(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I have been reading up on coilovers and springs and Im going with coilovers. However, I wanted to ask what kind of coilovers can I get for under 800 USED. I will not track the car, ride quality and comfort can be about oem, not too concerned about ride comfort, and I am looking to close the gap between the fender and wheel. So maybe a 1.5 to 2 inch drop. Which coilovers would be good for my situation? I was thinking function and form or megan since those are cheap to begin with, and good comfort. Also, would oem style or true coilovers matter for my situation? And some members said I don't need a camber kit or adjust my camber if I am lowering my car with coilovers, is that true? I am getting new wheels with these specs and want it to sit flush/aggressive: 9.5/10.5 +0 225/35/19 245/35/19. Thanks guys, appreciate the help and if you gotta flame go ahead haha

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

also, I don't plan on SLAMMING the car, so coilovers that are expensive ONLY because they allow you to slam the car are not necessary. I know stance slams the car, but I don't want them if they are expensive only for that reason.

sdZ33

iTrader: (39)

From what I seen in another thread, Godspeed coils will do what you are looking for... And they are in your budget brand new! Look them up... I'm going to get them later on...

*EDIT*

You might as well get a rear camber kit at least... You dont want to eat up your tires... Especially if your getting 19's... Plust the SPC kit is not that expensive(Probably the price of a new 19" tire)

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

Thanks bro. I just read the suspension 101 thread, and if I am lowering 1.5 to 2 inches, I should get after market adjustable rear camber arm and Rear Toe bolt. Ie. SPC 72055 and front upper control arms. However, in the thread, it says if I get true coilovers, I would not need spc toe bolts. So kinda confused there. Also, is a rear camber kit the same thing as a rear camber arm? Since the thread never mentioned a camber KIT. Thanks.

SPC 3 degree toe bolts

sdZ33

iTrader: (39)

If you get true coils I think you dont need toe bolts because you wont utilize the spring bucket, but I could be wrong... And yes, camber kit is the same as camber arms... They call it a "kit" because it comes with the camber arms and the toe bolts, but you can just buy just the camber arms w/o the toe bolts...

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

^^ thanks. Btw, you said you were getting godspeed coilovers? Where at?

And I just searched some threads on here about godspeed coilovers, and most said they were junk and prone to cracking. Here is the link: https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...coilovers.html

One guy recommend ksports if you want something cheap like godspeed but better quality.

sdZ33

iTrader: (39)

Yea I read that thread too... I've read many threads with people bashing them... But guess what? Everyone that was bashing them never owned a set to actually make the call of them being bad... I made my decision to get them based on an actual owner of these CO's...

I think Godspeed is located in LA... google them and you should be able to find their website...

Ziggyrama

iTrader: (15)

I encourage you to select your coilovers based on opinions that come from people that actually know a thing about suspension components. People that own brand tend to elevate brand X solely based on the fact that they are the owners of that brand. This is just human psychology.

When selecting a coilover, you really should look at a shock dyno graph to evaluate it. Shock dynoes show what the item is really doing. Concrete, discrete info, not a subjective opinion of a person that thinks they know something about coilovers. TO give you a real world example, I test drove a car a friend of mine was considering buying (I was just there to provide a second opinion). The owner claimed his coilovers rode great and were of high quality (I don't recall the brand). Guess what, after driving for about 100ft, the things were utter garbage. The car was slammed and was hitting bump stops, the valving was either shot or was just terrible from the start. You'd have to pay me money to drive that car. Polar opinions on the same item from 2 different people. A shock dyno would prove and disprove both of our opinions.

Good luck with the selection.

AcidJake75

iTrader: (64)

IF you get true coilovers, you can get adjustable TOE arms (which is why you wouldnt need toe bolts) - if you stick with the spring buckets - then you WILL need the toe bolts. Rear camber kit is the same as camber arm - comes as a pair. Front camber arms are going to cost you - even the cheap ones are still 300 bucks give or take. I just sold some toe bolts for 25 bucks shipped so Im sure you can find them CHEAP. Also the rear camber arms are cheap too.. I would get all that BEFORE getting coils IMO - that way you dont go through tires like a madman...

