DIY Rear Camber installation?
07-22-2008 | 07:05 PM
#2
Here is a write of for taking apart the rear suspension
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-susp...d-yusoslo.html
Here is a picture of one installed
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-susp...one-wrong.html
My suspension was dropped when I installed mine so I won't comment on the easiest way to swap them.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-susp...d-yusoslo.html
Here is a picture of one installed
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-susp...one-wrong.html
My suspension was dropped when I installed mine so I won't comment on the easiest way to swap them.
Last edited by MikeyG; 07-22-2008 at 07:11 PM.
07-26-2008 | 10:21 PM
#4
Originally Posted by wasiu0607
You have to take apart the suspension?
1. The lower control arm: the black one.
2. The spring perch arm: the grey one where the rear spring sits.
Installation:
A. Replace the lower control arm with the Camber Kit Arm. Use stock toe bolt here.
B. Remove the spring perch arm and reinstall with the Toe Bolt in the Kit. Use the template in the kit and a Dremel to drill out the hole. Make the hole only big enough so that the Toe Bolt BARELY turns 360. DO NOT MAKE THE HOLE TOO BIG OR THE TOE BOLT WILL MOVE EVEN AFTER TIGHTENING IT DOWN.
Remember to get your car aligned after letting the springs settle: about 500 miles.
07-26-2008 | 11:21 PM
#5
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Originally Posted by zBear
Only part of the suspension has to be taken apart.
1. The lower control arm: the black one.
2. The spring perch arm: the grey one where the rear spring sits.
Installation:
A. Replace the lower control arm with the Camber Kit Arm. Use stock toe bolt here.
B. Remove the spring perch arm and reinstall with the Toe Bolt in the Kit. Use the template in the kit and a Dremel to drill out the hole. Make the hole only big enough so that the Toe Bolt BARELY turns 360. DO NOT MAKE THE HOLE TOO BIG OR THE TOE BOLT WILL MOVE EVEN AFTER TIGHTENING IT DOWN.
Remember to get your car aligned after letting the springs settle: about 500 miles.
1. The lower control arm: the black one.
2. The spring perch arm: the grey one where the rear spring sits.
Installation:
A. Replace the lower control arm with the Camber Kit Arm. Use stock toe bolt here.
B. Remove the spring perch arm and reinstall with the Toe Bolt in the Kit. Use the template in the kit and a Dremel to drill out the hole. Make the hole only big enough so that the Toe Bolt BARELY turns 360. DO NOT MAKE THE HOLE TOO BIG OR THE TOE BOLT WILL MOVE EVEN AFTER TIGHTENING IT DOWN.
Remember to get your car aligned after letting the springs settle: about 500 miles.
Hey, thanks for you rreply. I have a few questions id like to get cleared on.
1.) What kind of tools would I need to take apart the control arm and the spring perch arm? I won't need spring compressor or any of those tools since I'm not taking the springs apart from the shocks right?
2.) Which hole am I drilling with the dremel?
3.) So I replace the spring perch arm with the toe bolt that comes with the camber kit? That means the car will now have 4 toe bolts total for both sides?
Thanks.
07-27-2008 | 12:42 AM
#6
Originally Posted by wasiu0607
Hey, thanks for you rreply. I have a few questions id like to get cleared on.
1.) What kind of tools would I need to take apart the control arm and the spring perch arm? I won't need spring compressor or any of those tools since I'm not taking the springs apart from the shocks right?
2.) Which hole am I drilling with the dremel?
3.) So I replace the spring perch arm with the toe bolt that comes with the camber kit? That means the car will now have 4 toe bolts total for both sides?
Thanks.
1.) What kind of tools would I need to take apart the control arm and the spring perch arm? I won't need spring compressor or any of those tools since I'm not taking the springs apart from the shocks right?
2.) Which hole am I drilling with the dremel?
3.) So I replace the spring perch arm with the toe bolt that comes with the camber kit? That means the car will now have 4 toe bolts total for both sides?
Thanks.
2. The hole on the end of the spring bucket nearest to the center of the car.
3. You replace the OEM "teo bolt" on the end of the spring bucket with the new "toe bolt" from the camber kit. You replace the camber arm with the adjustable camber arm, but do not change the bolts on this arm.
07-27-2008 | 10:46 AM
#7
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Originally Posted by redlude97
1. Depends on how tight the bolts are, a breaker bar is usually the minimum.
2. The hole on the end of the spring bucket nearest to the center of the car.
3. You replace the OEM "teo bolt" on the end of the spring bucket with the new "toe bolt" from the camber kit. You replace the camber arm with the adjustable camber arm, but do not change the bolts on this arm.
2. The hole on the end of the spring bucket nearest to the center of the car.
3. You replace the OEM "teo bolt" on the end of the spring bucket with the new "toe bolt" from the camber kit. You replace the camber arm with the adjustable camber arm, but do not change the bolts on this arm.
Won't a wrench work for unscrewing the toe bolt? Also, im not quite sure what the drilling is for, since I am basically replacing parts. Arent the OEM toe bolts the same size as the aftermarket one?
