MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

B&Gs are progressive springs so its hard to say what the spring rate is. Don't get me wrong I LOVE my springs...but I would HIGHLY recommend front camber arms.

jchen1020

You think that is good to use with Bilstein shocks?
I have those shocks, I read somewhere someone told me not to use stiffer springs than stock with the bilstein. I think bilsteins are pretty stiff themselves. What is the ride quality like? Is it still pretty smooth? Do you have Camber Arms on yours?

Jason@Performance

iTrader: (11)

the stock Z already has negitive camber in the rear... Acceleration from a dead stop is already effected from this hence why the Z is hard to get good times in the 1/4 Miles but will kill cars from rolling starts...

You never want to go to negitive on camber even for a heavy drivin track car. What you gain in negitive camber in the corners will also take away in braking and acceleration...

The amount of negitive camber that just lowering springs will give you is not enought to drastically reduce acceleartion traction... but it will once you start going more then -2" drops...

Like my car

jchen1020

PLEASE HELP OUT, WHAT IS SPRING RATE ON B&G
HOW BAD ARE CAMBERS AFTER DROP.

jchen1020

How many inches did you drop your car?
where is the best deal on front camber arms

del105

iTrader: (4)

I just wanted to mention to people that Camber doesn't really effect tire wear. Toe effects tire wear.

jchen1020

With yours, Did you need to buy rear camber or rear toe kit at all?
Front A arm is good enough, right?

mcduck

what del105 said... I have the B+G springs and I'm very happy with them. After car settled, we got alignment done by Nissan. My final numbers were just slightly better than what Miaplaya posted.

Still, I'll take the tradeoff every day. The car rides much smoother, corners better... the overall handling just feels much more poised than the stock springs.

slaponte

iTrader: (2)

Well, lets see. I have the Eibach springs, rear Kinetix camber arms and front Kinetix adjustable A arms.

At this point, all specs are "green" per latest Nissan specs, but rear camber is at -2.0 (range -1.1 to -2.1) because if you try to reduce it the rear Toe goes way out and can't be adjusted (available adjustment is maxed out).

So I am considering eccentric Toe cams.

As somebody stated, excesive toe is worst for the tires than a little extra camber. With a little extra camber you are "leaning" on the inside edge, but with extre toe you are "scrubbing" the tires sideways against the road, which will eat them much much faster.

So now I have

Front camber at -0.4 (both sides)
Front toe at 0.07 (I would like to be closer to 0)

Rear Camber at -2.0
Rear toe at 0.07

I have the full report so if you guys want to I can post all the numbers and specified ranges...

macka

damn jchen, try to keep the post down...your floodin it up a bit no?

You have 17 post and 11 of them are on this thread. I do hope you get an answer, but be easy and be patient. Someone will help you, it just may take some time.

jchen1020

Thank you. I just joint. Now I know. Take care bud

jchen1020

So, Can I get the report from you?
Thank you. Front A Arm is absoultely needed? Correct?
I am ok with the numbers you posted on rear. 2.0 degrees in ok. I current have 1.9 camber on mine. Tires are just fine

slaponte

iTrader: (2)

If, after install and they settle, the camber is out too far (out of spec) in the front, the ONLY way today to fix it back to spec is with a front adjustable A arm. You have to decide what is too far out, and what you are willing to live with.

Now, the numbers :

Front
Spec Left Right
Camber -1.3 to 0.2 -0.3 -0.4
Toe 0.00 to 0.10 0.07 0.06
Caster 7.4 to 8.9 9.4 9.3

Spec
Cross Camber -0.8 to 0.8 0.1
Total Toe 0.00 to 0.20 0.12
Cross Caster -0.8 to 0.8 0.1

Rear
Spec Left Right
Camber -2.1 to -1.1 -2.1 -2.0
Toe 0.06 to 0.14 0.07 0.06

Cross Camber -0.2
Total Toe 0.14

Notice rear camber is to the max, but it was the only way to get Toe in spec, unless I add toe adjustment.

slaponte

iTrader: (2)

I hate how this thing eats the spacing...

jchen1020

Thank you so much

Do you know if I do not buy camber A arm in front, how much off we are talking about. because I am currently at 1.4 camber on the front both. I am fine with that. I dunno if that is still the case after another 0.7 inch drop. I current have 0.3 drop in front with H tech. A hair out of specs I am fine. but If it will bring my front camber to 2 degrees or something, I will defintely buy A arm?
Did you install A arm when you install the spring? Or did you do it afterwards. How long did you wait for settle before doing alignment?

jmorriso

What in the world???

