GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

So im interested in purchasing a basic coilover setup (no need nor want to adjust dampening for my use) and ive narrowed it down to either the Tanabe S-OC or KW Variant 1's.

My research tells me the S-OC drop range for the Z is F: .25-1.75" R: .25-1.5". With this being said, lets assume i want to dial it in to max drop on both the front and rear, 1.75 - 1.5, respectively, and almost always stay at this height.

Since basics cant adjust dampening and the shock is factory pre-set to ride anywhere within this range, would keeping the coils at their max drop shorten the life of the shock? I know that it's supposed to be set to hold up anywhere within the drop range, but logic would tell me keeping it at max drop would put the shock at max stress 100% of time.

Any input would be appreciated and tia.

Lee R

iTrader: (10)

Awesome new thread right here.......

https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ts-needed.html

So glad this is up!

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Yes sir, read that, and its for sure one the best info threads to hit this forum, but alas it does not answer my question bro.

So Jason, if you wish to close this and move to your thread and answer, by all means do so, but still seeking an answer. I dont think my question nec falls under the intent of him posting that thread, but rather is specific enough to not be covered under the answers he is supplying for the broad questions many are asking.

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

add Bilstein PSS to the list...

Don't know enough about shocks to answer your question though. I do know that the KW's and Bilsteins adjust ride height via spring preload, giving the shock less travel... so you'll bottom out the suspension more frequently than if you had it at a higher height.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Exactly!

This is my concern. I figure that since dampening is non-adjustable in basic setups and height is adjusted by spring preload, bottoming out more often on a "wide range" preset shock might take its toll over time, but not sure, and thats why the drop is minimum on all basic coil setups.

For all i know, these shocks may be well-equipped to ride at max-drop for years, but i would like to find out before pulling the trigger on this.

heyyouduh

iTrader: (1)

As long as you're not bottoming out and assuming the spring rate is the same regardless of ride height, I don't see how a shock would wear more. It should go through the same amount of shaft displacement regardless. I'm not an expert at all though.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

1. Why would you spend money on coilovers that dont have rebound adjustment?

2. what is your use? just daily driving?

3. with your drop wants, it seems your going for a slammed look with larger diamter wheels???? is this the case on a daily driving car?

4. with those mentioned are you trying to stay in a 1k-1.3K buck budget?

I would IF you are looking for a more slammed look into true coilovers so that you can get into spec with a TOE ARM to replace the spring bucket and NOT use the spc toe bolts at the spring bucket to subframe location.

also, do you have any actual pics of this suspension FOR a 350z, becuase allthe pics i find on sites selling them are NOT 350z coilovers, but just random general pics..

in for answers?



I agree, I would like to leave this thread separate.....

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for response bud

Ok,:

1. Well because simply i dont need to. Rebound adjustment, as i see it, are for those who corner balance their cars, track often, adjust often, etc. This is not me. The more simple i can keep the coil setup, the better. Im only interested in adjusting height for purposes of normal driving vs. showing, and maybe occasional track use, but very rare.

2. car will mainly be driven normally, a show car, with very rare track use

3. Negative...well at least not slammed in the sense that Stance coils can take you. Wheels are not over agressive, 19x9.5 et.17 19x10.5 et.18

4. Yup. $800-1.2k

Well let me ask you this: Does the ability to adjust dampening on the shock preserve it longer for max drops? It would seem that making the shock rebound less (close to full hard, thats what she said) would more prevent a bottom out on max drop whereas on a basic setup the shocks gonna travel however far its gonna travel given your drop rate, you cant prevent a bottom out.

I dont think i will need to replace the bucket with arms, tho, not going that low so that rear kit wouldnt be able to get me in spec.

My general thought is, if im not tracking nor corner balancing, then whats the point of having dampening adjustable coils? Why not keep it more simple? Is this thought process flawed where coils are concerned?

Thanks for the help bro, ill see if i can find some actual pics of the coils.

blasian

iTrader: (29)

Dampening allows for flexibility and not all coilovers let you adjust the rebound independently. Most of the ones that allow you to adjust dampening will adjust the compression/rebound together rather than separately.

And why would one want to adjust rebound independently? Flexibility my friend

I <3 my KWs.

I know the KWs aren't true coilovers. Not sure about the Tanabes.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Okay, that being said, i would stay away from those coilovers with adjustment at the perch....cause obviously from this thread you are worried about shock life......

if you get coilovers that adjust via the lower lug "body" then you are not shortening the shock internals when lowering? get it???

okay, there are others out there you can look into.....stance for sure is one in that budget right??


who knows? i think thats more of a question for the manufacture of said shocks/coilovers........but again, why buy coilovers that - in order to lower, shortens rebound on the shock....get shocks that adjust at the lug lower body and its full travel isnt compromised.


ya, no need if your in spec and daily driving...but that occaisional track is where i would be mindful of the spc toe bolts slipping/moving...

no not flawed, but at the same time not a reall issue......in the end your spending money on coilovers that does give you some options of units that have adjustablitily, its as easy as set all 4 at the same setting and forget about it.........., but the main thing is getting coilovers that dont compromise shock travel in adjustment...

yes please do...

also on topic.........I run K sport coilovers - long story short - I had a budget to stay within and they were a gift from the fiance, now wife...SOOooo...