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07-27-2008 | 11:03 AM
#8
Originally Posted by wasiu0607
Won't a wrench work for unscrewing the toe bolt? Also, im not quite sure what the drilling is for, since I am basically replacing parts. Arent the OEM toe bolts the same size as the aftermarket one?
Follow the template that came with your kit and remember you only have to drill ONE SIDE. You drill INWARD, toward the center of the car which gives you adjustment range to fix Toe In, bringing the rear straight again. There is no need to drill OUTWARD because that gives you adjustment to increase Toe, which is something you don't need.
07-27-2008 | 12:09 PM
#10
Originally Posted by wasiu0607
So i am removing the OEM toe bolt and replacing with the new toe bolt, but have to drill the existing hole here since it's too small to fit the new toe bolt?
You are drilling sideways, NOT BIGGER. Imagine the shape of a medicine capsule. That is the shape you are drilling.
07-27-2008 | 12:11 PM
#11
Here is a good DIY write up for the toe bolt install with pics.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-susp...-protocav.html
Click on the link in the first post and read through.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-susp...-protocav.html
Click on the link in the first post and read through.
07-27-2008 | 01:35 PM
#12
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Haha i think i get it now. I am basically just making the "medicine pill" bigger in circumference.
Is there any place that rents out dremels? I dont have one and dont think i want to spend $50 for something i only use once.
Is there any place that rents out dremels? I dont have one and dont think i want to spend $50 for something i only use once.
07-27-2008 | 03:05 PM
#14
I don't know of any places to rent out Dremels. You could try to use a hand file, but it is worth the investment to get the Dremel or any rotary tool. It will be make your installation A LOT easier and more accurate.
Try your local Swapmeet, eBay, or Costco for a non-Dremel brand rotary tool if you're only going to use it once. Here are some samples:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40457
http://cgi.ebay.com/161-PIECE-ROTARY...3286.m14.l1318
You will have no problem putting the car back to stock with the OEM Toe Bolts.
Try your local Swapmeet, eBay, or Costco for a non-Dremel brand rotary tool if you're only going to use it once. Here are some samples:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40457
http://cgi.ebay.com/161-PIECE-ROTARY...3286.m14.l1318
You will have no problem putting the car back to stock with the OEM Toe Bolts.
07-31-2008 | 11:22 PM
#15
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Thx. I was just reading the DIY guide from spc's website, and i have a few concerns with the bolded parts:
For step 5, what tools do i use to tighten it and what is the manufacturer's specification on how tight it should be? I dont know if I can tighten them as much as air tools can.
For step 6, it says to lift car up by spring mount... So basically i lower the car all the way and remove the jack, and then place it by spring mount and raise vehicle? From what i know, there's no frame anywhere for me to lay my jack...
1. Before beginning any alignment always check for loose or worn parts, tire pressure, and odd tire wear patterns.
2. Raise vehicle by frame and support properly. Remove rear wheel and tire.
3. Remove front lower control arm link. (This arm has the stock camber adjuster at the inner end.)
4. Make sure that both ends of the 72050 arm have equal threads showing on either side of the turnbuckle and install into vehicle with bushing end toward the center of the vehicle. Use original bolts and tighten bolts slightly with the cam bolt in the neutral position.
5. Reinstall tire and wheel, lower vehicle and tighten bolts to manufacturer's specifications.
6. Lift vehicle under rear spring seat until tire is just off the ground.
7. Remove stock toe cam bolt and drop arm down out of the way by lowering vehicle slightly.
CAUTION: Always use appropriate safety devices to support the weight of the vehicle while servicing any suspension component.
8. Mark area to elongate hole with template provided and use #85126 Rotary file or equivalent to elongate slot. Check to make sure hole is the right size by placing the new bolt with a cam on the head into the hole, it should rotate 360 degrees.
9. Reinstall control arm by raising the vehicle slightly and install the bolt with a cam on either side. Install locknut and tighten slightly.
10. Lower vehicle and adjust toe and camber using the new toe cam bolt and the new camber arm. When all adjustments are made tighten all fasteners including adjustable control arm locknuts.
Note: The maximum length of the arm is reached when the flat on one rod is visible at the end of the turnbuckle adjuster. DO NOT lengthen the arm beyond this point.
11. Complete vehicle alignment and road test vehicle.
2. Raise vehicle by frame and support properly. Remove rear wheel and tire.
3. Remove front lower control arm link. (This arm has the stock camber adjuster at the inner end.)
4. Make sure that both ends of the 72050 arm have equal threads showing on either side of the turnbuckle and install into vehicle with bushing end toward the center of the vehicle. Use original bolts and tighten bolts slightly with the cam bolt in the neutral position.
5. Reinstall tire and wheel, lower vehicle and tighten bolts to manufacturer's specifications.
6. Lift vehicle under rear spring seat until tire is just off the ground.
7. Remove stock toe cam bolt and drop arm down out of the way by lowering vehicle slightly.
CAUTION: Always use appropriate safety devices to support the weight of the vehicle while servicing any suspension component.
8. Mark area to elongate hole with template provided and use #85126 Rotary file or equivalent to elongate slot. Check to make sure hole is the right size by placing the new bolt with a cam on the head into the hole, it should rotate 360 degrees.
