Please help educate me on pads/rotors
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Please help educate me on pads/rotors
First off, relevent car info:
2007 350z NISMO
40,000 miles
Original rotors (i bought the car used)
I went by a shop today and asked if they could put my new brake pads on for me. (Hawk HPS). They told me that I should replace my rotors aswell if they are stock because the new pads would cause my car to, "shake like hell." Is this true? is it time for new rotors after 40k miles? If so, what kind of rotors should I look for?
EDIT: I did some searching and read that it is good to either get new rotors or get them resurfaced every time you replace the brake pads. That's fine with me, and I guess I'd like to replace the rotors. I just don't know what I should get.
Thanks for helpin' a noob guys!
2007 350z NISMO
40,000 miles
Original rotors (i bought the car used)
I went by a shop today and asked if they could put my new brake pads on for me. (Hawk HPS). They told me that I should replace my rotors aswell if they are stock because the new pads would cause my car to, "shake like hell." Is this true? is it time for new rotors after 40k miles? If so, what kind of rotors should I look for?
EDIT: I did some searching and read that it is good to either get new rotors or get them resurfaced every time you replace the brake pads. That's fine with me, and I guess I'd like to replace the rotors. I just don't know what I should get.
Thanks for helpin' a noob guys!
Last edited by Mike Anthony; 09-19-2011 at 11:15 AM.
#2
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Install the pads, bed them in, see if it shakes. Will take you 45 minutes to do it yourself.
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I think I'm just going to replace the rotors
Any specific ones anyone would recommend?
What I've seen that I'm interested in so far:
Powerstop
R1 Concept
Brembo
Any suggestions?
Any specific ones anyone would recommend?
What I've seen that I'm interested in so far:
Powerstop
R1 Concept
Brembo
Any suggestions?
#4
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First off, relevent car info:
2007 350z NISMO
40,000 miles
Original rotors (i bought the car used)
I went by a shop today and asked if they could put my new brake pads on for me. (Hawk HPS). They told me that I should replace my rotors aswell if they are stock because the new pads would cause my car to, "shake like hell." Is this true? is it time for new rotors after 40k miles? If so, what kind of rotors should I look for?
EDIT: I did some searching and read that it is good to either get new rotors or get them resurfaced every time you replace the brake pads. That's fine with me, and I guess I'd like to replace the rotors. I just don't know what I should get.
Thanks for helpin' a noob guys!
2007 350z NISMO
40,000 miles
Original rotors (i bought the car used)
I went by a shop today and asked if they could put my new brake pads on for me. (Hawk HPS). They told me that I should replace my rotors aswell if they are stock because the new pads would cause my car to, "shake like hell." Is this true? is it time for new rotors after 40k miles? If so, what kind of rotors should I look for?
EDIT: I did some searching and read that it is good to either get new rotors or get them resurfaced every time you replace the brake pads. That's fine with me, and I guess I'd like to replace the rotors. I just don't know what I should get.
Thanks for helpin' a noob guys!
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Gotta admit, I don't know. But, after inspecting them I can feel that there is a decent lip around the outside of them, probably 1/16th of an inch, and they are getting kinda thin (to my knowledge, I don't have any experience with this.) And to be honest I don't really like the stopping power of my car at all, whether it be the pads or the rotors. I wouldn't mind upgrading to something better.
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Gotta admit, I don't know. But, after inspecting them I can feel that there is a decent lip around the outside of them, probably 1/16th of an inch, and they are getting kinda thin (to my knowledge, I don't have any experience with this.) And to be honest I don't really like the stopping power of my car at all, whether it be the pads or the rotors. I wouldn't mind upgrading to something better.
once or twice depending on how they drove.More than likely,rotors resurfaced.
Who are you taking your car to?Is this a shop that is familiar with a Z?
If you wish to upgrade,there are many options.You will probably want to look at a slotted rotor for the OEM Brembos on your car.Possibly you may have a shop that will install if you get the parts?If so,and if time--the car is driveable,You may want to contact Z1 MOTORSPORTS IN ATLANTA(Carrolton,Ga).They can
hook you up with the right upgrade for your Nismo.
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After 40k miles,the previous owner/owners must replaced the pads at least
once or twice depending on how they drove.More than likely,rotors resurfaced.
