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ACTUAL 350z coilovers! - pic thread!

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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 12:40 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by 350Zdj
Let's say street tyres. Like Dunlop Direzza, Pilot Sports, Invo, etc.
If you are going with a basic street tire then the basic out of the box set per manufacture would be the best set up.

If you were setting it up for something little more specific then it would be easier to go into more detail. But 99% of people are happy with the out of box set ups manufactures have and recommend.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 01:00 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Jade@Ksportusa
If you are going with a basic street tire then the basic out of the box set per manufacture would be the best set up.

If you were setting it up for something little more specific then it would be easier to go into more detail. But 99% of people are happy with the out of box set ups manufactures have and recommend.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
I'd recommend hyperco 3000lb in the front and 2500lb in the rear. That'll get the job done.
Daym. lol

I was just wondering how much is too much for any regular street tyres.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by 350Zdj

I was just wondering how much is too much for any regular street tyres.
regular street tires I wouldn't go over the normal 10k front and 8k rear , if your running really sticky stuff like RS3, Star Specs you can do a 12k front and 10k rear.

From there Aero and tire combos really start to change the rates. Typically you want the softest springs and dampening for the most traction. Stiffer the spring, the less traction you have.

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets2.html start reading, it will help you out a lot. Much of the info carries over from autocross to the road course.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 10:16 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
regular street tires I wouldn't go over the normal 10k front and 8k rear , if your running really sticky stuff like RS3, Star Specs you can do a 12k front and 10k rear.

From there Aero and tire combos really start to change the rates. Typically you want the softest springs and dampening for the most traction. Stiffer the spring, the less traction you have.

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets2.html start reading, it will help you out a lot. Much of the info carries over from autocross to the road course.
You sir are awesome !
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Old Aug 26, 2012 | 08:50 PM
  #125  
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Any update to the PBM review?

Anymore KW3 true type reviews?
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Old Aug 29, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #126  
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so i need some help, im looking for some coils the only ones i could seem to find that are in my price range are megan track coils , tein basics , stance super sport ss D coilovers,

does any one know which one of these will give me the most drop and stiffness? ive doing research and cant really find info on them
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 11:14 AM
  #127  
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I would say stance over the other two choices...

What are you going to use them for?
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Old Sep 17, 2012 | 11:18 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by joshie3.5.0.z
so i need some help, im looking for some coils the only ones i could seem to find that are in my price range are megan track coils , tein basics , stance super sport ss D coilovers,

does any one know which one of these will give me the most drop and stiffness? ive doing research and cant really find info on them
Why do you need the lowest and stiffest?
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 06:51 PM
  #129  
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wanna slamm my car very low and im running whide rims so i dont wanna ruin them with soft damping , and i also plan on tracking the car once in a while (not a track junkie)
Originally Posted by KingBaby
I would say stance over the other two choices...

What are you going to use them for?
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Old Nov 21, 2012 | 03:03 PM
  #130  
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D2 is another option. For some reason, the Z/G community doesn't like them, but everyone I know thta has'em (self included) likes'em. I know a couple of G's and a buddy with a Z running them. And in other import communities, they get high reviews. As for lowness, you can literally lay frame on the ground. My car is mostly a street cruiser, but I drift my G on occassion and haven't had issue. If you really want to do some more track time, I don't think I'd recommend them, but for what I wanted to do, they're GGGGGGGGGGGGGGREAT.
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 12:43 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by joshie3.5.0.z
wanna slamm my car very low and im running whide rims so i dont wanna ruin them with soft damping , and i also plan on tracking the car once in a while (not a track junkie)
Maybe it is just me but slamming is for low and slow and requires severe negative camber the wears tires on the inside. Tracing requires a small amount of negative camber and stiff spring rates with sufficient height to avoid bottoming out the car?

Stance makes a GR+ true coil overs that I use; bought them with two sets of coil springs, 10/5 and 14/7, that let's me swap for competition use.

Last edited by rocooper45; Nov 23, 2012 at 12:44 PM.
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Old Nov 23, 2012 | 03:24 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets2.html start reading, it will help you out a lot. Much of the info carries over from autocross to the road course.

