Took in my Z for an alignment after getting new wheels and tires (based on many threads here) and the alignment tech said "bad news, the subframe needs to be repaired or replaced."
After looking at what happened, it appears that the rear passenger side of the car was in some mild accident (from a previous owner) and the passender mid-link was bent. Due to having a shorter arm to correct toe, whoever worked on the car last slotted the rear toe bolt way over to achieve toe-in with the rear mid link..
As of yesterday, I replaced the mid link and toe seems to be better, but only time will tell once I visit the alignment shop and have them look over everything again.
What I'm debating on is if the alignment will hold (with daily driving only) with the toe bolt slotted like it is, or will I need to weld some aluminum in place to hold the eccentric washer and bolt to get correct alignment? If neither option is available I will likely get true coilovers, and therefore lockout washers and toe links welded in place, or SPL rear mid-links (which are pricey but the consensus seems to say the way to go).
Here's a photo of the mess.

Any and all help is appreciated! Thanks in advance

 

That sucks.... I replace it and put Sikky solid bushings in there I bought a sub frame for like 200 bucks n slidegood.com

 

How hard is it to replace the subframe? I've done clutches in the past and even engine swaps but have never attempted to drop a subframe. All I've ever heard is there's tons of bolts to remove and put back.
Can I at least get a shop to weld in some material to the right of the bolt to temporarily or permanently "fix" the slotting and still be able to have the alignment done?

 

**** bro this is definitely something for a shop to do, i would buy the subframe, get solid busshings like said above and have a shop TIG weld it for strength

 

Few hour job, really not hard. You just need a floor jack.

 

Before swapping the subframe replace all bushings with solids.

 

Yup, whiteline for a street car , Sikky for a track car. Same with the diff bushings.

 

Awesome. Thanks for the help!
The alignment techs said they did the best they could to get the rear straightened out but that slotted bolt hole is likely causing issues as well as the subframe..
I will take it easy on the car until I can purchase a new frame, put new whiteline bushings in, as this is a street car, and have it tig welded.
Found the thread on replacing the subframe bushings. Doesn't really look difficult, just a bit time consuming, but if I can swap in an SR and install a FMIC into a 240 I think I can replace a subframe

 

Not as bad as you might think, definitely doable.

 

Changing out the rear subframe is def a chore but you need to replace it. heat treated aluminum when welded will need to be re-heat treated otherwise you end up with a soft suspension attachment point.

 

Sub frame is easy, I've never done a clutch, but I'm about to put in a BUILT MOTOR