HAWK HPS issues w/ brembo calipers
Originally posted by 350trackz
I too had to use a "large adjustment tool" aka mallet to get mine in. Squeaked like heck too ... even with grease and no squeak stuff.
I ended up pulling the plastic like shim off the factory ones and putting that between the piston and pad as was before ... minimal sqeak now.
Did you guys use the little shim thing in front ? Brembos ... yes
I too had to use a "large adjustment tool" aka mallet to get mine in. Squeaked like heck too ... even with grease and no squeak stuff.
I ended up pulling the plastic like shim off the factory ones and putting that between the piston and pad as was before ... minimal sqeak now.
Did you guys use the little shim thing in front ? Brembos ... yes
Originally posted by 350trackz
No. Tire Rack is NOT the best deal ...
I got mine here (yes from ebay). I called and talked to them and everything first. They are GREAT guys. price includes shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB..._VIClosedLoser
No. Tire Rack is NOT the best deal ...
I got mine here (yes from ebay). I called and talked to them and everything first. They are GREAT guys. price includes shipping.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB..._VIClosedLoser
Originally posted by mark350
I used a thin putty knife to get the shims off the stock pads and then used the brake anti-squeal compound to attach the shims to the hawk backing plates.
I used a thin putty knife to get the shims off the stock pads and then used the brake anti-squeal compound to attach the shims to the hawk backing plates.
maybe i can order a set of shims, and using adhesive, apply them to the hawkies....
i love these new pads (clean clean, clean, and EXCELLENT initial bite), but this 'clack' is out of the level of BS that i can handle....
i was thinking the 'clack' was a result of the minor shaving of the pad backplate, originally.... never thought of the shims....
here's hoping!
thanks to all for the input... this forum is BY FAR the best source in town........
much thanks
eS
ok.. i think i know what the 'clack' is... possibly the pistons are hitting the pad. it would have been better if the pad was generously sprayed with a brake compound.. the stuff gets gummy/tacky so it absorbs vibrations and sounds and adheres to certain parts.
i installed mine on my own... was a 2 hour job, but was fun. no shims.. i threw mine out along with the old pads. possibly, i'll order some new shims.
the rear pads slid in with easy... but the front pads were a pain in the ***. i had to hammer them down with my fist and adjust a bit with a mallet. really tight fit, but works great.. i'd rather have a very tight fit pad instead of a vibrating smaller pad.
pads have been on for almost 4 months now... and great. just a bit of squeal in the rear... i have to check that out.
i installed mine on my own... was a 2 hour job, but was fun. no shims.. i threw mine out along with the old pads. possibly, i'll order some new shims.
the rear pads slid in with easy... but the front pads were a pain in the ***. i had to hammer them down with my fist and adjust a bit with a mallet. really tight fit, but works great.. i'd rather have a very tight fit pad instead of a vibrating smaller pad.
pads have been on for almost 4 months now... and great. just a bit of squeal in the rear... i have to check that out.
I would think the "clack" comes from the pad being pushed ever so slightly forward in the direction of rotation in the caliper during driving. Then, when you reverse, it shifts and hits the back of the caliper.
Just a guess though.
Just a guess though.
I just upgraded my roadster with Brembo brakes, I also bought some HAWK HPS Brake Pads for the front.
The Nissan Mechanic who did the switch indicated the HAWK Pads will not fit. SO I tried this morning, the metal backing is too long and will not fit.
A person should not have to pound in the new pads! At some point you will need to replace these pads how will you get them out? No issues with the oem pads slide in and out real easy!
I am trying to get this rectified with Tire Rack. I am guessing this length issue does not apply to all HAWK HPS pads?
Major
The Nissan Mechanic who did the switch indicated the HAWK Pads will not fit. SO I tried this morning, the metal backing is too long and will not fit.
A person should not have to pound in the new pads! At some point you will need to replace these pads how will you get them out? No issues with the oem pads slide in and out real easy!
I am trying to get this rectified with Tire Rack. I am guessing this length issue does not apply to all HAWK HPS pads?
Major
^ agree - they should not be so tight that a hammer is needed.
I had to file the backplate ends of my front pads to get them to fit. They where just too tight.
The rears actually seemed too small. They slopped around abit but I haven't heard any clanking noises (which I expected).
I had to file the backplate ends of my front pads to get them to fit. They where just too tight.
The rears actually seemed too small. They slopped around abit but I haven't heard any clanking noises (which I expected).
I've had a set of HPS and have a set of HP+ for track days. I had to trim one of the HPS pads and all of the HP+ to fit in the brembo front calipers. As far as the clacking noise, that I haven't heard of.