THANK YOU....
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Old Dec 2, 2012 | 04:26 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by driftsucky
D2 is another option. For some reason, the Z/G community doesn't like them, but everyone I know thta has'em (self included) likes'em. I know a couple of G's and a buddy with a Z running them. And in other import communities, they get high reviews. As for lowness, you can literally lay frame on the ground. My car is mostly a street cruiser, but I drift my G on occassion and haven't had issue. If you really want to do some more track time, I don't think I'd recommend them, but for what I wanted to do, they're GGGGGGGGGGGGGGREAT.
I love my D2's. Don't sacrifice any comfort compared to OEM ride quality. I think they'd be fine for the track as long as you have sways and some other suspension mods
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 06:30 AM
  #134  
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I'm gonna bump this thread, because I just installed my Racelands. I also apologize for the large pictures.

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They are a McPherson conversion, so the rears are a true coilover.
(and, of course, I forgot to take a picture of the rears so I will update this post later today).

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The rears don't go that low. I have about a half inch of coils left, but I think I may purchase a shorter spring.

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The fronts go very low. I could sit the rails on the ground if I wanted to. I have about an inch and a half more and only about an inch between my bumper and the ground.

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I'm pretty sunk, but that will change soon. I also need an alignment.

They are also 12kg front and 7kg rear as far as spring rates go.

In my opinion these are a good stiffness for daily use. I've driven in Jettas and other VW's with Racelands and they do not feel how those do. In my experience, Racelands have been known to feel Civic-like, but these DO NOT at all feel like that. Instead, they make the car handle like it is on rails with little body roll, while still being relatively forgiving. While large bumps and potholes are obstacles, but that is not out of line for the average coilover setup. The only disadvantage is the lack of dampening adjustablility, which is understandably important to many people. Personally, I feel that that would be vital on a more track oriented setup, but for daily use, you can get by without it.

I will go out on a limb and say that these would rival the Stance setup barring the dampening adjustablility, of which the Racelands currently lack. I have a friend that has Stance coils installed on a G35 and the stiffness and ride is about the same. The rears of the Stance definitely go lower, but I would like to see if shorter rear springs make a difference on the Racelands. I will explore that and keep everyone updated. And at $500, half the price of what the Stance go for, it is a solid option if your short on money, want your Z low, but don't want to blow out your OEM shocks with lowering springs. I'm ultimately happy with them.

Also, first post
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Old Mar 13, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #135  
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Could anyone help me identify these please?


The seller says it's "HKS Hipermax LS+ adjustable suspension" but just to clarify
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Old May 29, 2013 | 08:17 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by Z_enthusiast
Mine do not have the gold hat either. so i assume they use the factory spring mount? in all pics i dont see the spring mount used but when spring installed without spring mount the spring in the bucket is loose (of course it wont be when unler load) but cant be good loose.
SO question: Use stock rubber spring mount on new BC BR versions?
Would like to know this answer as well. Installed the BC BR Coils and I ran into an issue for raising the rear up. Seems the spring is to loose and as I use the spanner wrench to try and raise it up the whole spring just rotates instead.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 12:56 PM
  #137  
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^^^NVM, found the issue. Used my car jack to jack up the spring bucket to tighten the load as I raised the car. I only raised it from the Spring and didn't touch the shock, should I tweak the shock as well? the car seems to bounce more in the back instead of being stiff/tight as I was expecting.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 01:12 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by kyle22
^^^NVM, found the issue. Used my car jack to jack up the spring bucket to tighten the load as I raised the car. I only raised it from the Spring and didn't touch the shock, should I tweak the shock as well? the car seems to bounce more in the back instead of being stiff/tight as I was expecting.
You're adding more preload, so rebound is gonna be greater. See if adding more rebound to shock helps.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 01:31 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by ronn1
You're adding more preload, so rebound is gonna be greater. See if adding more rebound to shock helps.
So if I raise the spring(preload) I should always raise the strut(rebound) to compensate and vice versa? By adding rebound you mean raise it right?

Last edited by kyle22; Jun 2, 2013 at 01:33 PM.
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Old Jun 2, 2013 | 01:55 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by kyle22
So if I raise the spring(preload) I should always raise the strut(rebound) to compensate and vice versa? By adding rebound you mean raise it right?
I don't know about *always* here...but if it bounces a lot more, it's due to added spring preload and rebound force of the spring...so it would make sense to compensative with higher rebound settings (yes adding more rebound force to shock). Adding rebound to shock increases resistance to rebound of the spring and should reduce *bounce*. You have to be careful not to over due do rebound because it can lead to *jacking up* effect and cause car to skip over bumps.
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