I purchased K sports because i felt they were the best at the time for me that were "TRUE COILOVERS"

Here they are on my car with a 1.25 or so drop on my car:
Front:

Rear:


Also see here:
These are actual 350z stance coilovers, i dont know which ones, but im using it as a reference....read what i comment on them here, especially the right side of the pic comments...


also, K sports are in your budget

Personally I wasnt happy and wanted better, but like i said i had a budget to keep when getting them and I NEEDED coilovers at the time! lol.......at needed!! anywho......... I have come to be very very pleased with my K sports for daily driving and track......

They are a bit on the soft side for daily but then again thats comfortable

if anything, i would want coilovers identical to them but with indexable clicking on rebound and more rebound adjustment range that is noticable...

Also look into D2 coilovers.......just not sure on their drop range?

also, True coilovers allow you to get a rear toe arm (spring bucket delete arm) later down the road if ever you want one or need more toe to get in spec..........plus for show car purposes, IMHO a toe arm painted or what not is a lot cooler looking that an empty spring bucket........

-J

ALO8

iTrader: (5)

So say if the drop amount is roughly 2-2.5 inches for the slammed look, The spc toe bolt will most likely be insufficient to bring back toe into specs? I saw the adjustable spring bucket by spl which I might have to get if my spc toe bolt does not get me back into specs

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Exactly! it wont!

so if you choose to buy oem set up coilovers - as in spring in the spring bucket coilovers, you would need spl's pro midlink OR see if #23 (adjustable aftermarket) radius rods will get you in spec...

This is the part i have a problem with??.....at the high added cost of spl's pro midlink why not just get true coilovers and with not needing a spring in the spring bucket you can then get a Toe arm and your set! ie, toe adjustment where toe is "intended" to be adjusted from, as in that arms location and a camber arm...done and done...??

-J

blasian

iTrader: (29)

The true coilovers will eat that shock mount bushing alive. I'd definitely get the SPL ones for it though. Back when I had true coilovers, they didn't exist.

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Jason, as always, you da man.

Im gonna PM you here in a few about your experience with those Ksports.

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

If you did some research, KW/EibachProstreet and Bilstein coilovers have great dampers, and provide a very good ride vs anything else in their price range and sometimes above... even if he bought a different brand that have dropping independent of preload and shock height, it's not like the damper of that particular coilover was any better than the ones listed above...(unless it was hks, ohlins, zeals etc..)

I always refer to:
http://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-s...w-updates.html

I guess I wouldn't worry about shock life vs a good coilover system as KW's and Bilsteins can be rebuilt/revalved in the US in many places vs a JDM coilover. Plus I believe Bilsteins have a lifetime warranty and I'm not 100% sure about the KW's though... I've read different things from 2-years to lifetime warranty.

That's just my opinion..

ALO8

iTrader: (5)

exactly, thats why I want to stick with oem setup and fork out extra cash for the spl

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Very true, and the rebuild option concerning the Tanabes was a potential deal-breaker for me, whereas supposedly KW has unmatched customer service when it comes to problems and Bilsteins the same.

I have heard/read very good things about the Bilsteins, but more on the PSS9's than the PSS's. But im inclined to believe the entire lineup is steller if so much praise has been given to one of them.

The PSS is an OEM style coilver setup for the Z, correct?

blasian

iTrader: (29)

I believe so.

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

The Bilstein PSS family are all the same, with different options/revalving but the same hardware (shock and spring), Same goes for KW1 ->2,3. Same hardware, additional adjustability. And both KW and Bilstein are oem type.

edit: kwv3 shocks are a bit different.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Ya see i know the rear shock mount bushing on the top of the rear spindle gets abused but even with all the tracking i do on my car i have yet to kill it.......its still good...

but yes, i would replace with the spl bushing over run oem coilovers any day and eliminate the need for the crappy spc toe bolts and using a spring bucket........and the cost for the spl pro midlink is not worth it to me, if that, i would rather spend more money on more coilovers..

I considered this when telling him about true coilovers because he said its a normal daily driven car.......do you really feel he will kill the shock bushing if he runs true coilovers??? im sincerely asking because every car i have worked on i have yet to see that one tear bad or be horrible, off centered or weaked yes, but not blown or eaten as you say???

-J