I hope this helps some..Im glad your doing your homework vs posting later that your tires wore out in a month cause your camber was "maxxed" out..

Also MDU coilovers are $750 brand new..FYI...

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

I'm confused

You say your not concerned about comfort, yet you mention two brands that are cheap and you think offer "good comfort".





Based on what you want, I would go with Tanabe Pro S-OC
$855
Quality manufactuer
Does not use stupid high spring stiffness
Drop range is within what your looking for
http://www.tanabe-usa.com/s0c.asp?id=6

Avoid Megan at all costs, I ran them as a test, worst suspension I have ever tested. Did not matter where you set them, it was garbage. Best thing, no the only thing good about them was the upper mounts, relatively quiet for a pillowball.

Just to say it, while I'm not a fan of BcRacing because they made the Megan product, I'd get them before Godspeed, F&F or Ksport.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

You need coilovers, a 1 1/4 drop is no gap with proper tires, since your running front tires on the rear of your car you will have more gap and need to lower the car 1 3/4 to 2 inches. Your ride is going to suck, that happens anytime you slam a low car (pretty much anything more than 1 inch is slamming a low sitting sports car)

Godspeed, they couldn't give me parts. I've already seen one of their swaybars break (normal street driving ) and a set of their camber arms fold (mid corner on the race track, ddn't hit anything)

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

My ride is going to suck? It that just because of coilovers? Or are you refering to my wheel setup and coilovers?

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

Gsedan35, what I meant was, although I am not TOO worried about comfort, I don't want coilovers that are so bad it is painful to drive. Like Ziggyrama said, I don't mind dropping the car and sacrificing some ride quality, but I dont want the ride to be horrible.

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the help. One more question. You said rear camber arms are the same as a rear camber kit, and they come as a pair. What do you mean by coming as a pair? What and what? Also, are control arms the same thing as a camber kit and camber arms? Or are front CONTROL arms different? So many different terms, I feel like there are soooo many items involved in just getting coilovers. And to clairfy, assuming I am getting true coilovers, I would just need rear camber arms(rear camber kit), and adjustable toe arms, and a front camber arm which is expensive, is that right? And I need all these just for coilovers.

Someone said I wouldn't need to deal with all the camber and issues if my ride is dropped low enough because it will camber itself, what does that refer to? Sorry and thanks.

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

And from the threads and for sale threads I have read, I am assuming 350z coilovers work for the g35 also?

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

Acid Jake, I found this link on ebay selling mdu coilovers:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MDU-N...Q5fAccessories
They look like true coilovers and it says the spring rate is 5/4kg front and rear respectively. It also says the heavier the springs, the stiffer they are. 5/4 seems pretty low compared to the other springs rates I have seen on here, so is that ok? The pic also shows a slammed car with the coilovers, so these slam the car and provide soft drivability?

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

^^ not true coilovers. Still debating between true and oem style. Doing my hw right now to see which one i like.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

the point is, don't look to just spend $800 because that is what you have today - it pays to save a bit more and buy something worth having, vs shooting your wad on day 1 just to get something in the car..and later regret it. Or, if you're the type who likes doing things 2 x, then proceed at will

There is ALOT of absolute crap out there.....and several good options which don't break the bank

(ZzzzzZ)

iTrader: (1)

Yes I know. I am in no rush to purchase the cheapest coilovers. Even if I had 10k to spend, I don't want to purchase 2k or 3k coilovers. I just wanted to know some quality coilovers that are around1k or under USED. I know stance, hks, tein are quality. But if megan/godspeed/k sport/mdu, the cheaper end ones, are good and cheap, then thats good too.

I am thinking of going for either mdu or stance but heard they are not that great in terms of comfort.

ocdz

iTrader: (11)

Why spend 1k on USED coils? I spent very near that mark on NEW Stance GR+ Pro true coils. Some of their other options are less than a g brand new. Check out the vendor classifieds this stuff is always on sale somewhere.

Edit: I have about a 2 inch drop and unless you are on divided concrete the ride is actually not bad.