Suspension Adjustments
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
ok so i have tried to look online to see what can and cant be adjusted on the suspension of the 08 350z. By that i mean Front and Rear camber, caster, and toe. I am planning on buying an aftermarket control arms to try and see if i can correct the negative camber problem but i have no clue on what to buy because i have no idea on what can adjust. If u can help that would be cool. Thanks btw i have a Nismo.
1st - what are you lowered on? what springs or coilovers, etc?
2nd - what are your goals? lowered to look cool, or wanting to track, plan on getting coilovers, etc???
Front:
1. Camber - you can not adjust camber - thats done only with aftermarket upper control arms
2. Toe - adjustable via the oem tie rods on the steering rack only.
3. Caster - no caster adjustment either - see 1 in needing aftermarket arms, SPL.
Rear:
4. Camber - rear oem camber arm is fixed - but has eccentric washers but usually with a mild drop you can NOT get back into spec. So you need an aftermarket adjustable camber arm.
5. TOE - rear oem spring bucket arm is fixed - but has eccentric washers but ALSO usually with a mild drop will not get back into spec. SO you need aftermarket toe bolt - SPC 72055 part number washers that have "more" eccentric washers - more off centered. :How to install the toe bolts is here:
OR
you can get spring bucket delete arms that are sold by spl or battle version or circuit sports.
6. Rear does have a fwd facing traction arm, but this is not needed in replacement usually to get camber and toe back in if you get items mentioned in 4 and 5.
I will add links to my post to help you. let me update. *edit - done!
-J
2nd - what are your goals? lowered to look cool, or wanting to track, plan on getting coilovers, etc???
Front:
1. Camber - you can not adjust camber - thats done only with aftermarket upper control arms
2. Toe - adjustable via the oem tie rods on the steering rack only.
3. Caster - no caster adjustment either - see 1 in needing aftermarket arms, SPL.
Rear:
4. Camber - rear oem camber arm is fixed - but has eccentric washers but usually with a mild drop you can NOT get back into spec. So you need an aftermarket adjustable camber arm.
5. TOE - rear oem spring bucket arm is fixed - but has eccentric washers but ALSO usually with a mild drop will not get back into spec. SO you need aftermarket toe bolt - SPC 72055 part number washers that have "more" eccentric washers - more off centered. :How to install the toe bolts is here:
OR
you can get spring bucket delete arms that are sold by spl or battle version or circuit sports.
6. Rear does have a fwd facing traction arm, but this is not needed in replacement usually to get camber and toe back in if you get items mentioned in 4 and 5.
I will add links to my post to help you. let me update. *edit - done!
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jan 28, 2010 at 05:49 AM.
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
not wanting to lower or change the nismo suspension just wanted to see what i can do to make the camber more positive on the front and rear since i have 20" wheels all around. Thanks for all the help
I would start with the simple rear adjustable camber arm and rear spc 72055 toe bolt.
front if your not in spec, you would need at basic some camber adjusting upper control arms...like ichiba or cusco or something.
I take it this is a daily driver car, weekend car.........no track time?
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jan 26, 2010 at 12:31 PM.
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this is a weekend car/show car i havent tracked it yet but would like to. But not tall at all and the wheel gap fits the whole wheel well a lot better than the stock wheels did. But the rear wears the insides because of the camber and the front are perfect they show no wear at all.
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to adjust front camber you will need aftermarket camber arms. Only toe is adjustable up front. Some of the aftermarket ones do caster as well
toe is what tends to eat tires, not camber, unless all you do is drive in straight lines all the time - the factory eccentric bolts give you very minimal correction as Jason mentioned. The aftermarket setups again will give you more than you need as far as adjustment range
toe is what tends to eat tires, not camber, unless all you do is drive in straight lines all the time - the factory eccentric bolts give you very minimal correction as Jason mentioned. The aftermarket setups again will give you more than you need as far as adjustment range
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