9. Reinstall control arm by raising the vehicle slightly and install the bolt with a cam on either side. Install locknut and tighten slightly.
10. Lower vehicle and adjust toe and camber using the new toe cam bolt and the new camber arm. When all adjustments are made tighten all fasteners including adjustable control arm locknuts.
Note: The maximum length of the arm is reached when the flat on one rod is visible at the end of the turnbuckle adjuster. DO NOT lengthen the arm beyond this point.
11. Complete vehicle alignment and road test vehicle.
For step 6, it says to lift car up by spring mount... So basically i lower the car all the way and remove the jack, and then place it by spring mount and raise vehicle? From what i know, there's no frame anywhere for me to lay my jack...
08-01-2008 | 01:58 PM
#16
a torque wrench - 80 ft lbs
put the jack exactly where it says to - right under the rear spring, which sits in a "bucket"
you're really overthinking the install....it becomes clear as day with the instructions in front of you, when you are under the car, it really is a very easy install
put the jack exactly where it says to - right under the rear spring, which sits in a "bucket"
you're really overthinking the install....it becomes clear as day with the instructions in front of you, when you are under the car, it really is a very easy install
08-04-2008 | 01:38 PM
#17
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From: Inland Empire.
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
a torque wrench - 80 ft lbs
put the jack exactly where it says to - right under the rear spring, which sits in a "bucket"
you're really overthinking the install....it becomes clear as day with the instructions in front of you, when you are under the car, it really is a very easy install
put the jack exactly where it says to - right under the rear spring, which sits in a "bucket"
you're really overthinking the install....it becomes clear as day with the instructions in front of you, when you are under the car, it really is a very easy install
Thx Adam. The thing is, I dont have ths camber kit with me right now, and I am getting the Circuit Sports rear camber kit instead. From your exierience, are all the aftermarket camber kits the same, meaning they all require elongating and such? Also, how do I apply 80 ft lbs to the torque wrench?
Last edited by CKY881; 08-04-2008 at 01:40 PM.
08-04-2008 | 01:42 PM
#18
I have no idea who or what Circuit Sports is, so unfortunately I can't say. Best bet is probably just calling them and asking
edit - from the look of their website, they don't even make a camber kit, so I have no idea what you're even getting.
There is a reason you find the vast majority of people using the Eibach/SPC kit. It's inexpensive, easy to install and works
edit - from the look of their website, they don't even make a camber kit, so I have no idea what you're even getting.
There is a reason you find the vast majority of people using the Eibach/SPC kit. It's inexpensive, easy to install and works
08-06-2008 | 08:40 PM
#19
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From: Inland Empire.
Originally Posted by zBear
Only part of the suspension has to be taken apart.
1. The lower control arm: the black one.
2. The spring perch arm: the grey one where the rear spring sits.
Installation:
A. Replace the lower control arm with the Camber Kit Arm. Use stock toe bolt here.
B. Remove the spring perch arm and reinstall with the Toe Bolt in the Kit. Use the template in the kit and a Dremel to drill out the hole. Make the hole only big enough so that the Toe Bolt BARELY turns 360. DO NOT MAKE THE HOLE TOO BIG OR THE TOE BOLT WILL MOVE EVEN AFTER TIGHTENING IT DOWN.
Remember to get your car aligned after letting the springs settle: about 500 miles.
1. The lower control arm: the black one.
2. The spring perch arm: the grey one where the rear spring sits.
Installation:
A. Replace the lower control arm with the Camber Kit Arm. Use stock toe bolt here.
B. Remove the spring perch arm and reinstall with the Toe Bolt in the Kit. Use the template in the kit and a Dremel to drill out the hole. Make the hole only big enough so that the Toe Bolt BARELY turns 360. DO NOT MAKE THE HOLE TOO BIG OR THE TOE BOLT WILL MOVE EVEN AFTER TIGHTENING IT DOWN.
Remember to get your car aligned after letting the springs settle: about 500 miles.
Hey zbear, i just noticed something while going thru the steps again.
In your step B, you mentioned to remove spring perch arm and reinstall with the spc toe bolt. Does that mean there is another bolt attached to the spring arm already, and i have to replace that bolt with the spc bolt?
08-06-2008 | 10:20 PM
#20
Originally Posted by wasiu0607
Hey zbear, i just noticed something while going thru the steps again.
In your step B, you mentioned to remove spring perch arm and reinstall with the spc toe bolt. Does that mean there is another bolt attached to the spring arm already, and i have to replace that bolt with the spc bolt?
In your step B, you mentioned to remove spring perch arm and reinstall with the spc toe bolt. Does that mean there is another bolt attached to the spring arm already, and i have to replace that bolt with the spc bolt?
RED CIRCLE: This is where the spring bucket attaches with the factory toe bolt. Use the SPC Toe Bolt here.
BLUE CIRCE: This is where your SPC Camber Arm attaches. Use the factory Toe Bolt here.
Once you actually start the install, everything becomes clear.
Last edited by zBear; 08-06-2008 at 10:24 PM.