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Rotora BBK break in steps

Old May 19, 2011 | 07:59 AM
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Default Rotora BBK break in steps

Soon will be replacing my complete brembo brakes to a brand new Rotora 6pot/4pot 14" BBK (floating rotors). What steps shall I follow to break them in in a proper way? Dunno if there's an instructions included in the kit's boxes, or if it has been posted somewhere here before.

Need your experience with that guys

Thanks
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Old May 19, 2011 | 08:12 AM
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Standard bed in process, or just drive
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Old May 19, 2011 | 02:07 PM
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are you gonna sell ur brembos?
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Old May 19, 2011 | 04:55 PM
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Generally brakes are not broken in, pads are bed in. Select your pads, go to the manufactures web site for more help.
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Old May 20, 2011 | 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by nismo1234
are you gonna sell ur brembos?
Yes I'm gonna sell my brembos

Originally Posted by davidv
Generally brakes are not broken in, pads are bed in. Select your pads, go to the manufactures web site for more help.
I think rotors also need to be broken in, right?
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Old May 20, 2011 | 10:09 AM
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I'm lazy so I copy-pasted, but essentially:

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.
So unless otherwise specified by Rotora, drive normally with no hard braking or no riding the brakes. I dont want to say "do it for this long" because I don't want to give incorrect information - so I would suggest calling Rotora and asking them what the recommend.
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