Yes. Thats correct. Im not sure if the springmount has anything to do with it or its my install on the toe bolts. Not worried about the sai as my car tracks perfect and doesnt pull. I am concerned as to why with new toe bolts i can be maxed out when other tuck tire and toe is in spec

 

Guys i think i know what i didnt do on the install. Can someone confirm. Basically i didnt check to see if the bolt travels 360 degrees. How exactly do i do this? Do i loosen the nut first? If it doesnt what do i need to do? If it does, what does this mean?

 

Your toe bolt looks to be maxed out from the picture, which wouldn't be possible if the slot wasnt elongated enough.

 

you still have factory rear camber arms on?

 

I see. So its likely when i get coilovers and go lower i will not be able to get toe within spec?

 

I have spc arms

 

I would hate to speculate until you get an alignment that you can trust. Post a pic of the other toe bolt if you can, just curious.

But assuming your most current alignment is correct and nothing else is wonky, then youll have to go with the SPL adjustable bucket which will give you more adjustment, or you can go coilover rear and get an adjustable toe arm (spring bucket delete). You are only just out of spec, but i can relate to how that can be stressful, lol.

 

have you thought about going to a tuner shop and have them them check it..... instead of someone making $10 an hour?

might be worth considering

 

Pass side toe bolt

 

I wish man i wish there were something like Z1 around here but the only alignment shops are Firestone and les schwab which in part is why i do most things on my own and if I cant i dont do the mod.

 

Would flipping the driver side bolt around do anything like have the nut on the back of the car like the pass side or should they be oriented differently?

 

No, and the other side is not maxed, but close. Get it re-aligned and see what happens, but you are good.

 

Well. What would you do?
Option A run true rear coilover with bucket delete and much more toe adjustment
or
B oem type rear and risk not being able to get toe into spec as I would like to lower and inch

Only issue concerning true type is I want to eliminate fender gap completely and am set on BC coils but cannot find documentation on where they max out at.

 

your in WA correct? If you feel like taking a drive.. Call ahead and go to Kent to the Les Schwab On Central Ave and speak with Chanh Nguyen. He's got a TT G37 and is part of the nissan/infiniti club i was part of there. Tell him Bill with PNW_inc (& the 17" RPF1s) sent you. and he'll fix you up or let you know whats up. I'll ask today to see who else is around closer to you and see who's got the hook ups or a person in the group.

 

I went option A.. lol..



for option B you need to go with SPL midlinks if you cant get enough with Spc toe bolt.




You can also to a traction Arms from SPL or a "toe arm" from Kinetix but that's not the correct way if your performance minded at all. as that will affect the toe steer, but you can gain small toe adjustment's

 

Awesome man really appreciate it. So far this is a daily driven street car. Id like a good ride and worry free alignment. Leaning towards option A as im two finger gap outback with spc toe bolt maxed out.

 

Thank you I am in WA about 30 min from kent area. Will definitely touch base with those guys. I was talking to a friend with bc oem type and he says the alignment shop did the best they could whatever that means. Hes really low probably 2 inches lower than id ever be. But seeing as i have toe issues with lowering springs option A seems like a no brainer

 

But from what i'm reading.. (not an alignment guru) if SAi is out of whack chances are something is bent.. just a matter of what

 

Ok, I used to live in Maple Valley.. just moved back to east coast in October

 

I read that too. But nothing changed between the two alignment sheets i posted no accidents no pot holes nothing