I bought a '03 350z last summer. It has 89k miles on it. Sometimes when I step on the brake, i hear a griding noise. This doesnt happen every time, but I assume that means my brakes are going out?

What is a fair price I should expect to pay to have brakes/rotors/etc replaced? I have no idea what all is involved with replacing brakes, but I dont want to be taken for a sucker.

Also, would it be recommended that I buy brake pads/rotors/etc and just take it to a shop to replace, or rely on them to use their stock parts?

 

Price you pay depends on parts you buy. Labor should only be two hours at the most replacing front rotors and pads. Unless of course something broke in the process.

 

will i need 'special' brakes for my car? or can i trust whatever they have at like mieneke?

 

Since your in the market for new brakes, you can upgrade your lines, fluid, rotors and pads ( if you wish) I just had my brakes upgraded Hawk HPS pads, R1 Concepts Eline rotors, stoptech SS lines and ATE Super Blue fluid.

Everything including install was about 700.00. Vendors on here have some very good prices.

 

my car is stock. I have no plans on ever racing it or anything like that. I just drive it around town and to school.

What benefit will upgraded brakes give me for day to day use?

How long will those parts last before they need replacing?

Is there additional maintenance required with that stuff vs getting just traditional brake parts?

 

Couple benefits are, of course, better stopping power ( you never know when youll need that!) pads generate less to no dust making it easier to clean the wheels. rotors, depending on the type you get (drilled/slotted or either), could last longer than stock or oem replacements. Just know slotted or drilled rotors cannot be resurfaced.
Nothing is wrong with OEM replacements. Its certainly cheaper. Just a matter of preference. For you I would keep it stock, unless you wannna stop better than your stock will allow.

 

Then study and learn about brakes here. If a shop says "You need to replace..." you say "Let me see."

Bring-your-own parts can be costly. Some shops charge a surcharge for bring-your-own parts.

 

I am not a fan of chains such as mieneke but...

Shops will install non-OEM replacement parts. Yes they are suitable for the street.

 

Honestly, I would just buy your own pads (Hawk ceramic or Akebono ceramic) and take them to your preferred shop for installation. I wouldn't trust other pads just because they will probably dust your wheels horribly.

 

Cause dusty brakes are very important

 

i just paid 169 bucks shipped for DECENT quality cross drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads on good ol ebay. They are chamfered, zinc coated, and are all heat treated and spec for the car. Brakemotive. Done.
its brakes, they will all need to be routinely replaced. I dont over pay. pointless.

 

Remember:

Brake rotors must always be indexed for runout. It is specifically written in black and white on the FSM.

Just because most people on the internet doesn't know how to do it or your local shops do not perform this critical of step does not mean you can get away without performing the step.

Indexing rotors for runout prolongs the life of the rotors and pads, and prevent brake shimmy for miles to come. I have a lot of people come ask me for shimmy and brake grinding noise diagnostic. 9 out of 10 are caused by excessive runout.

 

Since I don't track my car and every pad I've ever tried effectively stops my car... yeah dusting is all I care about.

 

Most likely.

I paid about $400 for premium rotors from R1. $130 for hawk pads. $15 for a quart of ATE Super Blue. $4 for the brake grease from Advance.

If I remember correctly...You grab a 21mm socket and remove your rim, grab a 17 for the front caliper and remove two bolts, 21 for the bracket and remove two bolts. Rear is a 14 for the caliper and 17 for the bracket. I can swap my pads/rotors in about two hours in my driveway.

I'd price it both ways and figure it out that way. We can't really help you too much as shop prices can vary greatly based on region.

 

I did the whole install myself (only front):

ProjectMU street pads - $120
Centric premium rotors - $55 a piece
Brake fluid flush with Motul racing fluid - $70
Miscellaneous lube and brake cleaner - $5

I had all my own tools necessary for the job. It was a very easy install, the hardest part was getting the old rotors off the hub. I love my set, absolutely no squeaks, no break dust, and after 10k miles, no rotor warping at all.

 

thank you folks for all chiming in. I am a complete novice to cars and I'm trying to navigate this site to learn more about my car (although most topics are way above my head). At this point, I am NOT at all comfortable doing the work myself, so I will be relying on a shop to do so.

I learned was that it doesnt really matter what brake pads/rotors/etc I use, they should all be okay for normal driving, but I should insist that the rotors, if they need to be changed, should be indexed, right?

is that something they normally dont do?

 

I like OEM pad performance but they are filthy. Members often critique pad dust. Read and study here.

 

Minimum rotor thickness is stamped on the side of the rotor. As I mentioned, if you are told that the rotors need to be replaced, you say “Show me.”

BTW ask for a shop recommendation in your regional forum. After 3 years you should have a mechanic who knows your car.

 

One other comment OP, some have suggested Motul and ATE Super blue brake fluids. You do not need these high temp brake fluids for everyday use, period. They are only really necessary to prevent the fluid from boiling and causing decreased pedal performance for autocross, track time, or maybe some hardcore mountain driving. Any common DOT 3 brake fluid will suffice for you. No need to pay extra unless you like that extra confidence. Personally I run ATE, but that's only because I autox.