Of course camber will directly affect tire wear. Extreme camber either negative or positive will directly affect not only the way the car handles but tire wear as well. As it will also directly impact your toe settings. Hence, when you drop your car, the camber becomes more negative and the toe is out. The camber kit alone is not enough, you will need a new toe bolt to adjust properly for perfect alignment. The stock toe bolt will not work. It is more in the middle than the aftermarket toe bolt (it's more towards the outside of the large washer which gives you more adjustment ability). I know, I just finished aligning my car at home. I set my camber at - 3/4 camber for the rear with the new adjustable camber arms and the toe has been corrected with the new toe bolt installed. Another important factor is obviously tire pressure. Look, in order to properly align your camber/toe, many factors need to be considered, one of which is tire temperature during the alignment process, it takes several times to perfect it, but after you're done, drive the car around for a few mins, then stop and immediately take your tire temperature from inside to outside on all four corners, write the numbers down, and if you are way too hot on the inside of tire versus the outside, you may need to adjust more...just depends. For example, my left rear temp from inner to outer was 106, 100, 96, 93...not bad. You DO want a little negative camber, but too much negative camber is not ideal that goes for toe as well. They are both in bed together, so you really need to fine tune both. As far as the front's are concerned, it's not really that bad compared to the rears. Although, if you must, you can pay out the money for the adj arms and even perhaps drill out your shock holes outward and pull your shock out a little which will also move your camber more positive (at least that's true for mazda). Lastly, in order to ensure your right and left rears are even, you need alignment plates. You could use wood and make some really, but basically, you measure using 2 tape measurers, from the front of the wheels to the rear and make sure your getting the same numbers across...on stock wheels, mine came out to about 71 inches even. Also, to check for front and rear alignment, you take string to see where the point of contact is on the tires then make adjustments from there, and then lastly, you will need a camber level....they have a large magnet and it sticks right on the rotor for easy measurements...

If you don't want to buy tires 3 times a year, you may consider getting a non-directional tire and go with an asymmetrical tire tread, so you can easily rotate the tires from side to side, and not have to dismount the tire from the wheel in order to rotate them. I went with the Continental Contacts, a little heavier, but kills the life of others like Falken, Hanbrook, and Khumo's...those suck, so stay away from them....My Khumo's last 4 months, Falken's last 4.5 months, and my 350GT is not a daily driver. These Continentals I've only had on for a month now, and what a huge difference in comparison to them....but really, any tire will last longer if your camber and toe are adjusted properly.

If you want a great camber and toe kit for the rear, this is where you need to go...excellent service and product!!! Peter is the contact....seriously....A+ service!

Peter Awad
Visit us at: www.iapdirect.com
Toll Free: 1-888-359-0448
Local: 407-359-0448

slaponte

iTrader: (2)

I have no idea. If you go from 0.3 drop to 0.7 you might still be able to get it very close to specs. Some people do a 1" drop and still get "close enough". How close is close enough is a judgement call. I ran with the drop and no arms in front the last 12K or so and the tires where fine, except for the feathering. And I do not believe that the bit of extra camber caused it.

I think in the front before the A arms I had something like -1.5 and the max is supposed to be -1.3, so I considered a minimal problem.

If I was doing the alignment myself, I would have tried to leave camber closer to -1 and Toe closer to 0 as possible. (Front).

The rear is at -2.1 and -2.0. I would like to bring it in to -1.3 or so, but need Toe adjustment for that. So I am shopping for toe cams.

I installed the rear arms about 2 months after the drop. At the time of the drop I did not align. I waited a few weeks (6 or 8), then had the arms put on and aligned.

Now, 11K miles later I installed the front A arms and aligned again.

jchen1020

thank you.

myz8a4re

iTrader: (2)

slaponte, if you purchased the front/rear camber arms from kinetix you should have recieved the trailing or traction arms that allow you to adjust toe as you lessen the camber. i have this setup & it allows me to run my rear camber at -1.5 with my toe set to spec. i run my front at -.75 with toe in spec & im very happy with these settings........(not that feathering is eliminated but thats another story)

-justin

slaponte

iTrader: (2)

No, I bought the rear camber arms alone, and then later the front A arms used from another Z owner. I never bought the traction arms.

I have also read that the traction arms allow you to adjust Toe. That is not what they are meant to do, but they do that by changing your CASTER angle.

For what I need, the cam bolts should do the trick. They are supposed to go +/- 3.00.