Who are you taking your car to?Is this a shop that is familiar with a Z?
If you wish to upgrade,there are many options.You will probably want to look at a slotted rotor for the OEM Brembos on your car.Possibly you may have a shop that will install if you get the parts?If so,and if time--the car is driveable,You may want to contact Z1 MOTORSPORTS IN ATLANTA(Carrolton,Ga).They can
hook you up with the right upgrade for your Nismo.
once or twice depending on how they drove.More than likely,rotors resurfaced.
Who are you taking your car to?Is this a shop that is familiar with a Z?
If you wish to upgrade,there are many options.You will probably want to look at a slotted rotor for the OEM Brembos on your car.Possibly you may have a shop that will install if you get the parts?If so,and if time--the car is driveable,You may want to contact Z1 MOTORSPORTS IN ATLANTA(Carrolton,Ga).They can
hook you up with the right upgrade for your Nismo.
how much does resurfacing cost?
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resurfacing = cheap....good bet....believe they just put it on a lathe (right tool/spelling??)
However if rotors are worn past the tolerance point then resurfacing won't be an option. You may also find that you may be able to resurface one or two but not the others. Could prolly measure yourself with the proper tool.
I am also curious about pads....anyone have any opinions on what the least brake dust producing pads are? Assuming some sort of ceramics....hawk or stoptech?
However if rotors are worn past the tolerance point then resurfacing won't be an option. You may also find that you may be able to resurface one or two but not the others. Could prolly measure yourself with the proper tool.
I am also curious about pads....anyone have any opinions on what the least brake dust producing pads are? Assuming some sort of ceramics....hawk or stoptech?
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hmm brakes.
pads never last me anywhere near 40k miles. they should be charged on a sport drivne car like ours that is ehavy as sin once i year i say, at least once every two years.
I also believe ppl who buy expensive breaks that are not race drivers tend to use them less. down shifting more etc.
I buy cheap ( not unsafe) rotors and ceramic pads.. dont care about dust, its all relative... and replace them often.. AND i beat on them instead or my engine.
Just foood for thought.
I pay 169 bucks for all four rotors and pads shipped. They are just as good as the powerslots ive had in the past w Hawk pads. No difference in look or machining.
ebay, brakemotive.. good stuff, good grade metal, zinc coated, no weird rust etc.
Pads are responsive and last a decent amount of time. Im on my third set from the same place. Always fresh.
pads never last me anywhere near 40k miles. they should be charged on a sport drivne car like ours that is ehavy as sin once i year i say, at least once every two years.
I also believe ppl who buy expensive breaks that are not race drivers tend to use them less. down shifting more etc.
I buy cheap ( not unsafe) rotors and ceramic pads.. dont care about dust, its all relative... and replace them often.. AND i beat on them instead or my engine.
Just foood for thought.
I pay 169 bucks for all four rotors and pads shipped. They are just as good as the powerslots ive had in the past w Hawk pads. No difference in look or machining.
ebay, brakemotive.. good stuff, good grade metal, zinc coated, no weird rust etc.
Pads are responsive and last a decent amount of time. Im on my third set from the same place. Always fresh.
#11
My general rule of thumb is two sets of pads can be worn, then consider changing the rotor. I'm on the second set on my car, Hawk also, and no signs of warpage. I've heard good things about Callahan Pads too.
According to the latest commercial that makes me laugh, "where will you be when you have to change your pad?"
According to the latest commercial that makes me laugh, "where will you be when you have to change your pad?"
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resurfacing = cheap....good bet....believe they just put it on a lathe (right tool/spelling??)
However if rotors are worn past the tolerance point then resurfacing won't be an option. You may also find that you may be able to resurface one or two but not the others. Could prolly measure yourself with the proper tool.
I am also curious about pads....anyone have any opinions on what the least brake dust producing pads are? Assuming some sort of ceramics....hawk or stoptech?
However if rotors are worn past the tolerance point then resurfacing won't be an option. You may also find that you may be able to resurface one or two but not the others. Could prolly measure yourself with the proper tool.
I am also curious about pads....anyone have any opinions on what the least brake dust producing pads are? Assuming some sort of ceramics....hawk or stoptech?
