Assistance w/ rear diff bushing
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Assistance w/ rear diff bushing
I've gone through the posts about removing the rear diff bushings and i'm at the point that the differential is dropped and i'm trying to put a new Energy bushing in. I'm just trying to install the rear one that points towards the rear of the car. I have a copper pipe that i've tried hammering but no luck. I currently have a hand held malet so nothing huge, do i need a larger one? Im at a loss. After all this work i dont want to have to take it and have the dealer charge me to do the entire subframe. Anyone in SD want to come over and help for food or cash?
#2
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I've gone through the posts about removing the rear diff bushings and i'm at the point that the differential is dropped and i'm trying to put a new Energy bushing in. I'm just trying to install the rear one that points towards the rear of the car. I have a copper pipe that i've tried hammering but no luck. I currently have a hand held malet so nothing huge, do i need a larger one? Im at a loss. After all this work i dont want to have to take it and have the dealer charge me to do the entire subframe. Anyone in SD want to come over and help for food or cash?
#5
New Member
Thread Starter
Sorry guys ive been frantic all day. Its the rear bushing that is in the subframe. It is poly and i have only about 1/4" left to push in. Hammering is out of the question-learned that the hard way. Ive been trying to rig up clamping system and it has worked so far but i need something to have the bushing pushed into on the other side. I picked up some 3" pipe from HDepot but i need a larger washer for it. Will start back up tomorrow. Such a pain! Thanks for the help!
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#10
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The rear stock bushing has a tendency to 'blow', and leak it's silicone fill down the diff, making it's function very lax and inadequate.
I'm literally in the middle of swapping mine out at the moment, diff going back on tomorrow once i've finished smashing the old bushing out.
I'm literally in the middle of swapping mine out at the moment, diff going back on tomorrow once i've finished smashing the old bushing out.
#14
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The streaks on the diff are from the stock bushing, the top and bottom of it are silicone fluid filled.
The result of which, is that the diff is no longer held in the right place during acceleration and cornering. Results are not a great back end feeling when pushed round corners and massive amounts of wheel hop when the wheels break loose under acceleration.
To much of that lot and you'll be wearing all sorts of things out, gears, shafts, sub frame bushings.
The result of which, is that the diff is no longer held in the right place during acceleration and cornering. Results are not a great back end feeling when pushed round corners and massive amounts of wheel hop when the wheels break loose under acceleration.
To much of that lot and you'll be wearing all sorts of things out, gears, shafts, sub frame bushings.
#15
New Member
I caught this video on Youtube a while back and figured that when my diff bushing goes, I'm going to fix it with the Nissan Solutions tool.
#16
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The whiteline KDT911 kit is a great option for those that don't want solid...
hands down, i would choose solid (I only track my car), but for those that are just daily driven cars and want zero noise i would choose whitelines kit.
the engineering/design behind the rear diff bushing p/n 67419 from kit KDT911 that goes into the subframe is great.
Whiteline really put thought into it.
I had mentioned it before and poly in the rear diff isnt a good idea unless its large sleeved like the oem bushing. The whiteline large sleeve helps avoid the permanent deformation that can result from "creep" and having a tear drop shape in the poly. the large sleeve paired with hard poly avoids this. The multiple holes drilled into the bushing and the curved shaped aids in torsional bending. its a great design compared to energy suspensions hands down. A side note, the install of it will be much easier then due to the curved shape...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 06-20-2012 at 03:28 AM.
#18
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the whiteline KDT911 kit is a great option for those that dont want solid...
hands down, i would choose solid, but for those that are just daily driven cars and want zero noise i would choose whitelines kit.
the engineering/design behind the rear diff bushing p/n 67419 from kit KDT911 that goes into the subframe is great.
whiteline really put thought into it.
-J
hands down, i would choose solid, but for those that are just daily driven cars and want zero noise i would choose whitelines kit.
the engineering/design behind the rear diff bushing p/n 67419 from kit KDT911 that goes into the subframe is great.
whiteline really put thought into it.
-J
Yeah, i saw someone say they could flex theirs really easily before deciding not to fit it, i could *not* flex mine at all, nor did the rear bushing insert come out.
I removed my rear sway bar and did not re-fit it as i'm fitting a new one that's coming this week, the ride round corners etc. is firmer in a strange way compared to before, so the bushing is good and obviously much firmer than a blown bushing.
#19
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Yeah, i saw someone say they could flex theirs really easily before deciding not to fit it, i could *not* flex mine at all, nor did the rear bushing insert come out.
I removed my rear sway bar and did not re-fit it as i'm fitting a new one that's coming this week, the ride round corners etc. is firmer in a strange way compared to before, so the bushing is good and obviously much firmer than a blown bushing.
I removed my rear sway bar and did not re-fit it as i'm fitting a new one that's coming this week, the ride round corners etc. is firmer in a strange way compared to before, so the bushing is good and obviously much firmer than a blown bushing.