Seems like you know just as much about spring rate as Ksport

 

Fair statement, I don't know all that much on the subject. As I said though I was suprised by the difference in the sprint rates. Maybe using the word "huge" was the wrong word, either way I struggle to see what the problem is with that comment.... No need to go getting too carried away.

 

Rear is this way because it is now a true coilover type in the rear. Unlike the OEM when you normally run a much higher rate because of the positioning of the spring.

If you were to research other companies that offer a True coilovers type rear you will see something about identical.

I.E
Stance 12kg front 6kg rear (true type)

 

hahahahahahaha! Terra trying to clown, and ended up getting clowned. Honestly you had no reason to say sh*t to that guy. Why don't you explain.. what you think is up with the spring rate?

 

Front frequency is _._HZ Rear is_._HZ ?
Front wheel rate is ___LB? Rear is ___LB?

What will the car handle like?

The typical spring for a 12k front would actually be a 5k rear mounted on the shock. I would fill in all the question marks, but I don't seem to have the suspension spreadsheets on my home computer.

 

You should also take into consideration everyones shocks will be dampened differently. This would come into play with spring rate some also.

But just because there is a 12kg front there is really no way to have a definite answer as what should be in the rear.

Everyone that has the suspension on their vehicle (ours and many other companies) seem to be doing just fine with the rates provided that are outside of your box of what the rear rate should be.

 

Not sure if serious...

a nearly 8k rear spring in a coilover set-up in the rear with a 12k front would create crap rates at the wheel. That car would be an over-steering piece of poo.

 

So, then Ksport, Stance etc anyone who uses similar spring rates with their true coilovers is a piece of poo? Or will be an over-steering piece of poo?

 

That is correct.

 

My bad, must have read over the "True Coilover rear" part of the ad. Never realised there was such a significant difference in spring rate required from an OEM style to a true coilover so i can safely say i learnt something today, so thanks.

I initially read it thinking it'd have a decent amount of understeer. Having read it again and having better understanding i'll pay more attention next time before/if I comment..... Back on topic.

 

All good, there is a wealth on knowledge on here, but a lot of BS to sift thru. We all started somewhere. Start looking for posts from g35sedan

 

Again would depend on the valving of the shock and twin tube vs monotube.

Lots of specs within this that cant be seen because we arent the ones that engineered the shocks.

 

Regardless of shock valving, the wheel rates are crap with those rates. I have a clue on what works. I currently campaign the fastest autocross 350Z in the country. We/I have put a ton of effort into dozens of set-ups and know what works and what doesn't.

 

I would love to know how this works. So valving etc etc is going to effect wheel rate. I guess you can possibly band-aid crappy rates with damper adjustment, i don't know why you would want to do that.

 

not saying that by any means, just saying it does effect how the vehicle will respond.

especially a twin tube design vs a monotube design.

 

Don't know if this is the place to ask this question but, is there an ideal/specific/recommended spring rate for front and rear coils (OEM setup) to get proper handling car on street tyres? i always thought, the stiffer the better? LOL.

 

waits to see the reply to this...

 

I see what you did there!

First question I would ask is what tires are you running?

 

Let's say street tyres. Like Dunlop Direzza, Pilot Sports, Invo, etc.

 

I'd recommend hyperco 3000lb in the front and 2500lb in the rear. That'll get the job done.