RazNips

I just said 1.5 inches because i want to be able to go about that low. I will be getting volk gt-c's soon and am selling my stock wheels/tires to a friend for ~$1000 and want to buy tein basics. i drive a g35 coupe 6mt btw... I was hoping to get about the drop that eibach springs get 1 - 1.3 inches i guess. I have gotten mixed experiences on g35driver.com and have read a lot of contradicting stuff on camber adjustment. I'm by no means a suspension expert or anything... so please help me out a little.... First off i would like to be going economical here... i didnt say cheap because i want a quality product that is going to last but dont want to pay for stillen really. What would you suggest getting if i am going to be putting on 19's on my coupe and lowering to where i have a 0-1 finger gap? Also i am a little confused about toe arms, upper control arms, and camber adjustments.... could someone please explain to me what they all do? I am under the impression that the camber adjusters make it so that i can get rid of the negative camber that i will get from lowering my ride... do i need all 3 of these or what? I'm so confused here and dont want to get screwed when i take it to a shop and they say " O yeah a 17 year old with a g35... that'll be $9999999999 for suspension please". help me out por favor

dwnshift

iTrader: (1)

If you are droping your front ride height that low you will def be in need of front control arms that allow for camebr adjustment. I would recomend the 350EVO front control arms for this. I believe our arms offer a lot for the money.....ease of adjustment, range of adjustment, strength, reliability, and good looks
Our arms have been developed and tested through our endurance race program with Schuitemaker Motorsports in the Grand Am Cup series. Our quality is top notch.
From what we have seen developing the car for almost two years now.....the best way to have the rear tow adjusted is by a very good and trusted shop. There are some offer "toe" bars on the market. These should not be adjusted in length to accommodate for toe adjustment. By doing so will effect the rear suspension geometry which one effect can induce bump steer in the rear ......not a good solution.
Our rear suspension parts are being coated now and the bushings for the camber arm.
Our complete kit is avaialble on our web site.
www.350EVO.com
Here is a shot our our front control arms..................

Developed, tested, and proven through motorsports

RazNips

I'm really not looking to spend THAT much.... thats why i want an economical way to save my tires..... i'm probably only going to have this car for 50k miles or so... if im going through tires every 13k miles instead of 18k miles or something... thats only one extra set of tires in the several years that im going to have my car... it'll end up costing about the same amount as the camber adjustments but it will be over a longer period of time. I guess that when i get rid of the g i could sell the camber adjusters.... but that still wouldnt really be worth it monetarily speaking. plus i would get to enjoy that negative camber look and handling

i will probably be doing a drop about the same amount as eibach pro kit (getting the basics because the spring rates are higher)... i will be using toyo t1 19" tires 9.5 in rear and 8.5 in front 245-35-19/275-35-19 .... if i just get the suspension done without camber adjusters...and then get alignment to get as close to factory spec as possible, how would the life of my tires be affected?

dwnshift

iTrader: (1)

Its not just about tread life........its about SAFETY. Too much neg camber is more dangerous for street driving than not enough. Your braking distance will suffer the most....ecsp in wet conditions. Once you wear out the tires it will be even worse. Neg camber only improves handling when it is set properly......its not a more is always better issue.

V35

Hey, I went a somewhat economical route when I got my whole setup. I started with tein basics and lowered the front .08 inches, and dropped the rear 1.5 inches. Next I purchased the rear camber arms from kinetix, and a pair of toe bolts from iapdirect.com. These 2 parts will adjust my rear camber as well as toe. I have no adjustment for the front, but it isn't off by much because I dropped it less than an inch. I have 0 finger gap all around.

RazNips

thats sounds like the drop i want... i dont want my tires tucked and car SLAMMED ( i have like 15 damn speedbumps everyday coming into the high school parking lot) I just want to get it where i have NO wheel well at all because i have seen a lot of pictures of 19inch wheels and since they go to the lower profile tire generally, they look smaller than the stock 18's. I have a friend with 18's and sitting next to my stock wheels with pilots on them, they look like 17's... its just because of the tire gap. I would imagine that a little negative camber in the front will not be a big problem since they generally wear slower than the rear's anyways on a rwd car. I'm probably going to go the same route as u since u have the same wheels and coilovers that im going to get (size wheels and tires at elast). Do you happen to have any pictures of your car that i could see?

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

If you do not want to spend $$ on the front and your willing to have whatever negitive front camber you end up with because of that, V35's solution is the way to go. $219 for the Kinetix camber arm's and you should be able to get the SPC toe cam bolts for $45.

V35

heres a pic , front spec is close because the drop isnt even an inch.

PhoenixINX

Have to admit BJ, your products are great...

... though my JICs brought my car that low, and amazingly enough my local shop brought my fronts within spec and my rears are only .04 off from maximum spec.

Not bad for OEM adjustment.

350ed

iTrader: (17)

BJ, can you please explain your below statement please (here or via PM). I was planning to put some Toe/Traction-whatever-you-wanna-call-them arms in soon.
I was under the impression they were replacing pieces with beefier ones with some extra adjustment for large drops.
Thanks.

dwnshift

iTrader: (1)

For rear toe adjustment after lowering..the best solution for the suspension is to modify the subframe.
the hole that the eccentric bolt gues through needs to be made larger. You can then either but new eccentric bolts that have a bigger offset to them our grind flats on the washers. This will give you more adjustment for toe.
What other companies are callling "toe arms" are trailing or traction arms. The rear suspension travels in an arc across two axis's.....by adjusting the trailing arms length ..it will actually start causing toe steer issues under compression. This arm should not be chaged in length to adjust toe. For the suspension geometry you are causing more harm than good.
There is a reason that that arm from the factory is a specific legnth.
One if the first things we did when we started building the car was have the entire suspesnion geometry front and rear plotted by one the top race car engineers in the country. We have a 15 page book filled with notes from his report.

Gsedan35

iTrader: (10)

Exactly what I've been saying, the oem suspension does not adjust toe with adjustable radius arms for a reason. Adjust from the oem location with aftermarket toe cam bolts that offer more adjustment then the same oem bolts. Of course to use those aftermarket bolts (SPC) you have to modify the subframe with a dremel to use them, but it's easy to do) Would be nice to see pics of a certain companies new lower arm that will offer more toe control at the oem location and hopefully eliminate heady oem bushing slope,..........(grin, hint, hint).

350ed

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the good info. Do you see any benefit to replacing the stock bar with traction arms yet keeping them close in length? They were advertised to help minimize wheel hop...

Where did you guys buy the 350z SPC parts from?