I am running 255/35 19 front 275/ 35 19 rears.

No prob with rubbing, and no settling for me, as far as I can tell.

However it seems to me that B+G dropped the car more than 1 inch. From the second they rolled it out of the garage I was thinking "Damn maybe thats too low!"

Now I am happy though. I get scrapes only if i go over bumps to fast and I can still go up a tire size and not worry about Mr. Rub!

As Miaplaya says, I highly reccomend the Hotchkiss bars w/ this setup. It really tied everything together and refined what the springs already gave to the car!.

Oh, i havent alligned my ride yet either. Its been two weeks. I probably will do it soon, but for now my wear is fine and I have no pulling to the right or left!.

 

Here is a pic after the drop!

 

Hi Joust75

Do you have a Meter Stick..? ( metric yard Stick ) $2 bucks at Walmart - they are Yellow - yard sticks with Inch/Metric..

Could you/Would you measure the rear inner fender well to the ground. Stock is 700mm ( 70 Cm ) or just mesure in inches.

Thanks Amy -

MiaPlayer:

My bud told me Hotchkis doubled production and had it put 350Z production before other Bars.. That's a good sign.

 

Yeah, thats great news!! Looks like the demand for these is now through the roof. I think the excellent reviews you and Joust gave these sways combined with that SCC article is going to have Hotchkis making these a fast as possible. I noticed in your other thread that you changed the setting on yours. What are you running on the sways? Joust same question to you. I was thinking of going Middle front and Full stiff rear.

 

Yea I was wondering myself..What settings to set them at?

 

Legg350, Joust and MiaPlayer:

I'm running Front in Middle, rears on Softest ( nearest the end of the bar )
Added Koni's that are adjustable. Fronts under hood. Rears by jacking up car with stock jack and using an 1/10" (2.5mm) rod. Tires stay on car.
My problem is with Koni's I can no longer kick out the rear end at will. ( not even in the rain )
I still have the stock rear bar stored in the garage rafters..

Cheers Amy -
USAF Systems Command ( 1965 - 1969 Vietnam - Kampucia )

 

Stiffest, both front and rear.

Hotchkiss reccomends stiffest in front, lightest in rear.

You wont be sorry if you put it as stiff as possible all the way around. If you had springs on before you will see that the ride stiffens even more with the roll bars but not by much.

Amy... no yard stick at home. Will try to borrow one from neighbor.

Amers, could you post a link to your sway bar review? Id like to read your impressions.

 

I thought full stiff was all the way to the back on the rears. Guess I was wrong. I know SCC ran theirs at middle/middle. How hard is to adjust them once they're on. I think I'm going to initially set them like joust and see what I think.

 

Yea I just read that lastnight SCC is at middle middle .... I wonder how front middle - rear stiff would be

 

Well I just left NTB..Went and got a 115.00 all wheel alignment BUT car has 3900 miles on it so the tow was fine i just needed the camber fixed after installing my springs.. "I feel like they didnt do shii to my alignment" This is what they said Front is not ajustable at all on camber"the leaning in after droppping" Rear is and supposly they maxed them out as far as they can go. They said that rear was not in spec but close after maxing them out like maybe .2 off. But front basicly they did nothing to it.

Now if I look at my front and rear "It still looks the fkn same" 115.00 it comes with a 6 month 6000 warrenty so i tell the girl if i get new cambers it should be under warrenty to get it aligned right. she says NO not if you change the suspension blah blah im just kinda pissed..i mean i was expecting it not to actually align perfect and me having to get cambers. thinking that atleast i can try to not eat my tires up as bad if they max it out but nothing to front and rear looks same

So what are my options? Front and Rear?

 

Dude I just got back from Mossy and SAME exact story here. They said the front was not adjustable and they maxed out the back. On my left side its within specs but my right side is about .2 off. Thats in the rear. In the front both are about .1-.2 off. Should be close enough to not have tire issues. Only solution to truely fix it now is to get adjustable A-arms in the front. And adjustable traction rods in the back. Each are $400+. So it would cost me ANOTHER $800+ to get it in Specs. I spent $70 for them to get is as close as they could. I'm not tripping to hard in the back though. From what my buddy said most RWD cars run a little negative camber in the back. Guess I'll live with it until I get some adjustable A-Arms. Sucks cause my next $800 was going to be for my exhaust and Y-pipe.


Edit: Nope the front camber control arms are $800 alone. Heres the link. http://www.performancenissanparts.co...roducts_id=341

Rears are another $400 heres the other link http://www.performancenissanparts.co...roducts_id=356

 

kenetix has the whole kit front and rear 749.99
I think my fronts where off more tham .2 i need to go look at the comp sheet.


http://www.kinetixracing.com/index.a...&ProdID=8&HS=1

 

I like that. I wanted to get though resonated cat pipes anyways so I guess Ima have to think about these as well.

 

I think stillen has a package deal on front and rear camber kits. I was looking at this before I ordered my springs today. How far did you car drop front and rear?

 

B&G says its a 1" drop but I think its a little more. As for the Stillen its pretty nice but the Kinetix is still cheaper for all of them.

 

I'll post some pics tomorrow.