How many inches are you guys setting your droop to on your rear coilovers. I just redid my ready suspension with the SPL rear midlinks. SPL suggested 1/2" droop. Quick measurements indicated that I've been sitting my Stance OEM style coilovers on the bumpstops for the past 3 years.

Increased the length on the strut almost 1.5" and ended up with a droop of ~.75" for the ride height I set the mid links to.

I've google searched, but you'd be amazed that most of the links come up for RC cars. WTF? I'm setting the car up for the drag strip/hwy rolls.

I basically let the suspension hang and then set the strut just a little higher to keep tension on the spring. That gave me the 3/4" droop. I can go less but not much more.





And some Megan Daniels for good measure

 

well i tried to add NSFW
Mods are FAST in these parts LOL

 

photo is nsfw.... remove photo or update thread title

 

can you define droop?

I am confused.

 

i alrady tried to update the main title but all it did was update the title inside the thread.

droop is the measurement between unloaded suspension and loaded suspension. Basicaly you lift the car and measure how much distance between piston and stop there is. Then compress the suspension with the jack until teh car slightly lifts off the jack stands and remeasure the distance. The difference is droop. This is only critical in OEM style coilover suspension setups. But surprising, very little discussion about it since Stance makes no guidelines.

I really had no idea how to set my struts until i tried to setup my SPL rear midlinks and realized I had set my strut length WAY toooo short. I'm pretty intuitive when it comes to DIY so I can imagine alot of other people could be in the same boat. SPL just gives a generic 1/2" setting but I'm sure that optimized per driving habits.

 

Get it as tight as you can without preloading the spring...1/2" should be fine.

 

Thread title edited...

 

http://cdn.splparts.com/tech/SPLRMLZ33.pdf

Has droop instructions that didn't come with my set. Let me know how noisy your mid links are, my right side makes alot and am not sure if normal yet.

 

i know how to set droop, was more interested in the theories on tuning droop. why is 1/2" recommended over say 3/4 or 1" if the spring isnt getting unloaded and becoming loose.

 

Been trying to find a good thread,

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...ght=rear+droop

there's some good info, but it's giving me a headache

 

If youre setting your car up for drag front droop is more critical than rear droop. That and the ability to adjust your front rebound and rear compression damping.

Plus how are you adjusting droop, by rotating the collar on the threaded perch?

 

I read that thread, best post I found:

Msquared-"I think it's probably worth stating clearly and plainly that in terms of limiting body roll and/or adding roll stiffness to one end of a car, droop limiters don't do anything magically that swaybars or springs or bump stops wouldn't do. All of these devices accomplish the same thing: they add roll stiffness to the end of the car they are on. The only difference is in the progressiveness of their actions and, in the case of bumpstops, the direction of suspension travel in which they act."

In your case you can adjust droop so the point is not about the limiters, rather about the criticality of minute droop settings in most situations.

After our sus assy has reached the end of the spring travel, I think there is very little benefit in allowing for additional travel (dampened or un-dampened). At that point the only weight acting to keep your wheel on the ground is your unsprung mass plus the force of a helper spring if you have one. And again youd have to be close to lifting a wheel or airborne to get there.

The idea is to be on the spring and in the damper at all times.

 

stupid question. So the SPL MID-LINKS just replaces your OEM spring bucket? thats it?

I never understood what they do lol..

 

Yeah, and they have the threaded lower perch so you can corner weight, they accept 2.5 inch ID coilover springs making rate changes more feasible, they use an eccentric lockout and adjust toe from an adjustable rod end so your alignment cant slip, and they are a little lighter than the stock bucket.

 

Forgot to add, they look cool.

 

Only lighter because of the spring, buckets actually heavier. They look too good, its annoying when they get scritched up.

OP, why didn't you use the eccentric lockouts?

SE, you see in the pics why you need the lockouts on the camber arms? Even if they don't slip its just kinda aesthetically annoying.

 

I'm so confused lol

Ok I have swift spec R springs would I able to do the mid-links or are they only for some coilovers or ..?

Don't mean to jack your thread, op, just never understood the concept and wanna clarify.

 

more droop insights:
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/shocktune.html

this might help visualize why to set it right
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQa7PCMRF44

SE-you need 2.5" I.D. springs; smaller than the size for the O.E buckets. Plus you have to get the right length for your height adjustment range.

 

^ where would I find all this stuff?

 

SPL has everything you need, you just need to know what spring rate you want and desired drop.