Please help educate me on pads/rotors
#22
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From: Springfield, VA
Hawk HPS are not ceramic pads
rotor and pad choice is important - there are several pads that will last a long time, don't emit any crazy dust, and are quiet. Get it wrong, and you end up with a series of compromises - all depends on your goals/motivation
Brembo rotors are excellent - if you need some, let us know (plug time)
http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ng&prodid=3161
with the correct pad choice, you should easily get 80-100k out of them (rotors) again assuming you're driving the car on the street with a reasonable tire
I do anything but baby my brakes - I drive the car the way it should be driven. Granted, I have a brake kit, but I am on their original rotors and pads since installing them early spring of 2007 - and still have over 50 life left on both. It's all about choosing the right pieces. Unfortunately being in the northeast, rust is an issue that souther guys dont have to contend with, and so are wide temperature fluctuations. I unfortunately don't have any interest in working on my car at this point, I'd rather drive it, so for me, the buy cheap/replace often route just doesn't work. For others it does and that's cool
New pads means new fluid. If you don't have stainless lines, they are a nice upgrade for longevity sake, and will give a bit more consistent pedal feel vs factory rubber lines
rotor and pad choice is important - there are several pads that will last a long time, don't emit any crazy dust, and are quiet. Get it wrong, and you end up with a series of compromises - all depends on your goals/motivation
Brembo rotors are excellent - if you need some, let us know (plug time)
http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model...ng&prodid=3161
with the correct pad choice, you should easily get 80-100k out of them (rotors) again assuming you're driving the car on the street with a reasonable tire
I do anything but baby my brakes - I drive the car the way it should be driven. Granted, I have a brake kit, but I am on their original rotors and pads since installing them early spring of 2007 - and still have over 50 life left on both. It's all about choosing the right pieces. Unfortunately being in the northeast, rust is an issue that souther guys dont have to contend with, and so are wide temperature fluctuations. I unfortunately don't have any interest in working on my car at this point, I'd rather drive it, so for me, the buy cheap/replace often route just doesn't work. For others it does and that's cool
New pads means new fluid. If you don't have stainless lines, they are a nice upgrade for longevity sake, and will give a bit more consistent pedal feel vs factory rubber lines
Stillen offered me DBA 4000's for $330 a pair with free shipping. I've been told by a few that Stillens DBAs are very good. I cannot decide.
EDIT: I just found DBAs or your website aswell, and they're cheaper! So would you recommend DBAs or Brembos?
Last edited by Mike Anthony; 09-20-2011 at 07:01 PM.
#23
both DBA and Brembo are excellent - very good quality iron, that will deal with a wide array of pads
for a street car, with a street oriented pad, either slotted or drilled will work very well, it mainly comes down to the aesthetic choice you like
for a street car, with a street oriented pad, either slotted or drilled will work very well, it mainly comes down to the aesthetic choice you like
#25
Autocross/Road motorsport section has a trackpad database. If you intend to track stay away from slotted or drilled rotors, get blanks. Drilled/slotted have just about zero effect on performance (don't believe the marketing propaganda) and are much more likely to crack/develop micro fractures especially around the drill holes.
#26
#28
if all you're doing is a couple of laps, whatever that means, then none of this stuff matters at all
when you mod the car, you gotta first define what your goals are and your budget to achieve those goals
when you mod the car, you gotta first define what your goals are and your budget to achieve those goals
#29
Autocross/Road motorsport section has a trackpad database. If you intend to track stay away from slotted or drilled rotors, get blanks. Drilled/slotted have just about zero effect on performance (don't believe the marketing propaganda) and are much more likely to crack/develop micro fractures especially around the drill holes.
Drilling holes are for cooling as you increase surface area and allow for a higher rate of convection. I personally believe that it is more effective to install brake ducting than to use drilled rotors, but thats a preference.
If they are quality products, they should be designed to handle the wear on the rotors without developing cracks.