Hello, I lowered my 06 350z on twin (green) springs a few years ago, i thin it was a little less than an inch of drop but it messed up my alignment as expected. at the time my budget was low so i got rear camber arms only. I just installed the Kinetix upper camber A-arms in the front and kind of eyeballed the alignment compared too factory arms. I just came back from firestone with alignment done, i am including the paper sheet with specs they gave me. looks like they barely changed anything on the front camber arms. i still get a shaky steering wheel when i do 70+ mph. Please look at the attached picture n tell me if you think the alignment was done right. I just can't believe that i adjusted the camber arms perfect by just putting em next to the old arms and adjusting.

 

If you compared your Kinetix arms to your OEM arms after you lowered it then you essentially did nothing for getting your camber in spec. It does not appear the shop adjusted your front camber; did you advise them you had after market arms?

 

No, i thought they'd know that i installed after market arms as the factory arms don't have any room for adjustment. by the way, from what you know, do they readings look right compared to factory specs?

 

That's why they have to be told about the aftermarket arms, because the factory arms aren't adjustable so they have no reason to look at them...assuming they did a laser alignment which doesn't require the tires to be off the ground. The factory specs are the 2 smaller numbers above the large numbers. The large number should fall in between the 2 smaller numbers to be in spec.

 

Poor alignment shouldn't cause "a shaky steering wheel when i do 70+ mph". Do you have a problem with wheel balance, or perhaps a bent wheel?

 

I second this. Most likely wheel balancing. Maybe a weight fell off or something.

 

Looks like a half assed alignment. They didn't even touch your front camber. Steering wheel wobble can be caused by many things. I would check for worn wheel bearing or worn tie rod.

 

dude, **** poor azz alignment man......

dude, sorry to say but you need to have it done again - and be prepared to pay extra for front only - unless your good at arguing/negotiating....

read my suspension 101 thread...but your alignment specs are not matching from left to right.......

front:
your front specs are different from one side of the car to the other...with aftermarket uca's there is no reason you shouldn't have matching specs. unless you have another defect somewhere, ie, bad / torn bushing or something..

but at the same token, you front LH side is out of spec..your sheet says -1.7 and the max is -1.3.....sooo, umm u see where your out of spec there????

so here is the kicker - by factory design (ie, oem nissan factory) the 350z is sold with no physical way to adjust camber ---SO, in every lazer alignment machine software at every shop - a prompt comes on the screen that says "front camber is not adjustable" --- so every dim whited alignment tech just hits "next" and doesnt give a sheit about your camber........

but, and here is the big ""but"" - you installed aftermarket adjustable upper control arms - so hence the hullabaloo... now you have to negotiate that they need to adjust your camber...odds are....your gonna have to pay extra......because technically per factory spec, they dont need to....you however are asking for extra service.....

again, it all depends on how you can spin it...negotiate it, etc, etc...good luck..


rear:
your rear readings are out of spec on the LH side, but within spec on the RH side - wtf is that..no alignment shop should let you leave with a spec sheet like that....wow! Your LH toe reading is so far out, your gonna kill tires in months..

Now that is hands down crap, they have every means to adjust the rear to within specs, especially if the RH side is in spec, then the other side (LH) should too...

that alone, the alignment shop should put the car back on the rack and correct it....

-also, that alignment sheet, should be printed in color....im guesing they didnt have a color printer, since you scanned a black and white - u can barely tell the darker shades but the in-spec readings should be green and the out of spec readings should be red...

look close.....watch the monitor as they do it..you will see the color coding.....

also, notice how your thrust angle is not zero!!! hence, your car will be pulling, wandering, etc.....thrust angle will screw up tires, etc..google thrust angle and read about it..your entire alignment is called a thrust angle alignment...it boggles my mind that a shop let you leave with those numbers.........sorry man.


further:
i forget the alignment machine manufacture/software used, but i recognize that print out as being from the machines they use at NTB as well......i know those bars/sections light up in color. every NTB i have been too print in color - because the alignment machine it self comes with a color printer when purchased.

when the NTB in grand prairie texas was built next ot my house - i walked on site when the alignment racks were being installed....spoke with the tech installing - building the rack, he told me everything on it and how it works...the the construction manager asked who i was, and when he realized i walked right on site, he asked me to leave...lol..

-J

 

The factory specs are on the sheet, you are .03 away from in spec on the left rear toe and .5 away from in spec on the front left camber. Definitely off, that tech certainly was not trying. I agree with the earlier post about the vibration being related to wheel balance, o.o.r rim, or worn suspension components. I'd argue for a free realignment, it's not even in spec.