Alignment questions???
05-08-2010, 06:17 PM
#1
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Alignment questions???
Ok, so today I had two new rear tires mounted/balanced and four TPMS sensors installed. I wanted to have an allignment done as well. So I went to Sears to have this all done and when I got there they told me they werent able to do the allignment. I cant remember the full explanation, but they said the specs were way off and there were no camber adjustments for the front wheels. These are the tire and wheel specs:
Fronts 18x8.5 on 245/45/18
Rears 18x9.5 on 285/40/18
Now, my question is, does this have to do with the fact that I have these large wheels/tires on? Is there likely some serious issue with my car?
It rides fine! Just a slow, slight pull to the left if I let the steering wheel go, but nothing out of the ordinary. PLEASE SEE the comment at then end of the report.
Here's the results:
Please let me know what you guys think.
Thanks,
Mike
Fronts 18x8.5 on 245/45/18
Rears 18x9.5 on 285/40/18
Now, my question is, does this have to do with the fact that I have these large wheels/tires on? Is there likely some serious issue with my car?
It rides fine! Just a slow, slight pull to the left if I let the steering wheel go, but nothing out of the ordinary. PLEASE SEE the comment at then end of the report.
Here's the results:
Please let me know what you guys think.
Thanks,
Mike
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 05-12-2010 at 05:42 AM.
05-09-2010, 06:19 AM
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If they use stock specs, what effect does the size of my tires and wheels have on the results?
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05-09-2010, 06:41 AM
#8
They are thinking the car has been in an accident, that's why your alignment is out. You say no accident or bad potholes. The fact that one side has positive camber and the other has too much negative means that either the frame is bent (accident), or their machine is not working properly (calibration) or the tech doesn't know what he's doing.
BTW - front camber is "adjustable". They can loosen the bolts holding the upper control arm and there's a little slop in the hole in the frame. That allows you to get a small adjustment - I got mine from -0.7º to -1.5º with that little tweak.
BTW - front camber is "adjustable". They can loosen the bolts holding the upper control arm and there's a little slop in the hole in the frame. That allows you to get a small adjustment - I got mine from -0.7º to -1.5º with that little tweak.
05-09-2010, 06:55 AM
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Go to a good shop. Find out where the SCCA guy's take their race cars.
Very few shops are good at alignment, every area has at least one shop that makes the effort. There is a huge difference between "in spec's" and performance aligned for your style and needs.
Very few shops are good at alignment, every area has at least one shop that makes the effort. There is a huge difference between "in spec's" and performance aligned for your style and needs.
05-09-2010, 07:27 AM
#10
Crap - I missed a very important point in your first post. You had it done at Sears. Places like that are at the bottom of the totem pole with respect to the level of expertise of the techs, quality of the equipment and ability to spend the time/effort on a special case such as yours.
Definitely take it to a shop that specializes in wheels/tires/alignment/suspension. As johnlotusboy pointed out, find somebody who aligns race/autocross cars. You'll pay more but you'll get a near perfect alignment.
Definitely take it to a shop that specializes in wheels/tires/alignment/suspension. As johnlotusboy pointed out, find somebody who aligns race/autocross cars. You'll pay more but you'll get a near perfect alignment.
05-09-2010, 07:30 AM
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Crap - I missed a very important point in your first post. You had it done at Sears. Places like that are at the bottom of the totem pole with respect to the level of expertise of the techs, quality of the equipment and ability to spend the time/effort on a special case such as yours.
Definitely take it to a shop that specializes in wheels/tires/alignment/suspension. As johnlotusboy pointed out, find somebody who aligns race/autocross cars. You'll pay more but you'll get a near perfect alignment.
Definitely take it to a shop that specializes in wheels/tires/alignment/suspension. As johnlotusboy pointed out, find somebody who aligns race/autocross cars. You'll pay more but you'll get a near perfect alignment.
Thanks,
Mike
05-10-2010, 03:59 AM
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They are thinking the car has been in an accident, that's why your alignment is out. You say no accident or bad potholes. The fact that one side has positive camber and the other has too much negative means that either the frame is bent (accident), or their machine is not working properly (calibration) or the tech doesn't know what he's doing.
best advice - go elsewhere!
Camber can not be adjusted on a stock Z...your situation is because the square blocks move in their slots and your hole has so slop.....i wouldnt rely on that...
FSM on Front camber - can not be adjusted:
Crap - I missed a very important point in your first post. You had it done at Sears. Places like that are at the bottom of the totem pole with respect to the level of expertise of the techs, quality of the equipment and ability to spend the time/effort on a special case such as yours.
Definitely take it to a shop that specializes in wheels/tires/alignment/suspension. As johnlotusboy pointed out, find somebody who aligns race/autocross cars. You'll pay more but you'll get a near perfect alignment.
Definitely take it to a shop that specializes in wheels/tires/alignment/suspension. As johnlotusboy pointed out, find somebody who aligns race/autocross cars. You'll pay more but you'll get a near perfect alignment.
Read the bad bushings section of this thread - though i doubt it with so few miles...........but who knows...?
were all not there to see it...https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html
See post 23.
Okay, as for your tire size question:
Your tires are obvoiusly different that factory wheels and tires, they can be bigger in diameter, more offcentered, etc.........your tires do affect alignment, but with stock suspension and no drop, the tire specs and wheel sizes given should be able to be brought back into spec utilizing the rear camber and toe adjustments and the FRONT toe adjustment as NOTHING else up front it adjustable stock.
again if you wanna review stock suspension configuration and adjust ability, read the beginning of this "Suspension 101" sticky thread i gave to you.
