downforce

Resolute

Thanks, you are like Yoda!

That all made complete sense. I was at first going to increase rear spring rate and a softer rear sway because of conventional wisdom. Now I better understand how the Z specifically, has such a different platform and tuning to start with. "All the ingredients are there for the Z to have a world-class handling car." I like that part! Even if I am just taking it for some spirited driving on some canyon road, I know that if I choose I can have the confidence to track it and with experience over time be a competitive driver.

I have since test driven a 2007 350Z. Here’s my review. https://my350z.com/forum/showpost.ph...postcount=1275

It is obvious that the Z was well thought out built solid from the start. So instead of changing a lot of components right away, I think that I’ll just drive it and get used to it, and enjoy it, then make subtle changes in the direction that we’ve been talking about. It’s a little easier on the pocketbook that way also! No doubt in time I will have a customized well tuned driving machine.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the compliment, I'm glad I could be of some help. But, I think you're the smart one here. I think the very best thing you can do is exactly as you said, keep it stock for now and get a good handle on the way the suspension reacts to your driving style. The stock suspension will understeer to be safe, but changing one component at a time will give you the ability to really see what direction you want to go. Plus, pushing the stock suspension to 10/10ths may really impress you with it's stock ability and show you how different it behaves at the limit compared to how it feels just pushing it hard around town. My recommendation is to add a LSD, or change it out if you have one, with a clutch or Quaiffe before anyhting else. This will, as you know, change the characteristic of the car. By doing this first, you'll be in a better position to alter the suspension to compliment the LSD change for a more comprehensive set-up.
In any case, happy driving!
Will

sixsigmalarry

iTrader: (8)

Currently, I have a set of H&R springs on route (1.3'' frt and 1'' rear drop). I know the spring rates are not posted or available, but I've had them for other cars in my past and was VERY pleased with them.

In addition to the H&R's, I'm thinking about ordering Tokico struts. Is this wise or is another crand preferred for Z's?

Also, I'm assuming I'll need a camber kit too-right? Who sells good camber kits for our cars?

Anything else I should consider purchasing? I'm going to do the suspension this weekend-can't wait, so any advise is WELCOME!

Thanks!
Larry

HARRYPOTTER

iTrader: (2)

Hey what's up...some good info here I just ordered all of my suspension components that I thought would make my car solid...but i'm new to the suspension tuning world....here are my cars' specs:

Front wheels: 19x10
Rear wheels: 19x13
400 HP

Parts that were ordered:
Tein Drift spec suspension

Tein EDFC

Tein Tie Rods

Tein Tie Rod Ends

Cusco Upper A-arm

Nismo Front Sway bar

GT Spec Lower Rear tie bar

JIC Front upper Strut Bar

thank goodness I can install all these things myself so I can save alot of money, but the tuning of the suspension is what I'm worried about.

03aeroZ

iTrader: (11)

if someone has an 03 that is a daily driver, but they want just a little stiffer ride and don't mind a small drop...what would be the most important things to replace (like top 5 or 6 in order)? want to stiffen up the ride a bit but don't want to spend a thousand $$ and i don't track the car. thanks for any help

DanielW

iTrader: (27)

is there any suspension system that lets you adjust the ride height from inside the car?

Blazemaster

iTrader: (24)

Can someone with the knowledge shed some light on picking the right spring and shocks combo? I've read somewhere that stiffness from the springs and shocks should be matched to compliment each other. So what do I look for in the specs of the springs and shocks to get them matched up?

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Only combo I would not run would be Koni shocks with Tokico D-spec springs or Tanabe NF210. And Tokico D-spec with Nismo T2 springs.

Otherwise pick the springs based on drop height, linear or progressive and stiffness vs oem. Shock wise pick the shock that has the dampning adjustment system you find the most beneficial at the price pont you can justify. Meaning we are not talking about Bilstein HD, Kyb GR2 or Tokico HP for use with lowering springs, we are talking about Koni sport and Tokico D-spec.

Do not forget the Nismo shock and spring setup.

Sensi09

It's probably been mentioned, but what's wrong with matching the konis with d-spec springs or NF210s?

