yeah thats what I thought, on the box it said no breaking required. I only checked the front of the rotors, as the caliper was still bolted up. I think im going to do 10 more stops tomorrow and see what happens from there. I pulled the abs fuse infront of the battery and the car wouldnt start so I tried the lamp fuse in the kick panel and it did nothing. If I brake really hard, right before I stop completely the abs will kick in, its a different feeling from what I am experiencing though. If there is air in my system I would be shocked, I have done every method possible and got no bubbles.

 

make sure you are in a very safe place, and SLAM on the brakes. If the car gets slightly loose, and the pedal pulsates and vibrates violently, but you stop...that is completely normal all systems go. Work up to it.

 

I used this as a guide but not to the letter
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ur-brakes.html

 

Im just saying if you do that youll know for sure if abs is working (or not :0 )

 

haha yea thats true, abs definitely comes on if I hit them really hard, my front tires are needing to be replaced soon. The brakes grab hard thought, just was unsure about that wobble. I might take a video of it off the ground, you can hear it spin and then grab and stop the wheel. Im thinking it just the pads and it will work itself out.

 

yeah, I used this off stoptechs website:http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

very similar

 

Good practice when removing or replacing a caliper is to wedge the brake pedal 75% down. This acts like holding your finger over a straw and keeps all the fluid in the lines.

Because you let all the fluid run out you problably need to bench bleed the master cylinder and abs manifold.

You can bleed the system till the cows come home and there's still air up stream.

 

ok, i'll try that too. how exactly do I do that?

 

I installed SS lines at all four corners and replaced all of my fluid without a pressure bleeder over 20k ago and they work great!

 

Wish I could say the same. The brakes feel great as far as pedal pressure and stopping power, they just have that damn wobble to them. I think its the pads honestly but who knows. Im at the point now where Im just gonna drive it and replace the pads later on and see what happens.

 

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...nch/index.html

Also, if your measuring .004" of runout on the rotor. That's almost 3X the max allowable runout per the factory manual (.0014" max).

If you have that kind of wobble on brand new rotors, i'd suggest pulling the rotors and checking the hub - rotor mating surfaces. Rust there can cause the runout, and also check the runout on the hub surface itself.

A .0005" runout on the hub can easily become .004" at the outer diameter of a 14" brake rotor.

 

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...ub-runout.html

My background on Z brake shudder

 

I checked all the surfaces, they looked ok, I think im gonna have to take a closer look. I didnt know the tolerances were that small. It definitely feels like it is a issue with that, not abs or air in the lines. I had no issues with anything before I did this swap, thats whats so frustrating. After spending 2 grand I want it perfect.

 

sorry to hear about all this. but i still have my hawk hp+ if you want em

 

Thanks man, I appreciate it.

 

just to give you guys a update, I have a new set of front rotors coming because I believe they are warped. Hopefully this fixes my issues, if not I have no clue what else to do. Checked them with a micrometer and they looked good, all within .0004.

 

Hopefully that takes care of the problem.

 

 

Sorry to be off topic but did you have brembos on your car ? I have an offer on my stock brembos and was thinking about picking up the akebonos and putting a nice set of pads on them etc.

 

Well i ca't see the graduation on that indicator but if it is a .0001 you have about .0009 total runout. If it is a .0005 you have about .0045.