COME BACK with another alignment sheet and post it up....
-J
05-10-2010, 05:26 AM
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most likely thats the issue if the car hasn't been in an accident or anything damaged.........a good alignment tech would have ensured the machine was fine, and if it was fine, they would have inspected the car well and found the issues at hand, not "take to vehicle to frame shop"
+1 agree!
exactly, they are saying that they think its been wrecked.
best advice - go elsewhere!
Camber can not be adjusted on a stock Z...your situation is because the square blocks move in their slots and your hole has so slop.....i wouldnt rely on that...
FSM on Front camber - can not be adjusted:
+1000...go elsewhere!
+2000...Go elsewhere!
go somewhere else and if there are any repeat issues then have the tech inspect the car very well.....bent arms, messed up bushings, etc....
Read the bad bushings section of this thread - though i doubt it with so few miles...........but who knows...? were all not there to see it...
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html
See post 23.
Okay, as for your tire size question:
Your tires are obvoiusly different that factory wheels and tires, they can be bigger in diameter, more offcentered, etc.........your tires do affect alignment, but with stock suspension and no drop, the tire specs and wheel sizes given should be able to be brought back into spec utilizing the rear camber and toe adjustments and the FRONT toe adjustment as NOTHING else up front it adjustable stock.
again if you wanna review stock suspension configuration and adjust ability, read the beginning of this "Suspension 101" sticky thread i gave to you.
COME BACK with another alignment sheet and post it up....
-J
+1 agree!
exactly, they are saying that they think its been wrecked.
best advice - go elsewhere!
Camber can not be adjusted on a stock Z...your situation is because the square blocks move in their slots and your hole has so slop.....i wouldnt rely on that...
FSM on Front camber - can not be adjusted:
+1000...go elsewhere!
+2000...Go elsewhere!
go somewhere else and if there are any repeat issues then have the tech inspect the car very well.....bent arms, messed up bushings, etc....
Read the bad bushings section of this thread - though i doubt it with so few miles...........but who knows...?
were all not there to see it...https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html
See post 23.
Okay, as for your tire size question:
Your tires are obvoiusly different that factory wheels and tires, they can be bigger in diameter, more offcentered, etc.........your tires do affect alignment, but with stock suspension and no drop, the tire specs and wheel sizes given should be able to be brought back into spec utilizing the rear camber and toe adjustments and the FRONT toe adjustment as NOTHING else up front it adjustable stock.
again if you wanna review stock suspension configuration and adjust ability, read the beginning of this "Suspension 101" sticky thread i gave to you.
COME BACK with another alignment sheet and post it up....
-J
05-10-2010, 06:39 AM
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Alignment on Z is a 4 wheel......must be...
-If your asking on the Xterra is usually just front that needs adjusting as the rear is solid axle and all they check is position..
I have a 4x4 08 Xterra, Its not an Off-road model, but i plan on doing the rear axle swap and front Titan diff swap with pathfinder front axles......
-J
-If your asking on the Xterra is usually just front that needs adjusting as the rear is solid axle and all they check is position..
I have a 4x4 08 Xterra, Its not an Off-road model, but i plan on doing the rear axle swap and front Titan diff swap with pathfinder front axles......
-J
05-11-2010, 04:59 PM
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So I went to Euro-tire in Farifield NJ today to get a four wheel alignment. Euro-tire is a highly respected place and much better decision than Sears. They had no issues at all with the alignment and I didnt even mention that I went to Sears 
. The guy that did the alignment even mentioned that I must have had uneven wear on my old tires, which I did.
Here are the numbers that I got from Euro-Tire:
At least I didnt have to pay anything at Sears
.
Comments are welcome.
-Mike
. The guy that did the alignment even mentioned that I must have had uneven wear on my old tires, which I did.Here are the numbers that I got from Euro-Tire:
At least I didnt have to pay anything at Sears
.Comments are welcome.
-Mike
05-13-2010, 09:01 AM
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If these machines are calibrated or operated correctly is in question.
Notice the great deal of change in the numbers around the front camber.
The front camber is not changing on the car, the test equipment is suspect, which machine isn't clear. I would find a shop with the little airbag wedges that they can use to push the parts around to the limits of the stock bolt hole slop. I would like the camber as close from side to side as possible.
The first alignment show 1.1 degree difference from side to side, I believe this to be bad equipment and operator.
The second shows .4 degree difference that probably could be brought down to a .1 or less difference by wedging the suspension to it's limits by a good creative alignment tech.
Your total amount of toe front and rear is very high. This will make a heavy feeling car that is slow to initiate a turn and the rear is slow to follow. You want just barely more than zero toe (.02 degree)in the front and rear for excellent car feel. 0 toe (or toe out)on the rear can make the rear end harder to keep behind you at the limits.
Notice the great deal of change in the numbers around the front camber.
The front camber is not changing on the car, the test equipment is suspect, which machine isn't clear. I would find a shop with the little airbag wedges that they can use to push the parts around to the limits of the stock bolt hole slop. I would like the camber as close from side to side as possible.
The first alignment show 1.1 degree difference from side to side, I believe this to be bad equipment and operator.
The second shows .4 degree difference that probably could be brought down to a .1 or less difference by wedging the suspension to it's limits by a good creative alignment tech.
Your total amount of toe front and rear is very high. This will make a heavy feeling car that is slow to initiate a turn and the rear is slow to follow. You want just barely more than zero toe (.02 degree)in the front and rear for excellent car feel. 0 toe (or toe out)on the rear can make the rear end harder to keep behind you at the limits.
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