacers shims, i dont want to muck with that. my main question about that is can enough + camber be gained without using the shims????
i have read a few threads from people that have had too many issues with the SPC arms but some have no problem.
if i could be sure that there would be no noise, hitting, and enough adjustment with the SPC arms, that is probably the way i would go.
BUT...
i have heard nothing but good things about SPL arms, and sometimes it is worth the extra money not to deal with headaches. its only ~ extra per arm then the others i am considering.
so here is the re statement for my original question
1. Im considering upper control arms. SPC, SPL, Cusco
2. I do not track my car. Only spirited driving at most.
3. Im lowered with Stance GR+ Coilovers -1.25" F/R from stock Nismo height, might go down to -1.5" but probably not.
4. wheel/tire set up...
Front 245/40/18
Rear 265/35/19
when i get new tires i will probably be going with 275/35/19 in the rear because it will be a little fatter and there is more available in that size for a better price.
wheels are the 07-08 Nismo Rays wheels. cant remeber the size but i know it is on here somewhere.
My goal is to get my camber and toe back in spec the easiest way possible with the least amount of headache/regret.
Like the coilovers i got, i want something that will give me what i want that wont break the bank, but still be quality. I could have gotten a cheaper coilover, but i could have gotten better. i am happy with what i got. I want my a-arms to fit in this same category.
PROS
Cusco - $price$
SPC - $price$, fine adjustability of camber, some caster adjustment
SPL - the best i have seen hands down
CONS
Cusco - enough + adjustment?, availability, blue color(clashes, haha..)
SPC - hitting inside fender?, noisy?, whereout a-arms bushings?, camber adjustment slipping?
SPL - $price$
If i were to get the SPC, i would not be using the spacers shims, i dont want to muck with that. my main question about that is can enough + camber be gained without using the shims????
i have read a few threads from people that have had too many issues with the SPC arms but some have no problem.
if i could be sure that there would be no noise, hitting, and enough adjustment with the SPC arms, that is probably the way i would go.
BUT...
i have heard nothing but good things about SPL arms, and sometimes it is worth the extra money not to deal with headaches. its only ~ extra per arm then the others i am considering.
#32
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When i started this thread, although i had read many others, i didnt know all the info to give for my situation. Some times you dont know enough to begin asking the right questions. I think i might be getting close though..
so here is the re statement for my original question
1. Im considering upper control arms. SPC, SPL, Cusco
2. I do not track my car. Only spirited driving at most.
3. Im lowered with Stance GR+ Coilovers -1.25" F/R from stock Nismo height, might go down to -1.5" but probably not.
4. wheel/tire set up...
Front 245/40/18
Rear 265/35/19
when i get new tires i will probably be going with 275/35/19 in the rear because it will be a little fatter and there is more available in that size for a better price.
wheels are the 07-08 Nismo Rays wheels. cant remember the size but i know it is on here somewhere.
My goal is to get my camber and toe back in spec the easiest way possible with the least amount of headache/regret.
Like the coilovers i got, i want something that will give me what i want that wont break the bank, but still be quality. I could have gotten a cheaper coilover, but i could have gotten better. i am happy with what i got. I want my a-arms to fit in this same category.
PROS
Cusco - $price$
SPC - $price$, fine adjustability of camber, some caster adjustment
SPL - the best i have seen hands down
CONS
Cusco - enough + adjustment?, availability, blue color(clashes , haha..)
SPC - hitting inside fender?, noisy?, whereout a-arms bushings?, camber adjustment slipping?
SPL - $price$
If i were to get the SPC, i would not be using the spacers shims, i dont want to muck with that. my main question about that is can enough + camber be gained without using the shims????
i have read a few threads from people that have had too many issues with the SPC arms but some have no problem.
if i could be sure that there would be no noise, hitting, and enough adjustment with the SPC arms, that is probably the way i would go.
BUT...
i have heard nothing but good things about SPL arms, and sometimes it is worth the extra money not to deal with headaches. its only ~ extra per arm then the others i am considering.
so here is the re statement for my original question
1. Im considering upper control arms. SPC, SPL, Cusco
2. I do not track my car. Only spirited driving at most.
3. Im lowered with Stance GR+ Coilovers -1.25" F/R from stock Nismo height, might go down to -1.5" but probably not.
4. wheel/tire set up...
Front 245/40/18
Rear 265/35/19
when i get new tires i will probably be going with 275/35/19 in the rear because it will be a little fatter and there is more available in that size for a better price.
wheels are the 07-08 Nismo Rays wheels. cant remember the size but i know it is on here somewhere.
My goal is to get my camber and toe back in spec the easiest way possible with the least amount of headache/regret.
Like the coilovers i got, i want something that will give me what i want that wont break the bank, but still be quality. I could have gotten a cheaper coilover, but i could have gotten better. i am happy with what i got. I want my a-arms to fit in this same category.
PROS
Cusco - $price$
SPC - $price$, fine adjustability of camber, some caster adjustment
SPL - the best i have seen hands down
CONS
Cusco - enough + adjustment?, availability, blue color(clashes , haha..)
SPC - hitting inside fender?, noisy?, whereout a-arms bushings?, camber adjustment slipping?
SPL - $price$
If i were to get the SPC, i would not be using the spacers shims, i dont want to muck with that. my main question about that is can enough + camber be gained without using the shims????
i have read a few threads from people that have had too many issues with the SPC arms but some have no problem.
if i could be sure that there would be no noise, hitting, and enough adjustment with the SPC arms, that is probably the way i would go.
