NEW SPL PRO front compression rod bushings
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From: Planet Kolob
Mine are installed. Copied from g35driver.com
Finally installed them. Took 4 hours but me and Kenny took a 20min break when the $100,000 ice cream truck came. 
Compression rod and lower control arm bushings changed, 3 per side. The compression rods already had the revised bushings and only one had a tiny crack in it with 60k miles on it, caused problems. Kenny was going to use a puller to get them off but I pulled them off the frame stud with my hands. The lower control arm was the hardest to install back but it came out VERY easy. Overall the car was pure joy to work on and it was very easy and a lot of fun even though it was hot as hell and my shirt and pants were soaked in my own sweat. me and Kenny were also impressed by how light the compression rods and LCAs are. Seemed to be forged.
Anyone in GA who wants bushings installed for compression rods and LCAs me and Kenny will charge $250/3 bushings per side. PM me if interested.
The car is a dream to drive now compared to before. I can drive it harder, brakes are sharper and don't skip off the rotors, cornering is sharper and it no longer "walks" on the freeway changing lanes and stays laser straight despite the car needing an alignment. Will get even better when I change the front tires and alignment. I am really impressed and surprised how a car that costs 35k new can brake and corner so well now all thanks to SPL. This is by far the best mod I've done so far. I look forward to installing and buying more parts from SPL. :biggthumpup:
Had to take pics of the $100,000 rolling truck. Made in USA tools. :biggthumpup:
Compression rod and lower control arm bushings changed, 3 per side. The compression rods already had the revised bushings and only one had a tiny crack in it with 60k miles on it, caused problems. Kenny was going to use a puller to get them off but I pulled them off the frame stud with my hands. The lower control arm was the hardest to install back but it came out VERY easy. Overall the car was pure joy to work on and it was very easy and a lot of fun even though it was hot as hell and my shirt and pants were soaked in my own sweat. me and Kenny were also impressed by how light the compression rods and LCAs are. Seemed to be forged.Anyone in GA who wants bushings installed for compression rods and LCAs me and Kenny will charge $250/3 bushings per side. PM me if interested.
The car is a dream to drive now compared to before. I can drive it harder, brakes are sharper and don't skip off the rotors, cornering is sharper and it no longer "walks" on the freeway changing lanes and stays laser straight despite the car needing an alignment. Will get even better when I change the front tires and alignment. I am really impressed and surprised how a car that costs 35k new can brake and corner so well now all thanks to SPL. This is by far the best mod I've done so far. I look forward to installing and buying more parts from SPL. :biggthumpup:
Had to take pics of the $100,000 rolling truck. Made in USA tools. :biggthumpup:
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Bay Area, CA
OT, but, I'd be willing to bet that if you took all the tools in the truck and added up their list price value, and added that to the value of the truck itself, you'd be way past $100k...Snapon makes some hella nice stuff, but also hella expensive for a hobbyist like myself..
sup kwame,
well the spl instructions give sears part numbers of two Sears sockets, driver and receiver for removing the oem bushing.
driver - sears p/n 47754 = 1-11/16
receiver - sears p/n 47793 = 2-3/8
Note, that those are only need to remove the old bushing........
To press/install the new SPL compression rod bushing a flat plate is all thats need (like shown above), as the cone ends come off and can be put on after the center is pressed into the arm.
-J
well the spl instructions give sears part numbers of two Sears sockets, driver and receiver for removing the oem bushing.
driver - sears p/n 47754 = 1-11/16
receiver - sears p/n 47793 = 2-3/8
Note, that those are only need to remove the old bushing........
To press/install the new SPL compression rod bushing a flat plate is all thats need (like shown above), as the cone ends come off and can be put on after the center is pressed into the arm.
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Sep 7, 2010 at 11:13 AM.
Well shame on me for not even looking at the instructions. To be honest, instructions being included with a set of bushings is new to me and I've replaced pretty much all of them front and rear in my car. Props to SPL for including them.
Got mine!!
Woo hoo........well I drove down to Austin while on a trip to SA and picked up my set along with a set for Nexx and AcidJake75........
Cant wait to install them! (my set shown here in my Xterra)
My pup going with me to pick them up in Austin:
-J
Cant wait to install them! (my set shown here in my Xterra)
My pup going with me to pick them up in Austin:
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Aug 16, 2010 at 10:16 AM.
^ ya i know, pricey for sure!
I plan on removing my compression arm and first measuring the required diameter and looking at having my local steel supplier cut me some DOM steel pipe for 5 bucks total for both sizes...
For the translink i had them cut me a 1 inch tall 1.5" diameter solid piece of aluminum and its perfect!!!
paid about 5 for that piece also...
-J
I plan on removing my compression arm and first measuring the required diameter and looking at having my local steel supplier cut me some DOM steel pipe for 5 bucks total for both sizes...
For the translink i had them cut me a 1 inch tall 1.5" diameter solid piece of aluminum and its perfect!!!
paid about 5 for that piece also...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Sep 7, 2010 at 11:14 AM.
I have access to a machine shop too............so worst case i buy a larger size and then have them turn it down to the size needed......all of which would be cheap and easy and more than likely easier to use than a socket........
i hate when the press pushes the socket over, or the socket pitches to one side because of that, etc...
-J
i hate when the press pushes the socket over, or the socket pitches to one side because of that, etc...
-J
Receiver alternative - when removing the oem bushing
So no need for receiver - sears p/n 47793 = 2-3/8"
Any local steel supply yard can cut you a 2.5" long piece for 5 bucks.
Even a local welder my have a piece of pipe that size laying around they can cut for you.
3.0" OD / 2.5" ID x 2.5" long
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Aug 26, 2010 at 05:57 AM.
Driver Alternative - when removing the oem bushing - in the works
Instead of Driver - sears p/n 47754 = 1-11/16
Well, I have confirmed the diameter on the 1-11/16 sears "suggested" driver to be 2.30" and 2.31"(Acidjake) from two different peeps.
I plan on doing this install this weekend, and will see if a 2.25" OD tube will work as a driver instead of the sears socket......hopefully the .05 less is acceptable...odds are it will....at about a 2 inch length.
This should help avoid paying $50 bucks for sockets you may only use once and instead you can buy 10 bucks worth of steel pipe.
I'll confirm once we get this done.....I measured and 2.25 will work it seems ans the race is smaller and 2.25 will catch it...
EDIT - confirmed! 2.25" OD steel DOM works great!
-J
Well, I have confirmed the diameter on the 1-11/16 sears "suggested" driver to be 2.30" and 2.31"(Acidjake) from two different peeps.
I plan on doing this install this weekend, and will see if a 2.25" OD tube will work as a driver instead of the sears socket......hopefully the .05 less is acceptable...odds are it will....at about a 2 inch length.
This should help avoid paying $50 bucks for sockets you may only use once and instead you can buy 10 bucks worth of steel pipe.
I'll confirm once we get this done.....I measured and 2.25 will work it seems ans the race is smaller and 2.25 will catch it...
EDIT - confirmed! 2.25" OD steel DOM works great!
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Sep 7, 2010 at 05:28 AM.