I just ordered my Hotchkis adjustable sways. I will be installing them and my Eibach Pro kit in a few days. Can anyone who uses these sways tell me how they have them set up?

I drive 90 percent highway driving. I WILL be road racing the Z this summer, but not anytime soon. I do however like to drive agressively (who doesn't right?)


Anyway, the pdf I read online with the installation instructions reccommends using the FIRMEST setting up front and the SOFTEST setting in the rear to start. Anyone use this setting? I know I'll probably have to drive around and play with the settings but I think Firmest / softest might be a bit extreme to start, no?

 

There are plenty of threads on this topic, but I think most people are running the front softer than the rear to reduce understeer.

 

Front Middle 58% firmer
Rear Soft 65% firmer

For road...

Now if this is a drift car.... nah you don't want that....

Cheers Amy -

 

I've read a LOT of topics where everyone is comparing one brand to another. Not many people have given up their settings and let us know how they really handle.

Amy... Thank you for your info, I think that's where I'll start. I see you have Eibach springs for sale and are using the Hotchkis springs now, might I ask why? Were you unhappy at all with the Eibachs?

 

4me:

I had the chance to take a tour of the facilities... Early last summer. It was after the Button Willow Track day...

The engineer was very interested in my choice of Eibach's.
He questioned what I liked and didn't like. An proceeded to set the design of the new springs in theory.
He indicated that he could make a "Better" set of springs. And said check back in a few months.
Several different sets were tested at the track last fall. The one set he had predicted to work best was the one to go into production. The springs have eight coils, and are powder coated silver. The front height is same as Eibach .8 inch and the rear is longer/taller than the Eibach. With the Hotchkis springs the adjustable camber rods are not needed. That is you can set the rear camber to spec with the stock Cam bolts in the rear hanger. The angle of the Camber rods change with the extra 3/8" lower springs.

The height of the stock rear springs is measured 700mm from the tallest point of the inside rear wheel well.

Well, the Hotchkis have less low speed jitter on rough stops. And have a higher spring rate. No spring "chatter". Special materials.

The Sway Bars were installed at the same time. The settings were Soft and Soft. The rear 65% did most of the work. The fronts on soft were calculated to be 9% more than stock, but in reality it more like 20% due to the increased wall thickness and larger diameter. The move to 56% ( Medium front ) on the test mule was an eye opener. Four lane high way to four lane blvd. I was instructed to not use the brakes just turn the wheel.
Every nerve said too fast, but I followed the instruction. I thought I'd be out on the center line of the new road. Nope it was like a Disneyland ride. The car was in the lane nearest the curb. The car is like one of those R/C cars. Very addictive..
The issue about tightening up the rears to Max and going way soft on the front.. Well the front stock bar and any rear stiff bar would do that. But how would you be able to kick out the rear end under power when you needed to? I'd say we have been driving front wheel cars too much in the last decade. Example I was driving my Max and exited the freeway and wanted to turn right on the frontage road. I cut the wheel like the Z, and sort of slide the front wheels in a rather stupid manner. Duh !


I have a set of Show Quality custom adjustable rear camber rods.
Very nice looking and the alignment guy was thrilled to be able to adjust the camber on the "Test Mule" car. These are Prototypes and will not go production. Sort of one-offs.
I have a new set of LSDunique adjustable camber rods for sale. Now that I spoke, the value of the Eibach Set and the LSDunique camber rods...
Well I cut my own throat. Hummm .. must work on my negotiating skills.

Cheers Amy -

The real issue for the 350Z is the front "tire eating".. It looks like new A-Arms, the Koni's are on the boat to the US, and matching the Koni's with special front spring rates..
There is a prize to the company to solve the 350Z tire problem.
Profit ! $$$$$
And the satisfaction of showing "The Company" the error of their way's.
No short wheelbase sports car will ever again be built without Euro-specs.

 

Their published spec's factor in the the greater diameter and wall thickness already, no need for addtional math. In any event they are best setup from trial and error as to suit one's driving style.

Front 1 3/8" (35MM) Hollow (Bar Weight 13.5lbs)
3 Position Adjustable
Rate Increase over stock
+9%,+32%,+63%

Rear 15/16"(24mm) Hollow (bar weight 5.5lbs)
3 Position Adjustable
Rate Increase over stock
+54%,+92%,+146%

 

Cusco's, set to

+37% front
+73% rear (non adjustable)

Neutral behavior, understeer's only on very low speed corners, can be steered with the throttle. If overcooked, dropping the throttle does not cause dropped throttle oversteer, car goes wide as you scrub speed. If you want to be wicked and kick the tail out you can and in a nicely controlled manner (how much depends on how much you work the throttle).