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Not enough compression dampning (stiffness on bump) from the Koni's, and not enough spring rate to keep you off the bump stops in the front. And that's even though the D-spec springs have more stiffness vs the NF210's. I ran the D-spec springs with Koni shocks so that's where I'm comming from, no way a softer spring with a simular drop is going to be better off. Oh and I was on much shorter then oem bump stop's too, modified Koni bump stops to be exact.

Matching the D-spec springs with Tokico D-spec shocks would allow you to set the shocks at a level where they are giving out more stiffness on compression or bump vs the Koni shocks.

enuff4life

iTrader: (9)

what does the control arm/ camber/ toe kit does?
and why people usually talke front for Control arm
and rear for camber/toe kit?

toy4two

whats a good shock to buy for a daily driver that has no plans for track/auto=x, my new to me Z is just too bouncy for daily driving, I have 70,000 miles so I guess the shocks must be blown, I've never driven such a bouncy car on smooth roads.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Control arm= Front upper control arm, when aftermarket and adjustable it's the only possible way to adjust front camber. Shop carefully, not all kits are make the same or as adjustable.

Front toe is a factory adjustment, nothing aftermarket exists for this reason.


Rear camber/toe kits=

Adjustable camber arm.
Oem camber arm, with a elongated cam bolt for more throw or adjustment (sold by SPC and Eibach).

Adjustable toe arm
(not a true statement, it's a adjustable radius arm and it's trying to adjust toe in a location other then where the oem suspension adjusts tow from.)

Elongated toe cam bolt.
Offers additional toe control at the oem location (sold by SPC and Eibach)

Battle Version adjustable toe arm
THIS IS NOT A ADJUSTABLE RADIUS ARM! And you HAVE to have a truecoilover setup that does NOT run the rear springs in the oem location. This part replaces the lower control arm. http://www.battleversion.com/350zRear.htm

SPL pro rear mid links (contact SPL and ask if this arm has more toe control then oem)
Also replaces the lower control arm, but retains the oem rear spring location.

Go to the bottom of the page when you click the link below
http://www.splparts.com/Parts/Z33/Su...nk/default.asp

toy4two

What are the factory camber / toe settings on the NISMO edition Z?

mw9

iTrader: (51)

I might be getting a set of 350evo swaybars. For now I have stock springs. On stock springs what do you guys recommend for the front/rear swaybar settings and what springs would you recommend latter on down the road with these swaybars.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

med/med

Seeing that you have a 2003, Hotchkis unless you also upgrade your shocks, which I would definately recommend at which point add S-tech and RSR to the list.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Yes.

Besides air and other systems not really ment for a sports car.

Top Secret coilovers equipped with the Roberuta Cup kit.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Good question, does the 2007 350Z FSM cover the Nismo edition? Or does it have it's own FSM? In either case specs would be published their.

ghost

iTrader: (1)

If I drop my car with GF210's, do I need to do anything else other than an alignment?

Los350Z

iTrader: (2)

When it comes to suspension there are alot of things that have to be taken into consideration... for example... ever wonder why (a BMW or Benz for example) happen to have a negative camber ..?? I would have to say because the cars are built for autobahn conditions... if u think about it as ure rear tires are pushing the car forward the traction or friction will straighten ure camber out for u...its not so hard to imagine if u take your jounce and rebound as you stop and go.its easy to see how acceleration can throw your "camber" off.... i guess my point is that u really have to know and tweak your set up into what u are building... for example a car built for drift (true drift) will have camber and toe settings that would be completely opposite and almost seem crazy for a normal daily driver... not only would u go through tires but I would imagine it to be uncomfortalbe as hell.. if you build a car for drag... who cares how it enters corners..thats in my own opinion.. u have to know what u want from your z before u start buying parts for suspension... honestly i feel as though suspension should be the last thing that u purchase...because after you have ure set up now u can purchase ure suspension for your overal build.. now if u go to mynismo.com ull see that tein (for example) has several different types of suspension... you can go crazy trying to compare suspension within its own company let alone a whole market... I use my Z as a daily driver... but what really interested me to the Z was its natural ability of being a great drift car and i do have a couple questions in this post... does anyone have the Tein drift susp. and if so hows the driveability??and my other ques is for Resolute... what are u building of ure Z and what suspension do u have lol...u seem to know so much i'm wondering if u make ure own suspension in ure basement or somethin lol...i hope i made some sense cause its late...