Hawk HPS Pads
hmm brakes.
pads never last me anywhere near 40k miles. they should be charged on a sport drivne car like ours that is ehavy as sin once i year i say, at least once every two years.
I also believe ppl who buy expensive breaks that are not race drivers tend to use them less. down shifting more etc.
I buy cheap ( not unsafe) rotors and ceramic pads.. dont care about dust, its all relative... and replace them often.. AND i beat on them instead or my engine.
Just foood for thought.
I pay 169 bucks for all four rotors and pads shipped. They are just as good as the powerslots ive had in the past w Hawk pads. No difference in look or machining.
ebay, brakemotive.. good stuff, good grade metal, zinc coated, no weird rust etc.
Pads are responsive and last a decent amount of time. Im on my third set from the same place. Always fresh.
pads never last me anywhere near 40k miles. they should be charged on a sport drivne car like ours that is ehavy as sin once i year i say, at least once every two years.
I also believe ppl who buy expensive breaks that are not race drivers tend to use them less. down shifting more etc.
I buy cheap ( not unsafe) rotors and ceramic pads.. dont care about dust, its all relative... and replace them often.. AND i beat on them instead or my engine.
Just foood for thought.
I pay 169 bucks for all four rotors and pads shipped. They are just as good as the powerslots ive had in the past w Hawk pads. No difference in look or machining.
ebay, brakemotive.. good stuff, good grade metal, zinc coated, no weird rust etc.
Pads are responsive and last a decent amount of time. Im on my third set from the same place. Always fresh.
My general rule of thumb is two sets of pads can be worn, then consider changing the rotor. I'm on the second set on my car, Hawk also, and no signs of warpage. I've heard good things about Callahan Pads too.
According to the latest commercial that makes me laugh, "where will you be when you have to change your pad?"
According to the latest commercial that makes me laugh, "where will you be when you have to change your pad?"
I believe I am going to buy some Brembo rotors. I don't know how the previous owner treated the brakes, and I don't want to know. I'm just gonna replace what I can so I know everything is good. Is there anything else I should replace or clean or maintenance while I have the wheels and rotors off?
#14
Mike, brake pads are one thing you need to learn how to change.
On a normal single piston set of disc calipers learn it. It's not hard.
It's a billion times easier to change them on the brembos. I don't care how "mechanically challenged" you might feel. If you can change a tire, you can change disc brake pads. Period.
You want someone to give you a fish or teach you to fish??
On a normal single piston set of disc calipers learn it. It's not hard.
It's a billion times easier to change them on the brembos. I don't care how "mechanically challenged" you might feel. If you can change a tire, you can change disc brake pads. Period.
You want someone to give you a fish or teach you to fish??
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Mike, brake pads are one thing you need to learn how to change.
On a normal single piston set of disc calipers learn it. It's not hard.
It's a billion times easier to change them on the brembos. I don't care how "mechanically challenged" you might feel. If you can change a tire, you can change disc brake pads. Period.
You want someone to give you a fish or teach you to fish??
On a normal single piston set of disc calipers learn it. It's not hard.
It's a billion times easier to change them on the brembos. I don't care how "mechanically challenged" you might feel. If you can change a tire, you can change disc brake pads. Period.
You want someone to give you a fish or teach you to fish??
#16
Nope, nothing special at all. You'll have no problem!
I use a heavy, rubber covered metal mallet/sledge. Never fails for undoing brake bolts. Line it up against your well placed wrench or socket and give it a whack.
Sorry, I still don't see where you said you were inclined. No offense implicated!! Just post back about how silly your concerns were later.
I use a heavy, rubber covered metal mallet/sledge. Never fails for undoing brake bolts. Line it up against your well placed wrench or socket and give it a whack.
Sorry, I still don't see where you said you were inclined. No offense implicated!! Just post back about how silly your concerns were later.
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Nope, nothing special at all. You'll have no problem!
I use a heavy, rubber covered metal mallet/sledge. Never fails for undoing brake bolts. Line it up against your well placed wrench or socket and give it a whack.
Sorry, I still don't see where you said you were inclined. No offense implicated!! Just post back about how silly your concerns were later.
