info from those lowered 1.25" to 1.5"...camber arms questions
#41
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Perhaps you are thinking of other cars or on the rear suspension. On the front suspension of the 350Z, the lower arm to tie rod pivot points are very close vs. the lower arm to upper arm pivot points. My calculations give about 0.009" of toe change for every 0.5deg of camber change.
#42
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wow. thats impressive. i'm putting on the arms tonight and a suspension on it later this week. Can't wait!
On a side note....I've never done an alignment on a Z before so you're right in that regard.
On a side note....I've never done an alignment on a Z before so you're right in that regard.
Last edited by sektor 11; 11-11-2009 at 05:36 AM.
#43
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wow where was this thread 6 months ago when I purchase camber arms. I went with the SPL and love them. I'm dropped about 2 inches and had -4 degrees of camber prior to arms and alignment. I'm now at -2.5 in the rear and my toe is almost to spec. I am however having issues with caster.
#44
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1.5" drop made my car way off.
i have kinetix front camber arms and they worked great at getting the camber back in alignment. I use camber arms and toe bolts for the rear to keep it aligned.
i have kinetix front camber arms and they worked great at getting the camber back in alignment. I use camber arms and toe bolts for the rear to keep it aligned.
#45
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wow where was this thread 6 months ago when I purchase camber arms. I went with the SPL and love them. I'm dropped about 2 inches and had -4 degrees of camber prior to arms and alignment. I'm now at -2.5 in the rear and my toe is almost to spec. I am however having issues with caster.
What issues? Im guessing that prior to the arms if you were at -4, then your lowered really low.....with that the 72055 toe bolt isn't gonna get you enough...
and you may need an adjustable front traction arm......the 3rd arm down there at the rear, the one pointing fwd..
can you give us more info on your set up? pics? how low are you?
-J
#46
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Your talking rear only right?
What issues? Im guessing that prior to the arms if you were at -4, then your lowered really low.....with that the 72055 toe bolt isn't gonna get you enough...
and you may need an adjustable front traction arm......the 3rd arm down there at the rear, the one pointing fwd..
can you give us more info on your set up? pics? how low are you?
-J
What issues? Im guessing that prior to the arms if you were at -4, then your lowered really low.....with that the 72055 toe bolt isn't gonna get you enough...
and you may need an adjustable front traction arm......the 3rd arm down there at the rear, the one pointing fwd..
can you give us more info on your set up? pics? how low are you?
-J
I have no clue how much my current drop is but my car is pretty low. rear camber went from -4.2 to -2.2 thanks to the arms and my toe is within spec. I'm no suspension pro so this has been a learning experience for me.
#47
UPDATE FINALLY!!!!
So today i finally got the time to install my spc rear camber arms and toe bolts and i also went to get an alignment. all together it took about 3 hrs to install the camber kit and bolts. here are a few pics of my Z on the rack ans my final numbers. i stood by her the whole time to make sure she wasnt abused during the process. i had to make the tech put in a seat cover, but besides that it all went great. it looks like i might be needing the front upper arms in the futue to get back in spec up front, but i have put almost 1000 miles on since the drop and the front tires still look fine for wear pattern.
i had to bring along some boards to help get her on the lift.
a couple on the rack
i sat in the front seat to make sure the steering wheel stayed straight while the front was being adjusted, it seemed like a good photo op.
here are my final numbers. the toe in the rear has no more adjustment, but it is pretty close to spec.
So today i finally got the time to install my spc rear camber arms and toe bolts and i also went to get an alignment. all together it took about 3 hrs to install the camber kit and bolts. here are a few pics of my Z on the rack ans my final numbers. i stood by her the whole time to make sure she wasnt abused during the process. i had to make the tech put in a seat cover, but besides that it all went great. it looks like i might be needing the front upper arms in the futue to get back in spec up front, but i have put almost 1000 miles on since the drop and the front tires still look fine for wear pattern.
i had to bring along some boards to help get her on the lift.
a couple on the rack
i sat in the front seat to make sure the steering wheel stayed straight while the front was being adjusted, it seemed like a good photo op.
here are my final numbers. the toe in the rear has no more adjustment, but it is pretty close to spec.
#48
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looks like you have my same caster problem. your gonna hate yourself when you have to buy new front tires every 6 months.
I would also pull the rear camber out. your toe would be much closer to spec. I'm assuming you plan on getting a camber kit for the front?
I would also pull the rear camber out. your toe would be much closer to spec. I'm assuming you plan on getting a camber kit for the front?
#52
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Perhaps you are thinking of other cars or on the rear suspension. On the front suspension of the 350Z, the lower arm to tie rod pivot points are very close vs. the lower arm to upper arm pivot points. My calculations give about 0.009" of toe change for every 0.5deg of camber change.
If both the inner rod ends move by 0.2", 0.5 degree of of camber is changed. What happens when only ONE of the inner rod is changed (during caster adjustment), how much would camber change?
EDIT: NEVER MIND. You already stated camber and caster are independent. Awesome!
Last edited by 2fasst; 02-04-2011 at 07:11 AM.
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