How to replace rear ROTORS??
04-15-2004, 06:47 PM
#1
How to replace rear ROTORS??
search is dead.
Is there a link to a tutorial or "how to" replace the rotors, I think I just warped my rears and need to think about replacing them (unless they are magically better in the morning after they cool down).
I have done a brake job on my wifes jetta, so this couldn't be too much harder, it is very hard??
any help I appreciate!!!!
Is there a link to a tutorial or "how to" replace the rotors, I think I just warped my rears and need to think about replacing them (unless they are magically better in the morning after they cool down).
I have done a brake job on my wifes jetta, so this couldn't be too much harder, it is very hard??
any help I appreciate!!!!
04-15-2004, 07:22 PM
#5
SFZCC
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Piece of cake.
1. Make sure parking brake is off
2. Remove 2 bolts holding caliper to hub
3. Remove Caliper
4. Tap on edges of rotor or wiggle back and forth as it has a tight fit at the center
5. Install new rotor
6. Install caliper
1. Make sure parking brake is off
2. Remove 2 bolts holding caliper to hub
3. Remove Caliper
4. Tap on edges of rotor or wiggle back and forth as it has a tight fit at the center
5. Install new rotor
6. Install caliper
04-15-2004, 07:24 PM
#7
Originally posted by westpak
Piece of cake.
1. Make sure parking brake is off
2. Remove 2 bolts holding caliper to hub
3. Remove Caliper
4. Tap on edges of rotor or wiggle back and forth as it has a tight fit at the center
5. Install new rotor
6. Install caliper
Piece of cake.
1. Make sure parking brake is off
2. Remove 2 bolts holding caliper to hub
3. Remove Caliper
4. Tap on edges of rotor or wiggle back and forth as it has a tight fit at the center
5. Install new rotor
6. Install caliper
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04-15-2004, 07:31 PM
#8
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Some guys have had to tap hard on it, I grabbed it with two hands and wiggled it back and forth a few times and it cam lose.
The only thing holding it was a tight fit at the center with the axle area, otherwise the rotors are held in place by the lugnuts and wheel.
The fronts don't even have that tight fit, when you take the front wheels off the rotor is lose.
The only thing holding it was a tight fit at the center with the axle area, otherwise the rotors are held in place by the lugnuts and wheel.
The fronts don't even have that tight fit, when you take the front wheels off the rotor is lose.
04-15-2004, 07:36 PM
#9
Originally posted by westpak
Some guys have had to tap hard on it, I grabbed it with two hands and wiggled it back and forth a few times and it cam lose.
The only thing holding it was a tight fit at the center with the axle area, otherwise the rotors are held in place by the lugnuts and wheel.
The fronts don't even have that tight fit, when you take the front wheels off the rotor is lose.
Some guys have had to tap hard on it, I grabbed it with two hands and wiggled it back and forth a few times and it cam lose.
The only thing holding it was a tight fit at the center with the axle area, otherwise the rotors are held in place by the lugnuts and wheel.
The fronts don't even have that tight fit, when you take the front wheels off the rotor is lose.
so I don't need a caliper tool to compress the pads? or any other special tools right??
04-15-2004, 08:46 PM
#10
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You might need a C-clamp to compress the pads it they won't go on over the new rotors. Also, If you do have to compress the pads, your supposed to open the bleeder screws and clamp the brake lines so that you don't force "dirty" fluid from the caliper back into the ABS system and master cylinder.
So what kind of rotors did you get?
So what kind of rotors did you get?
04-15-2004, 09:05 PM
#11
Originally posted by CaneZMD
You might need a C-clamp to compress the pads it they won't go on over the new rotors. Also, If you do have to compress the pads, your supposed to open the bleeder screws and clamp the brake lines so that you don't force "dirty" fluid from the caliper back into the ABS system and master cylinder.
So what kind of rotors did you get?
You might need a C-clamp to compress the pads it they won't go on over the new rotors. Also, If you do have to compress the pads, your supposed to open the bleeder screws and clamp the brake lines so that you don't force "dirty" fluid from the caliper back into the ABS system and master cylinder.
So what kind of rotors did you get?
Are you sure I will need to compress them??? They should be OK (since I am using the stock pads) and I will NOT be applying the E-brake while the calipers are off. (I am just going by memory of when I have done some moto and mountain bike disc brake rebuilds.)
04-16-2004, 03:49 AM
#12
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If you are going to go back with the stock pads you should be OK, the rotors shouldn't be too much thicker, but you might have to compress the piston slightly, just use a C-clamp to push the piston in slightly, since you wont be compressing that much I wouldn't worry about bleeding them just keep an eye on the reservoir to make sure it doesn't overflow as you compress the pistons.
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