I've gone through the posts about removing the rear diff bushings and i'm at the point that the differential is dropped and i'm trying to put a new Energy bushing in. I'm just trying to install the rear one that points towards the rear of the car. I have a copper pipe that i've tried hammering but no luck. I currently have a hand held malet so nothing huge, do i need a larger one? Im at a loss. After all this work i dont want to have to take it and have the dealer charge me to do the entire subframe. Anyone in SD want to come over and help for food or cash?

 

did you freeze the bushing? denatured alcohol and dry ice in a bucket or the freezer over night

 

A little confusing. Are you trying to remove the two bushings from the differential, or are you trying to remove the single diff. bushing located in the subframe?

 

Yeah im confused. I don't think there would be anything to hammer with a polyurethane bushing?

 

Sorry guys ive been frantic all day. Its the rear bushing that is in the subframe. It is poly and i have only about 1/4" left to push in. Hammering is out of the question-learned that the hard way. Ive been trying to rig up clamping system and it has worked so far but i need something to have the bushing pushed into on the other side. I picked up some 3" pipe from HDepot but i need a larger washer for it. Will start back up tomorrow. Such a pain! Thanks for the help!

 

Yeah I looked at the poly mounts and decided they were more work than the sound reduction is worth. I can honestly say my Spl solids Havnt added much noise at all. Loudest thing is my Spl compression arm bushing.

 

Update?

How'd it go?

 

Just had mine installed on my car... I had OC Infiniti do it since I am still under my extended warranty... I believe they use a special press to do this instal, but man, a night and day difference....

 

What is the purpose/function of the stock bushing and what is the significance of replacing with an aftermarket?

 

The rear stock bushing has a tendency to 'blow', and leak it's silicone fill down the diff, making it's function very lax and inadequate.

I'm literally in the middle of swapping mine out at the moment, diff going back on tomorrow once i've finished smashing the old bushing out.

 

What are you replacing with stock or aftermarket?

 

The stock bushing fails and it's not replaceable. The only way to get it is attached to a complete rear sub-frame.

So everyone goes after-market. I went with Whiteline as they're going to be closest to stock.

 

Does is cause the actual diff to leak or is the streaks on the pumpkin from the cracked diff mount?

 

The streaks on the diff are from the stock bushing, the top and bottom of it are silicone fluid filled.
The result of which, is that the diff is no longer held in the right place during acceleration and cornering. Results are not a great back end feeling when pushed round corners and massive amounts of wheel hop when the wheels break loose under acceleration.

To much of that lot and you'll be wearing all sorts of things out, gears, shafts, sub frame bushings.

 

I caught this video on Youtube a while back and figured that when my diff bushing goes, I'm going to fix it with the Nissan Solutions tool.

 

The whiteline KDT911 kit is a great option for those that don't want solid...

hands down, i would choose solid (I only track my car), but for those that are just daily driven cars and want zero noise i would choose whitelines kit.
the engineering/design behind the rear diff bushing p/n 67419 from kit KDT911 that goes into the subframe is great.
Whiteline really put thought into it.

I had mentioned it before and poly in the rear diff isnt a good idea unless its large sleeved like the oem bushing. The whiteline large sleeve helps avoid the permanent deformation that can result from "creep" and having a tear drop shape in the poly. the large sleeve paired with hard poly avoids this. The multiple holes drilled into the bushing and the curved shaped aids in torsional bending. its a great design compared to energy suspensions hands down. A side note, the install of it will be much easier then due to the curved shape...

-J

 

If you have a saw saw and a drill, you don't need this tool.

I just did this replacement as per the new no clamp guide in the DIY section.

 

Yeah, i saw someone say they could flex theirs really easily before deciding not to fit it, i could *not* flex mine at all, nor did the rear bushing insert come out.
I removed my rear sway bar and did not re-fit it as i'm fitting a new one that's coming this week, the ride round corners etc. is firmer in a strange way compared to before, so the bushing is good and obviously much firmer than a blown bushing.

 

I believe it was me and I was referring to the subframe bushings. Whitelines diff mounts look like they put a lot more effort than the subframe mounts.

 

Ahh, i'm sorry, and yes, i think it was you, so far pretty happy with the diff bushings, felt great quality.