Coilover Help
#23
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MY350Z.COM
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Bouncy would be a damper problem.
I'm willing to bet they don't rebuild them, just swap out dampers. Same thing BC Racing does.
I hate when i read this, it is complete and total BS. The way the suspension is designed is that the suspension bottoms out on the bump stock before the Upper Control Arm hits the inner fender well. Being a low sitting sports car this happens with very little room to spare. When you install coilovers and thread the shock body down (smaller) you never hit the bump stop and just smash the UCA off the inner fender. Threading the shock body just allows you to remove down travel, but you will never gain extra up travel on this car. Any more up travel and the crossmember will touch down anyhow, so it doesn't matter. So whether you lower but removing preload or damper you will have the same amount of up travel.
BTW its actually a pretty pointless feature. Most high end coilovers do not have this.
Yes i track and daily drove my car for the past 5 years. My new setup actually rides better on the street with stiffer spring rates than my BC's ever did. Its kinda nice having a smooth ride on the street vs the sh$tty dampening the BC's offered.
What makes any of these companies different than any other? Quality control and customer service is the only real big difference between any of these suspension companies. ISC is right in Mass and rebuilds (wither they use new parts or actually rebuild them I dont really care) is right in Mass for $65 a side. Also ISC is going to be revealing shock dyno results on there site soon according to their facebook page, pretty sure none of the other "taiwan/china" companies have gone through and done that.
BTW its actually a pretty pointless feature. Most high end coilovers do not have this.
Right, but didn't he also track his car and therefore put the system under a lot more stress than someone who just daily drives it on the streets?
I'm not trying to argue that BC coilovers are any good for aggressive track use, but that they are a decent solution for a strictly street-driven car.
I'm not trying to argue that BC coilovers are any good for aggressive track use, but that they are a decent solution for a strictly street-driven car.
Last edited by terrasmak; 02-02-2012 at 10:19 AM.
#25
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I dont think i would pay 900 bucks for them, but i got them for cheaper than most people pay for springs lol...hence why i gave them a shot.
if you can find a set for about 600 or less i would consider them. Like i said though they are pretty much good for just slamming your car and stiffening things up a bit. I drift the Z but have not really done any "grip" track time with the coilovers so I think it would be hard to provide adequate information in regards to their performance in THAT sense...
Other than that, they ride somewhat comfortable, i have mine at full stiff, but at full soft they almost feel as soft as my tokiko blue and tanabe NF210 setup that i had prior...
They dont make any noise and they allow me to go pretty damn low. Im happy with em...but i do plan on upgrading sometime this year to something else when i have the money.
Fortune Auto provides shock dyno sheets with all their sales...
#27
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Tein is in a different category. For the price of the BCs, Tein doesn't offer anything with the adjustability OR a monotube damper. They do ride pretty good, though. I'd suggest Tein over all the other stuff mentioned in here so far.
I'd look into Tein and Tanabe coilovers if I were you.
I'd look into Tein and Tanabe coilovers if I were you.
#30
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some things to keep in mind
slammed and daily driver are nearly impossible to peacefully co-exist. So you have to define the compromises you're willing to make
have you budgeted the 1. alignment components (rear camber/toe kit, front a arms, front bushings (lower inner/outer control arms and compression rod as mentioned) that you WILL need to replace as well for that type of ride height? You could easily be talking an extra $1000 to get stuff worth putting on
Are BC coilovers horrendous? No. Are they going to set the world on fire handling wise? No. Do they offer a reasonable level of comfort, and a decent height adjustment range? Yes. Are there better choices? Absolutely - all limited by your budget.