Good luck on ordering new shims, my dealer couldn't find a part number for them. I think they might come with new oem pads.
Good luck on ordering new shims, my dealer couldn't find a part number for them. I think they might come with new oem pads.
Hey! I finally filed down the edge of the metal backing and the hawk pads fit just fine, they are snug but slide in and out with no problems.
I also saved the plastic fiber shim from the oem pads and used that sticky ant-squeal stuff from NAPA to hold them in place.
During the bedding process no squeaks or clacks. After the breaks cooled down I did some short stops in forward and reverse no problems so far.
I just hope the dust will not be as bad as the oem pads!
I am not happy about filing down these pads after paying the bucks at Tire Rack. Hopefully they will get this fitment issue resolved!
Major
I also saved the plastic fiber shim from the oem pads and used that sticky ant-squeal stuff from NAPA to hold them in place.
During the bedding process no squeaks or clacks. After the breaks cooled down I did some short stops in forward and reverse no problems so far.
I just hope the dust will not be as bad as the oem pads!
I am not happy about filing down these pads after paying the bucks at Tire Rack. Hopefully they will get this fitment issue resolved!
Major
Originally posted by esemes
SO, PERHAPS, the 'clack' is a result of the missing shim (plastic/rubber??) that the oem units have adhered to them???
maybe i can order a set of shims, and using adhesive, apply them to the hawkies....
i love these new pads (clean clean, clean, and EXCELLENT initial bite), but this 'clack' is out of the level of BS that i can handle....
i was thinking the 'clack' was a result of the minor shaving of the pad backplate, originally.... never thought of the shims....
here's hoping!
thanks to all for the input... this forum is BY FAR the best source in town........
much thanks
eS
SO, PERHAPS, the 'clack' is a result of the missing shim (plastic/rubber??) that the oem units have adhered to them???
maybe i can order a set of shims, and using adhesive, apply them to the hawkies....
i love these new pads (clean clean, clean, and EXCELLENT initial bite), but this 'clack' is out of the level of BS that i can handle....
i was thinking the 'clack' was a result of the minor shaving of the pad backplate, originally.... never thought of the shims....
here's hoping!
thanks to all for the input... this forum is BY FAR the best source in town........
much thanks
eS
Last edited by mok5; Nov 28, 2004 at 08:53 PM.
The hardest part of this whole process is compressing the piston
is there a process/tool that will make this simpler? I have a c-clamp but there is no way it will fit!
Thanks
Major
is there a process/tool that will make this simpler? I have a c-clamp but there is no way it will fit!
Thanks
Major
Originally posted by Major
The hardest part of this whole process is compressing the piston
is there a process/tool that will make this simpler? I have a c-clamp but there is no way it will fit!
The hardest part of this whole process is compressing the piston
is there a process/tool that will make this simpler? I have a c-clamp but there is no way it will fit!
Originally posted by Major
DZeckhausen,
It apears this tool will slide down inside the caliper and compress the pistons, correct?
How do I get one & how much?
DZeckhausen,
It apears this tool will slide down inside the caliper and compress the pistons, correct?
How do I get one & how much?
I bought this tool back in 1994 to change the pads on my 3rd Gen RX-7 Twin Turbo. It was a Mazda Special Service Tool (SST) and I think it cost about $35. I thought a quick Google search would find multiple sources for it, but I came up empty. Sorry!
You could print out a photo of the tool and bring it to your local Mazda parts counter.
Dave
Originally posted by Major
DZeckhausen
Thanks, I will do some research and see if I can it.
Major
DZeckhausen
Thanks, I will do some research and see if I can it.
Major
If your piston is reluctant to go in easily, do not force it. At that point, it's time to get a special tool. But if it does go in with very little effort, then there's nothing wrong with the "2 screwdriver" approach.
Yet another technique would be to cut a piece of thick sheet metal approximately the shape of your brake pad, but smaller. Insert it into the caliper, then pry against it with a small prybar or a large screwdriver. The flat piece of metal will apply even force against both pistons and will protect the rubber dust boot from damage in case your pry bar slips.
DZeckhausen,
Very informative! I used a large screwdriver & a wood stir stick for stirring paint. It was awkward bit worked. I wanted to make sure I did not have metal to metal contact.
I like your method much better.
Thanks Again!
Major
Very informative! I used a large screwdriver & a wood stir stick for stirring paint. It was awkward bit worked. I wanted to make sure I did not have metal to metal contact.
I like your method much better.
Thanks Again!
Major



