well i need some rear camber arms and gonna get some SPC toe bolts to go with them.

was wondering if there are any upside to getting the SPL rear camber arms in stead of the SPC ones.

worth the extra $100?

thanks!

 

i will add my 2 cents.. depends.

I mean, are you REALLY tracking your car in events?
I bought a set of DECENT ( ie, not just the cheapest ones) set off ebay, and then bought a toe delete bolt kit.. i spent 130 bucks, 80 bucks and 120 for a good alignment. No squeaks, no problems, camber and toe are dialed in... its really a simple part, so IMO, id say NO , not worth overpaying for that part.. uncommon for the Z btw.. take the cheaper freebies when they there.. they dont come often on our cars as you surely know.

 

good 2 cents!

keep them coming!

 

I have SPC and like them. Good quality build.

 

SPL's are much more satisfying. It's also good to support such a 350 oriented company. If more people bought SPL they could possibly lower prices. I have the SPL mid-links too and they're almost too nice to put on the car. Only downside to SPL is the bearings kick cars up a few classes in SCCA.

 

it depends

the SPL offer much nicer bushings, more adjustment, and are lighter

the SPC/Eibach use rubber bushings (still very good, but not a bearing ala SPL), not quite as much adjustment and are less expensive

 

SPL's are quality. However I'm content with my Battle Versions.

 

SPL is high end race quality parts, very very nice, but...... The average street car does not need them.

I do have a full SPL parts rear suspension.

 

i think i will have to go with SPC rear camber arms.

i wont be tracking the car or anything. just some aggresive driving here and there.


last question! any comparison between the SPC and EIBACH rear camber arms?


seems like eibach is cheaper.

 

IIRC the Eibach's are just rebranded SPC's.

 

Hmmm I see. Can anyone verify??

 

Search a little bit if you don't trust what he said.

 

They are the same.

I <3 my SPC's.

 

i believe also that its the TOE arm ( upper arm) that has either rubber or metal bushings/bearings... if you are talking strictly camber bars, most aftermarket ( even the cheapest of ebay ones) use metal only.. the quality of which i cannot attest to.

if youre dropped 1-2 inches, just run a simple lower camber bar and the 80 dollar toe delete bolts and spend the brunt of your cash to get it aligned at a race shop.. like a full string up. Someone who will adjust suspension components also while they aligning everything. makes a GIANT difference. IMO and in my personal experience

Ryan ( aka Baller bolts) did mine.. took him a looong time to do it to, but did a great job.

 

each of the camber arm and toe arm have bushings on one end. Some brands use a metal bearing, some use a rubber bushing. All will have some sort of sleeve (metal) where the bolt passes through

 

Sorry for the noob question but what are these 80 dollar toe-delete bolts you guys are talking about? Is that the same thing as the eccentric lock-out bolts? I thought you could only use those if you went with true coilovers and got toe-arms.

 

bump this ^ i have never heard of this either? i was just going to use the SPC toe bolts.

 

Time to re-read the Suspension 101 sticky.
Reading the above two posts have me all confused about the arms now

 

There is no such thing as a lockout bolt. There is a lockout washer - this takes an otherwise eccentric bolt (one that has a range of motion to it, allowing you to adjust a cerain degree range of adjustment) and makes it so that the bolt cannot be adjusted at all. These washers are used by guys who have replaced the factory arms with aftermarket ones and who no longer will use an eccentric bolt to adjust either camber or toe. The theory is that an eccentric bolt, by it's nature, has a range of motion to it, and can 'move' over time. The reality is, that if you use the template supplied with the SPC/Eibach/SPL camber arms, torque to spec, and are not using full out race tires on a track, the liklihood of them moving is next to nill. This car, and most cars on the market, come with such eccentric bolts from the factory, they just have a narrower range of motion than the aftermarket ones

For those running dedicated camber AND toe arms, the lockout washers are a nice, inexpensive addition, because there is no need to have an eccentric bolt and adjustable arms. However, it would require you to really have BOTH adjustable camber and toe arms, which tends to be people who either have 1. a true rear coilover setup and/or 2. a full out track car

 

Sorry, thanks for clarifying. But what is bmccann101 talking about then?

"just run a simple lower camber bar and the 80 dollar toe delete bolts and spend the brunt of your cash to get it aligned at a race shop."

Are the "80 dollar toe delete bolts" he is talking about the same thing as the lock-out washer, or is it something completely different? Is he just assuming the OP has true coilovers and a toe-arm?