I use a heavy, rubber covered metal mallet/sledge. Never fails for undoing brake bolts. Line it up against your well placed wrench or socket and give it a whack.
Sorry, I still don't see where you said you were inclined. No offense implicated!! Just post back about how silly your concerns were later.
Is there anything else I should replace while I have it apart? Brake lines? Bleed the brakes? I've never done any of that either and don't know if it should be done or not.
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you guys must baby the hell out of your brakes. I go through pads atleast once a year and rotors probably every two and I don't even daily drive the car.
ps my hawk HPS have been "acceptable" for daily driving but after even one or two laps around and auto cross course mine begin fading even with DBA drilled rotors. granted besides pads and rotors the rest of the brake system is stock non brembo, which heat soaks pretty rapidly under even moderately heavy use. that being said, have had other pads in the past that have outperformed these and I will be going with another option in the near future.
just my .02
ps my hawk HPS have been "acceptable" for daily driving but after even one or two laps around and auto cross course mine begin fading even with DBA drilled rotors. granted besides pads and rotors the rest of the brake system is stock non brembo, which heat soaks pretty rapidly under even moderately heavy use. that being said, have had other pads in the past that have outperformed these and I will be going with another option in the near future.
just my .02
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Hawk HPS are not ceramic pads
rotor and pad choice is important - there are several pads that will last a long time, don't emit any crazy dust, and are quiet. Get it wrong, and you end up with a series of compromises - all depends on your goals/motivation
Brembo rotors are excellent - if you need some, let us know (plug time)
http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ng&prodid=3161
with the correct pad choice, you should easily get 80-100k out of them (rotors) again assuming you're driving the car on the street with a reasonable tire
I do anything but baby my brakes - I drive the car the way it should be driven. Granted, I have a brake kit, but I am on their original rotors and pads since installing them early spring of 2007 - and still have over 50 life left on both. It's all about choosing the right pieces. Unfortunately being in the northeast, rust is an issue that souther guys dont have to contend with, and so are wide temperature fluctuations. I unfortunately don't have any interest in working on my car at this point, I'd rather drive it, so for me, the buy cheap/replace often route just doesn't work. For others it does and that's cool
New pads means new fluid. If you don't have stainless lines, they are a nice upgrade for longevity sake, and will give a bit more consistent pedal feel vs factory rubber lines
rotor and pad choice is important - there are several pads that will last a long time, don't emit any crazy dust, and are quiet. Get it wrong, and you end up with a series of compromises - all depends on your goals/motivation
Brembo rotors are excellent - if you need some, let us know (plug time)
http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ng&prodid=3161
with the correct pad choice, you should easily get 80-100k out of them (rotors) again assuming you're driving the car on the street with a reasonable tire
I do anything but baby my brakes - I drive the car the way it should be driven. Granted, I have a brake kit, but I am on their original rotors and pads since installing them early spring of 2007 - and still have over 50 life left on both. It's all about choosing the right pieces. Unfortunately being in the northeast, rust is an issue that souther guys dont have to contend with, and so are wide temperature fluctuations. I unfortunately don't have any interest in working on my car at this point, I'd rather drive it, so for me, the buy cheap/replace often route just doesn't work. For others it does and that's cool
New pads means new fluid. If you don't have stainless lines, they are a nice upgrade for longevity sake, and will give a bit more consistent pedal feel vs factory rubber lines
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 09-20-2011 at 04:33 PM.
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you guys must baby the hell out of your brakes. I go through pads atleast once a year and rotors probably every two and I don't even daily drive the car.
ps my hawk HPS have been "acceptable" for daily driving but after even one or two laps around and auto cross course mine begin fading even with DBA drilled rotors. granted besides pads and rotors the rest of the brake system is stock non brembo, which heat soaks pretty rapidly under even moderately heavy use. that being said, have had other pads in the past that have outperformed these and I will be going with another option in the near future.
just my .02
ps my hawk HPS have been "acceptable" for daily driving but after even one or two laps around and auto cross course mine begin fading even with DBA drilled rotors. granted besides pads and rotors the rest of the brake system is stock non brembo, which heat soaks pretty rapidly under even moderately heavy use. that being said, have had other pads in the past that have outperformed these and I will be going with another option in the near future.
just my .02