BUT...
i have heard nothing but good things about SPL arms, and sometimes it is worth the extra money not to deal with headaches. its only ~ extra per arm then the others i am considering.
with all that you mentioned (you can see my bolding and coloring in your post)
dude honestly with how you use your car (no track), drop height and all things considered your most likely fine with Cusco or SPC with out shims....and if you wanna spend the money, but I will be the first to say, you don't need to spend big money, is on SPL's for "MY GOAL IS".............if you get spl, more power to you....rock on..but like sleepy79, i agree they are more for the track oriented, and seems for you overkill...
I would think from here you have a great amount of info and seems u have gained enough knowledge to make a decision...
I agree with you op in that you dont wanna have to hassle with it or run into issues later, but thats inevitable with MOD'n a car..........when i say "you gotta pay to play" im not only talking money buddy....
it is what it is....
I love working on cars, but im also there complaining when i have to.............lol funny isnt it....
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 10-24-2009 at 05:04 AM.
#33
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So the alignment process takes a big longer........oh well, its gonna be like that with SPC or SPL.......it is what it is..but you get where you want to be ==== is the end result....
IMHO, any arm, should be professional installed/aligned......
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 10-24-2009 at 06:58 AM.
#34
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I am just posting to clarify some technical details about the mechanics of the adjustment system on our arms...
By using combinations of shims, you can hit any desired camber setting to within 0.25deg. This provides enough accuracy for any alignment, there is no benefit to set your camber more accurately than that; there will be no discernable difference in tire wear, temperature, grip, etc.
Also consider that no alignment tech is going to be able to slide a ball joint to within 0.1deg (~0.03 inch) and tighten it precisely in position, and no alignment machine is going to be calibrated accurately to below 0.1deg. So "infinite" precision is more in theory than in practice.
Every 0.3" of thread = 1 deg of caster, this is documented in our instructions. So a good alignment tech would just need to unbolt the arm once to set the caster.
We find that the caster setting is something that most people do not adjust, or if they do it is done once and that's it. What our arms are really designed to do is to allow the end user the ability to easily and repeatably adjust their camber for track vs. street use. So the car can be aligned once, and if you want to dial in more negative camber on the track, or dial in more positive camber for the street, you can simply re-arrange the shims to change your camber in precise 0.5deg increments, without affecting your caster or toe (toe change is extremely small), so there is no need to get the car aligned every time. This is not possible to do on a sliding ball joint with repeatability or accuracy.
Also consider that no alignment tech is going to be able to slide a ball joint to within 0.1deg (~0.03 inch) and tighten it precisely in position, and no alignment machine is going to be calibrated accurately to below 0.1deg. So "infinite" precision is more in theory than in practice.
We find that the caster setting is something that most people do not adjust, or if they do it is done once and that's it. What our arms are really designed to do is to allow the end user the ability to easily and repeatably adjust their camber for track vs. street use. So the car can be aligned once, and if you want to dial in more negative camber on the track, or dial in more positive camber for the street, you can simply re-arrange the shims to change your camber in precise 0.5deg increments, without affecting your caster or toe (toe change is extremely small), so there is no need to get the car aligned every time. This is not possible to do on a sliding ball joint with repeatability or accuracy.
Last edited by kuah@splparts.com; 10-24-2009 at 10:18 AM.
#35
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I am just posting to clarify some technical details about the mechanics of the adjustment system on our arms...
By using combinations of shims, you can hit any desired camber setting to within 0.25deg. This provides enough accuracy for any alignment, there is no benefit to set your camber more accurately than that; there will be no discernable difference in tire wear, temperature, grip, etc.
By using combinations of shims, you can hit any desired camber setting to within 0.25deg. This provides enough accuracy for any alignment, there is no benefit to set your camber more accurately than that; there will be no discernable difference in tire wear, temperature, grip, etc.
Also consider that no alignment tech is going to be able to slide a ball joint to within 0.1deg (~0.03 inch) and tighten it precisely in position, and no alignment machine is going to be calibrated accurately to below 0.1deg. So "infinite" precision is more in theory than in practice.
We find that the caster setting is something that most people do not adjust, or if they do it is done once and that's it. What our arms are really designed to do is to allow the end user the ability to easily and repeatably adjust their camber for track vs. street use. So the car can be aligned once, and if you want to dial in more negative camber on the track, or dial in more positive camber for the street, you can simply re-arrange the shims to change your camber in precise 0.5deg increments, without affecting your caster or toe (toe change is extremely small), so there is no need to get the car aligned every time. This is not possible to do on a sliding ball joint with repeatability or accuracy.
being able to switch back and forth (that easily - as in mechanically being able to do it yourself - move shims) is worth the money IMHO..
Sure with a set of say "cusco" arms you can mark with a sharpie - where on the slots - what camber setting is what, but how accurate is that??????? SHIMS DON'T MOVE so thats where spl rocks..
I don't daily my car, but i would love to occasionally take it to work, etc....having SPL's adjust abilty is what makes them better - for me.....
different recipes for different people..
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 11-05-2009 at 06:17 AM.
#37
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http://www.splparts.com/doc/SPLFUAZ33v2.pdf
They are pre-set to OEM caster (both ends fully threaded in) as shipped.
#38
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so with all said an done where are you guys purchasing the latest cusco control arms...
just ordered my STANCE GR+ PRO w/SSD going all the way down...
I want my car to be useless
just ordered my STANCE GR+ PRO w/SSD going all the way down...
I want my car to be useless
#39
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i just got my SPL v2 camber arms and rear camber arms (car is mostly driven to and on the track).
can't wait to see how easy it is to install the shims and or take them out at the track.
can't wait to see how easy it is to install the shims and or take them out at the track.