I rebuilt a set of Brembos and powdercoated them on my G35 coupe.. I put all new seals in them.. I got new banjo bolts, new rotors and pads.. I couldnt get the air out so I took it to Nissan to flush the system and put fresh fluid in.. They told me the pedal still goes to the floor and that it might be my master cylinder.. Everything worked fine before the swap.. I have no bite and pedal goes down further than it ever did before.. If I double pump them the pedal stays high and firm like I would think they are supposed to feel, they also bite very hard when I do this.. Shoukd I bleed them again cause this cant be how they are supposed to feel??

 

I've had both the standard and Brembo on my car, and just swapped the Brembo's back on this weekend (i had them powdercoated and rebuilt them). I was extremely, and I mean extremely, careful not to lose much fluid or get air into the system when swapping the calipers and lines.

As soon as I unhooked the brake line at the chassis, I put a cap over it, and lost maybe 3-4 drops of fluid. Swapped on the Brembo and line, and while I was tigthening the caliper bolts I had the bleeders on the caliper open and let gravity start the bleed. Finally a bleed with the Motive pressure bleeder, and really only had to let about 2-3 ounces of fluid out. Then repeated at each remaining corner. My garage space is tight, so I could only work on ones side of the car at a time.

Point is, if you let the Z brake system run dry or get air into it, it's a giant PITA to get it right again. Look at where the ABS pump is - higher than the level of the MC. I'm doubtful your MC is bad because you can get good feel and pressure with a double-pump of the pedal, so I'm guessing there's air in the system. If you don't have a Motive pressure bleeder, get one, or find a mechanic who knows hw to use one (it's simple, but you do need to have some sensibility). Or, maybe a different Nissan dealer with a mechanic who knows how to properly cycle the ABS pump and get all the air out. And, make it clear ahead of time, that you're not paying if the job isn't done properly. You've got all OEM parts, and it really shouldn't be that big a task.

 

Thats why I went to the dealer cause I figured its all oem parts they should know what they are doing, I will ask around and see if I can find someone better.. Thanks!!

 

Good luck, and it really shouldn't be that hard. Did you let the system run dry when you had the calipers off?

 

I let the lines hang and the fluid came out and the lights did come on in the dash.. So I guess it did get kind of low..

 

Lesson learned. I think it's just a bleeding issue, and hopefully you can get it fixed without too many more issues. Not sure a pressure bleeder will do it, without Nissan hooking the car up to its computer to cycle the ABS pump.

 

I'll have to read my paperwork and see if they cycled the abs pump.. I would think they would do everything since the pedal was still going to the floor.. But thank you I now know what to ask for next time I get this done..

 

Dealership techs are often morons. In this case one of those morons probably didn't do a very thorough job bleeding the brakes. I brought my Z back to a dealership exactly once since the day I bought it 7 years ago, and that was for a recall. Find a privately owned shop of workers that know what they're doing. They usually do the job right the first time and if they don't, they don't try to avoid accountability when you bring it back.

 

The only reason I went was because I figured they had the right tools to do the job right since its hard to get the air out.. Gonna have to look for another shop.. Thanks

 

Pressure bleed , multiple times. Such a PITA to get the air out once in the system. I bought caps just for the times I pull my calipers just to be safe

 

Never found the Motive alone enough to do the trick, usually a combination of it and the old fashioned way to get real pressure to build in the system.

Also, if you can do it safely i have also found taking a test drive and activating the abs a few times then re-bleeding helps get stubborn bubbles out.

Dont forget each corner is on a different abs circuit, and there is a primary and secondary line coming from the master cylinder. Also, the FSM calls for a bleed order counter intuitive to the conventional wisdom of furthest to closest.

 

So what way should I be bleeding the system??

 

vacuum bleed the sh*t out of them again.
calipers should have been mounted with the bleeder on the top of the caliper when you installed them in case you didn't
(fat chance you mixed left/right calipers but have to ask)

 

The 2003 FSM says the bleed order is LR, RF, RR, LF

And, the 2004> FSM says RR, LF, LR, RF

When I did mine a few days ago, I did RF, RR, LF, LR - but I didn't let the system run dry and just swapped calipers and lines.

 

Yeah bleeders are on the top, yeah im gonna order the vacuum pump tonight..

 

Brembo's have two bleeder screws in the front caliper, you are bleeding both screws right?

 

Yes

 

I just bought a set of OEM Brembos and I'm about to do this swap this weekend. I hope I don't run into the same problem. That line cap seems like a good idea.

 

You wont as long as you cap the lines.

 

I just installed a complete set of Brembos on my Z and used a Motive bleeder and had zero issues with bleeding.

http://motiveproducts.3dcartstores.com/