Whiteline subframe question
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 180
Likes: 0
From: Spain
Whiteline subframe question
I'm installing all the rear bushing from whiteline, and I have a doubt with the subframe bushing.
The whiteline subframe bushing has 2 voids or cavities and the rest is solid (escept the center hole that all of them had). As its shown in the install instructions, the part with the voids are installed crosswise, and there is where I have 2 doubts:
1- Is that the correct position for them? that way it looks for me that now the subframe is going to be more rigid in aceleration and braking, but much more less in turns.
2- In the install instructions is only show the postion of the upper bushing, so the bottom part goes exactly in the same position than the top or goes 90º turn to just compensate what I'm explaining in point 1?
Thants very much!!!!!!
The whiteline subframe bushing has 2 voids or cavities and the rest is solid (escept the center hole that all of them had). As its shown in the install instructions, the part with the voids are installed crosswise, and there is where I have 2 doubts:
1- Is that the correct position for them? that way it looks for me that now the subframe is going to be more rigid in aceleration and braking, but much more less in turns.
2- In the install instructions is only show the postion of the upper bushing, so the bottom part goes exactly in the same position than the top or goes 90º turn to just compensate what I'm explaining in point 1?
Thants very much!!!!!!
Valid concerns!
How much harder are they in the direction of the voids than the stock ones? If they are stiffer than OEM in both directions, I would go with the photo.
How much harder are they in the direction of the voids than the stock ones? If they are stiffer than OEM in both directions, I would go with the photo.
New Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 113
Likes: 11
From: east coast
I'm installing all the rear bushing from whiteline, and I have a doubt with the subframe bushing.
The whiteline subframe bushing has 2 voids or cavities and the rest is solid (escept the center hole that all of them had). As its shown in the install instructions, the part with the voids are installed crosswise, and there is where I have 2 doubts:
1- Is that the correct position for them? that way it looks for me that now the subframe is going to be more rigid in aceleration and braking, but much more less in turns.
2- In the install instructions is only show the postion of the upper bushing, so the bottom part goes exactly in the same position than the top or goes 90º turn to just compensate what I'm explaining in point 1?
Thants very much!!!!!!
The whiteline subframe bushing has 2 voids or cavities and the rest is solid (escept the center hole that all of them had). As its shown in the install instructions, the part with the voids are installed crosswise, and there is where I have 2 doubts:
1- Is that the correct position for them? that way it looks for me that now the subframe is going to be more rigid in aceleration and braking, but much more less in turns.
2- In the install instructions is only show the postion of the upper bushing, so the bottom part goes exactly in the same position than the top or goes 90º turn to just compensate what I'm explaining in point 1?
Thants very much!!!!!!
1. the OEM bushings have voids front to back, assuming to absorb the impact shock.
2. just seems like you would want solid material for cornering force.
I would be hesitant to stagger the bushings as that will probably put a bending force on the mounting bolts.
I'm about to press out the OEM bushings and found this tread.
Just a FYI, for anyone else about to do this.
Wondering if the solid PU Energy S. ones are better for a 80-90% autox, track car?
I'm not a suspension engineer, but I am a mechanical engineer and the installation drawing doesn't seem correct for anything other then drag racing?
1. the OEM bushings have voids front to back, assuming to absorb the impact shock.
2. just seems like you would want solid material for cornering force.
I would be hesitant to stagger the bushings as that will probably put a bending force on the mounting bolts.
I'm about to press out the OEM bushings and found this tread.
Just a FYI, for anyone else about to do this.
Wondering if the solid PU Energy S. ones are better for a 80-90% autox, track car?
1. the OEM bushings have voids front to back, assuming to absorb the impact shock.
2. just seems like you would want solid material for cornering force.
I would be hesitant to stagger the bushings as that will probably put a bending force on the mounting bolts.
I'm about to press out the OEM bushings and found this tread.
Just a FYI, for anyone else about to do this.
Wondering if the solid PU Energy S. ones are better for a 80-90% autox, track car?
Don't worry, they hardly flex. They could almost be considered solid
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post