Originally Posted by Cujo159

Yup figured that out just after posting lol. Thanks bud.



Thanks bud. I knew it was a mass/distance unit of measure but I couldn't get a straight answer of the specific units that are used as standard to do my own conversion.

I'm using the car for double duty DD/track & autox but I enjoy precision driving on a daily basis

The wear and tear I'm worried about is with the shock tower mount locations taking the full weight of the car as opposed to splitting the duty between the shock and spring location. Unfortunately I don't have any OEM hardware to switch back to.

Yea I read through that. Being new to suspension theory it was a little over my head but I'm reading through it again to get a better grasp over it. But in short I know it basically states not to buy Fortune auto lol. Hence why I contacted AST for the possible True Coilover purchase.



Thanks terrasmak. Have you seen any metal fatigue at your mount locations in the rear with your true coilover set up? I assume you don't have any extra bracing inside or outside the car at the shock tower locations to mitigate this (yet?).

The tires I'm running are RE11's so they aren't too sticky, but the reviews that they've receive I feel like they should stick a lot better than they have been. The whole set up is definitely not idea for rain either.

Why is the T2 set up 690lbs front and rear? Did they purposely pair very stiff springs in the rear with softer effective front rates (moment reference effectively dividing the front rate by 2) or does the oem rear geometry in the rear cut the effective rate in half as well?

Originally Posted by terrasmak

Try driving the car with the rear bar disconnected. It should help a lot

Originally Posted by GreyZ

This is probably the most technical thread i have seen on here in a long time.

Originally Posted by terrasmak

I run a 700 front and 336 rear , works great with 285/35 RS3 front and rear. The combo you have would probably be great for an NT01 combo with 275/35 front and rear.

Originally Posted by ProPartsUSA

Have you tried to measure static ride height and taken out the springs, disconnect the swaybars and just go through the range of travel to make sure you aren't engaging bumpstops prematurely or already on the bumpstops?

Originally Posted by stuartc323

I dont think he has the coilovers yet, He stated that he had Stance GR+ coilovers right now and he was trying to upgrade to ASTs. But you definitely gave me an idea for setting up my shocks, I would have never thought to take the springs out and adjust them purely off static travel.

For thr process of doing this, do i just remove the springs and swaybars and push on the hood or something to force the shocks down or how should i do this? ive mostly just adjusted my shocks and springs by car feel.

Originally Posted by ProPartsUSA

The purpose of this exercise is to find out the limitations of your suspension, whether it is bumpstops contacing prematurely, riding on bumpstops or control arms hitting the chassis and etc. The forces you would be able to produce with your hands wouldn't be close to what the car is seeing unfortunately.

Originally Posted by stuartc323

Ok so i would basically just take everything off and than drive it to see if i have that much travel to hit the bumpstops and camber arms?

Originally Posted by ProPartsUSA

Sorry, no, you would put it all on jackstands, uninstall just the springs and leave the suspension still bolted in, disconnect the swaybars and jack up the suspension while it is on jackstands.

Originally Posted by stuartc323

Ok cool, might be a little bit remedial, but do i jack the bottom of the shock? or how do i jack up the suspension properly to not damage anything?

Originally Posted by ProPartsUSA

You could use the rotor as a jack point.

Originally Posted by stuartc323

Ok cool, might be a little bit remedial, but do i jack the bottom of the shock? or how do i jack up the suspension properly to not damage anything?

Originally Posted by stuartc323

Terra you on the cooper RS3s? or the hankook RS3s?

Originally Posted by terrasmak

Try driving the car with the rear bar disconnected. It should help a lot

Originally Posted by stuartc323

Honestly bro you should have any problems with the shock mount, i havent seen one case with a failed shock mount as a result of a coilover, if anything the coilover damper is usually what i see fail first, because most people on the forum buy coilovers for looks and that ish is cheaply made. Gsedan35's post i gave to you above was merely to explain how true coilover spring rates work for the rear and how to match them to the front spring rates.

Fortune Auto is one of the few companies i would trust at the price range they are, only reason being they let you cutom build your coilovers and spring rates and they give you a shock dyno with your purchase and after every rebuild.



Do this since you have the Cusco and see what happens like Terra said, if your car handles better without it, your prolly gonna have to get a softer spring rate in the rear or a softer sway bar, or a combo of both.

Originally Posted by ProPartsUSA

Have you tried to measure static ride height and taken out the springs, disconnect the swaybars and just go through the range of travel to make sure you aren't engaging bumpstops prematurely or already on the bumpstops?

Originally Posted by GreyZ

This is probably the most technical thread i have seen on here in a long time.

Originally Posted by mw9

Good read