I would disagree with the assesment that 2 way height adjustability is useless...well not disagree, I guess clarify
On some cars it is a far more important feature than on others. A Z is not necessarily one of those cars. Many high end coilovers for this car are still 2 way height adjustable. High end street, high end race, whatever...more than a couple are, and more than a couple aren't. The ones that are not, are using a purpose designed damper housing for the application. The shorter stroke is built into the damper and it's valved as such. Bump stop aside, it's designed from the ground up to prove x amount of stroke and y amount of droop range. Many of the lower priced units that are 2 way height adjustable allow it so that the correct amount of stroke can be maintained when lowering it. This is down to how it's installed, but it can be a useful feature. Now, if you're looking to dump the car on the ground, stroke/travel and droop are, by nature, not part of your lingo, nor do those people care or pay attention to it. These units can be lower priced in part because they are using more standard length housings, etc, vs more purpose built stuff. I've had both kinds. My Cusco Zero2 were 2 way height adjustable, my HKS weren't. My Ohlins were, my Bilstein weren't. I've not found it to end up mattering much either way. But note I haven't used cheap junk either. But yes, lot's of this stuff is all a marketing excercise because it's really the only thing that can separate one copied brand from another. OK, so it has a shock dyno with it perhaps. Quite frankly, so what? What benefit does that offer me? I don't have my own dyno to verify the sheet I'm being given, nor do I have the datalogging tools to critique what changes may need to be made to the dampers when it's rebuild/respring time. So other than another piece of paper in the box, it might as well be stuffed animal. Bilstein didn't give me a dyno sheet. Ohlins didn't give me a dyno sheet. But I can say without question I trust those brands and their expertise in design, engineering and manufacturing on a general scale, to a far greater degree than any of the cheaper ones, including but not limited to the cheaper ones we happen to sell.
slammed and daily driver are nearly impossible to peacefully co-exist. So you have to define the compromises you're willing to make
have you budgeted the 1. alignment components (rear camber/toe kit, front a arms, front bushings (lower inner/outer control arms and compression rod as mentioned) that you WILL need to replace as well for that type of ride height? You could easily be talking an extra $1000 to get stuff worth putting on
Are BC coilovers horrendous? No. Are they going to set the world on fire handling wise? No. Do they offer a reasonable level of comfort, and a decent height adjustment range? Yes. Are there better choices? Absolutely - all limited by your budget.
I would disagree with the assesment that 2 way height adjustability is useless...well not disagree, I guess clarify
On some cars it is a far more important feature than on others. A Z is not necessarily one of those cars. Many high end coilovers for this car are still 2 way height adjustable. High end street, high end race, whatever...more than a couple are, and more than a couple aren't. The ones that are not, are using a purpose designed damper housing for the application. The shorter stroke is built into the damper and it's valved as such. Bump stop aside, it's designed from the ground up to prove x amount of stroke and y amount of droop range. Many of the lower priced units that are 2 way height adjustable allow it so that the correct amount of stroke can be maintained when lowering it. This is down to how it's installed, but it can be a useful feature. Now, if you're looking to dump the car on the ground, stroke/travel and droop are, by nature, not part of your lingo, nor do those people care or pay attention to it. These units can be lower priced in part because they are using more standard length housings, etc, vs more purpose built stuff. I've had both kinds. My Cusco Zero2 were 2 way height adjustable, my HKS weren't. My Ohlins were, my Bilstein weren't. I've not found it to end up mattering much either way. But note I haven't used cheap junk either. But yes, lot's of this stuff is all a marketing excercise because it's really the only thing that can separate one copied brand from another. OK, so it has a shock dyno with it perhaps. Quite frankly, so what? What benefit does that offer me? I don't have my own dyno to verify the sheet I'm being given, nor do I have the datalogging tools to critique what changes may need to be made to the dampers when it's rebuild/respring time. So other than another piece of paper in the box, it might as well be stuffed animal. Bilstein didn't give me a dyno sheet. Ohlins didn't give me a dyno sheet. But I can say without question I trust those brands and their expertise in design, engineering and manufacturing on a general scale, to a far greater degree than any of the cheaper ones, including but not limited to the cheaper ones we happen to sell.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 02-02-2012 at 11:39 AM.
#31
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For ride quality, I can only compare my Stance GR+ coils to stock.
I had stock suspension, got new rims and tires. The drive to and from work on stock suspension with 245/35 & 275/35 tires, was painful on my ***. I could feel every bump, dip, pebble, and stone, on the road.
(My shocks could have been blow, but whatever)
Now that I have my Stance GR+ coils, I feel like I'm on clouds.
You can definitely get the 'flushed' look out of these coils.
But as Z1Performance said.
Being 'slammed' or simply 'lowered' is going to come at a price.
1. You'll have to get an alignment obviously.
2. You'll need new front a-arms and rear camber arms to adjust for camber. Depending on your drop.
3. Scraping isn't fun. It's overrated.
My use-to-be perfect Nismo V2 bumper, is absolutely trashed. Yes it's fiberglass, the biggest mistake possible, but oh well. There are cracks, rips, chips, left and right.
Unless you're baller or don't care, getting aftermarket exterior is a joke. Stay away.
Just my 2cents.
I know you were just asking about coils suggestions, but I felt like the extra information was necessary.
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