I just installed and mildly tuned my bc coilover. omfg its like a gt class! But in the rear I have -1.6 and -2.5 of negative camber. I got spl contol arms and thats the best they could do. I want -1 to -.5. What companys offer contol arms that effective. why is this happening?

 

so your saying you have a rear adjustable camber arms? what about the toe bolt and elongating the toe hole or do you have the spl midlink replacement ??

we need more info or pics of what you have??

if so, your alignment shop bites.....

-J

 

Why would you want -0.5 to -1 ? Especially if you just installed coilovers, you installed coilovers to make your car handle better right? -1.4 would be the minimum i would run.

 

i have the spc camber toe control arm. my bad for the misspell. but these are the specs.Rear Adjustment range: Camber ±4.00 degree Toe ±3.00 degree
Installation time: .6 hr/sidehttp://http://www.spcalignment.com/P...d2=72050&cmd3=

 

okay you have spc parts......not spl.. correct??

this one: http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...d2=72050&cmd3=

did the shop elongate the toe bolt hole location?

with those products a good alignment shop and get you within alignment...

my thoughts are that the camber arm bottomed out, so they need to remove the bolt turn the rod end a few times then put the bolt back through..

either way, if you have those products in the rear with the toe bolt slot elongated a good alignment tech should be able to get you into spec..

-J

 

+1 i agree.....

-J

 

I bet they didnt do that! I tryed to get under and help but they woulnt let me. But thanks alot. I was thinking these parts should be more than capable.

 

Please take a pic of the camber/toe arm installed on your car for us, we can let you know if they are installed properly

 

yes...please do...post pics.....im guessing the rod ends have little "shank" exposed to where they cant turn the center section enough before it bottoms out?

-J

 

ya the rod ends have little shank exposed.Im gona go yell at them cuz I told them how to tune it, and they said they "followed my instructions to the piont". It was probly some high school drop out thank god i got the liftime allinment! but thanks you guys have been hella heplfull.

 

BTW how low did you go ? and please post the pic of the camber arm.

 

might wanna keep and eye on the toe. the toe bolt that came with my spc kit was crap, I went in to get my alignment fixed 3 times, on the third time the tech (btw, i went to speedware, a shop that builds racecars, not some firestone crap) figured out that the toe bolt was stretching, one of them snapped when he was loosening it. the bolt was supposed to be a grade 10.9, but it wasn't, just had 10.9 stamped on it. so they got me some real 10.9 bolts and machined it out to the proper shape. haven't had a problem since.

maybe it was a bad batch or something that i got, but the bolts i got from spc sucked...

 

^ thats what im talking about...they are weak with the NOTCH thats in them........so "slip" is imminent...more so if your tech didnt torque them down good.....and at that, the nut has lost what we engineers call "bearing capability" as the threaded section is missing since the bolt itself is machined.....

see here - notice how the bolts are "half mooned" cut with a "flat" section on them!!


IMHO if you are running them, then you should mark them and keep an eye on them...

Mark eccentric washers like so:


I said screw all that once i got adjustable arms and made my own lock out washers:

Lock out washers with 10.9 "SOLID shank" bolt and square washer so no movement from that point at all.....all adjustment is done on my adjustable arm...

You can see more info on this thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...alignment.html
-J