front ball joint replacement.
#1
front ball joint replacement.
Just did mine yesterday using Autozone parts and tools. Model year 2004 Here is a list of tools and some pics.
Autozone Parts/Tools:
Part # DBJ 148 ( ball joint )
Part # 27310 ( master ball joint installer/remover set )
Part # 27023 ( ball joint press )
Part # 27011 ( 3 jaw puller )
And its 41mm in diameter, sorry the battery died.
Steps for removal and re-installation:
1. Remove Cone Washer from old BJ using a 3 jaw puller then remove factory retaining clip.
2. Locate Sleeve # 27310B and #27310N
3. Place receiver 27310B over ball joint making sure the BJ stud is centered with the hole on the top of the press. Then place the smaller remover 27310N into the bottom of the ball joint. The remover has a smaller portion that fits inside the bottom of the ball joint perfectly. Use an impact or alot of elbow grease and a pipe to remove ball joint.
center the stud
4. Locate Sleeve # 27310D and # 27310K. Place 27310D on top of new ball joint with 27310K underneath as the receiver cup. I greased my joint before installing. Once pressed install the retaining clip and your done.
Hope this helps anyone out there looking to do this. it wasnt that hard using a vice outside of the car. air tools help alot. good luck.
Autozone Parts/Tools:
Part # DBJ 148 ( ball joint )
Part # 27310 ( master ball joint installer/remover set )
Part # 27023 ( ball joint press )
Part # 27011 ( 3 jaw puller )
And its 41mm in diameter, sorry the battery died.
Steps for removal and re-installation:
1. Remove Cone Washer from old BJ using a 3 jaw puller then remove factory retaining clip.
2. Locate Sleeve # 27310B and #27310N
3. Place receiver 27310B over ball joint making sure the BJ stud is centered with the hole on the top of the press. Then place the smaller remover 27310N into the bottom of the ball joint. The remover has a smaller portion that fits inside the bottom of the ball joint perfectly. Use an impact or alot of elbow grease and a pipe to remove ball joint.
center the stud
4. Locate Sleeve # 27310D and # 27310K. Place 27310D on top of new ball joint with 27310K underneath as the receiver cup. I greased my joint before installing. Once pressed install the retaining clip and your done.
Hope this helps anyone out there looking to do this. it wasnt that hard using a vice outside of the car. air tools help alot. good luck.
The following 3 users liked this post by trusovici:
#2
New Member
iTrader: (6)
IDK why they make it so hard to change these. You shouldn't need 4 tools to change one part that has one bolt on it, but good write up for people who are near a place that can rent these tools for free.
Rather tedious than hard, but you get what I'm saying. Also, I'm aware there is a ratchet or impact wrench, a socket and snap ring pliers which would add to my count of tools :P
Rather tedious than hard, but you get what I'm saying. Also, I'm aware there is a ratchet or impact wrench, a socket and snap ring pliers which would add to my count of tools :P
Last edited by iideadeyeii; 12-14-2017 at 06:50 AM.
#3
New Member
Thanks for the usefull writeup!
Going to do this next week.
Ordered the balljoints from z1 though...
Going to do this next week.
Ordered the balljoints from z1 though...
#4
New Member
Outstanding write-up! The only thing I'd add is that you need to replace the cone on the factory control arm with a replacement:
It's Nissan's cute little way of saying, "If you're not going to buy OEM parts, we're going to make you buy OEM parts." You risk damaging or destroying the aftermarket boot on the new ball joint if you don't use one of those.
It's Nissan's cute little way of saying, "If you're not going to buy OEM parts, we're going to make you buy OEM parts." You risk damaging or destroying the aftermarket boot on the new ball joint if you don't use one of those.
#5
New Member
iTrader: (1)
Thanks for the updated info! My joints need replacing as well and wasn't sure what size cup I needed to push the new joint in. I have a shop press so that should make life a little easier.
Also while I'm down there I'll be checking and probably replacing the joint on the compression rod and the traverse link. A good thing to do especially for you guys who are lowered.
Also while I'm down there I'll be checking and probably replacing the joint on the compression rod and the traverse link. A good thing to do especially for you guys who are lowered.
#6
Thanks for the updated info! My joints need replacing as well and wasn't sure what size cup I needed to push the new joint in. I have a shop press so that should make life a little easier.
Also while I'm down there I'll be checking and probably replacing the joint on the compression rod and the traverse link. A good thing to do especially for you guys who are lowered.
Also while I'm down there I'll be checking and probably replacing the joint on the compression rod and the traverse link. A good thing to do especially for you guys who are lowered.
#7
Outstanding write-up! The only thing I'd add is that you need to replace the cone on the factory control arm with a replacement:
Nissan 40173-33P00 Ball Joint Seat
It's Nissan's cute little way of saying, "If you're not going to buy OEM parts, we're going to make you buy OEM parts." You risk damaging or destroying the aftermarket boot on the new ball joint if you don't use one of those.
Nissan 40173-33P00 Ball Joint Seat
It's Nissan's cute little way of saying, "If you're not going to buy OEM parts, we're going to make you buy OEM parts." You risk damaging or destroying the aftermarket boot on the new ball joint if you don't use one of those.
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#8
IDK why they make it so hard to change these. You shouldn't need 4 tools to change one part that has one bolt on it, but good write up for people who are near a place that can rent these tools for free.
Rather tedious than hard, but you get what I'm saying. Also, I'm aware there is a ratchet or impact wrench, a socket and snap ring pliers which would add to my count of tools :P
Rather tedious than hard, but you get what I'm saying. Also, I'm aware there is a ratchet or impact wrench, a socket and snap ring pliers which would add to my count of tools :P
#10
New Member
Makes sense. I haven't disassembled my old rear control arms to replace everything yet. I just swapped out the whole assemblies for a new set of Moogs. I did get new bushings and ball joints for a re-build on the OEM arms though. It's nice to know you can re-use those stupid cone washers. Thanks again!
#12
Just an update. Ball joint successfully changed. You post made it very easy to walk in to the parts store and walk out with just the right tools.
Getting tools: easy. Actually getting the ball joint in and out: Not as easy....
Getting tools: easy. Actually getting the ball joint in and out: Not as easy....
Last edited by TangoAlphaZulu; 01-21-2018 at 04:53 PM.
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Nismo Ninja (12-26-2017)
#14
New Member
I checked the OEM cone washer part and the diameter of the hole is slightly larger than the factory OEM ball joint bolt. It's snug, but doesn't require a puller to remove. I went ahead and pulled the cones off the old ball joints just for giggles. Easy peasy with a puller.
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