New Price Quote for '05 Touring
#5
As you know, buying a car is 3 separate transactions:
1. Negotiate trade-in value
2. Negotiate price of new car
3. Arrange for financing
Salespeople have a tendency to work backwards from step #3. They'll quote you a monthly payment, then make the other numbers “fit.” Don't do it.
Start with trade-in value, and settle for a reasonable price. Dealers can give you a bargain price on a new car, then “profit” from underpricing the trade-in. Blue book is a guideline, but very flexible.
The price of a new car baffles many buyers, and advertised prices are bologna: the dealer will either low ball or highball the figure. Remember that an offer to sell is not binding, but an offer to buy is. So study the prices, and make your best offer. If you offer say $30,000, and the salesperson says “I might be able to go $32,000,” and you say “We’ll, I think I can go $31,000,” then you're on a slippery slope downhill. The salesperson knows that if he can “press” you for $1,000, he’ll try for another $1,000. Make an offer - stick with it.
After you have agreed to a price, any add-ons like super gloss packages and VIN window etching, just firmly say NO. Or walk away.
The finance guy is the scariest of all characters. Talk interest rates, not monthly payments. Big dealers like Chevrolet Nissan finance through GMAC, and have little wiggle room. You may be able to get half a point off.
And last, if the numbers change, or you feel uncomfortable, that's a good sign something is amiss. Just say “Thank you very much” and walk away.
1. Negotiate trade-in value
2. Negotiate price of new car
3. Arrange for financing
Salespeople have a tendency to work backwards from step #3. They'll quote you a monthly payment, then make the other numbers “fit.” Don't do it.
Start with trade-in value, and settle for a reasonable price. Dealers can give you a bargain price on a new car, then “profit” from underpricing the trade-in. Blue book is a guideline, but very flexible.
The price of a new car baffles many buyers, and advertised prices are bologna: the dealer will either low ball or highball the figure. Remember that an offer to sell is not binding, but an offer to buy is. So study the prices, and make your best offer. If you offer say $30,000, and the salesperson says “I might be able to go $32,000,” and you say “We’ll, I think I can go $31,000,” then you're on a slippery slope downhill. The salesperson knows that if he can “press” you for $1,000, he’ll try for another $1,000. Make an offer - stick with it.
After you have agreed to a price, any add-ons like super gloss packages and VIN window etching, just firmly say NO. Or walk away.
The finance guy is the scariest of all characters. Talk interest rates, not monthly payments. Big dealers like Chevrolet Nissan finance through GMAC, and have little wiggle room. You may be able to get half a point off.
And last, if the numbers change, or you feel uncomfortable, that's a good sign something is amiss. Just say “Thank you very much” and walk away.
Last edited by davidv; 08-29-2005 at 04:35 PM.
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#9
Originally Posted by Navygold
davidy...I'd have to disagree with you there. Start with the price of the car. Finallize it. Then you can work on your trade in and financing.
CarMax has an interesting trade-in policy. They will price your car, and the price is good for 30 days on any car on the lot. Why do you suppose that they market this “guaranteed trade-in?”
#10
Because it's horribly low. I went to Auto Nation or one of those places like it that offered that 30 day price when I wanted to sell a car and not buy another one. I only went there to try to save the hassle of selling the car. The figure they gave me was horribly low.
I've just had bad luck with dealing with the trade in and the new car price before. Even when a trade in price was agreed on, they adjusted the new car price to "make the numbers work." I just keep it all seperate now. I've had better luck with working on the price of the new car and telling them I didn't have a trade, then throwing the trade onto the table once a price is agreed on for the new car. If the trade will make or break the deal, this tends to work out better for me.
But that's just my experience.
I've just had bad luck with dealing with the trade in and the new car price before. Even when a trade in price was agreed on, they adjusted the new car price to "make the numbers work." I just keep it all seperate now. I've had better luck with working on the price of the new car and telling them I didn't have a trade, then throwing the trade onto the table once a price is agreed on for the new car. If the trade will make or break the deal, this tends to work out better for me.
But that's just my experience.
#11
I got another quote for a Chrome Silver '05 Touring Coupe for $31.5K. MSRP is at $33,900++. Im going crazy!!! Here's my list in review:
1. '05 Touring Daytona Blue at $30K
2. '05 Touring Chrome Silver at $31.5K
3. 35th Anniv Ed Ultra Yellow at $35K
...help me...
1. '05 Touring Daytona Blue at $30K
2. '05 Touring Chrome Silver at $31.5K
3. 35th Anniv Ed Ultra Yellow at $35K
...help me...
#12
Take a look at this thread, it should help with the steps others have mentioned:
https://my350z.com/forum/northern-california/137501-norcal-350z-buying-guide.html
Let me know if you have any opinions on the thread.
https://my350z.com/forum/northern-california/137501-norcal-350z-buying-guide.html
Let me know if you have any opinions on the thread.
#13
Originally Posted by Maxfrost
I got another quote for a Chrome Silver '05 Touring Coupe for $31.5K. MSRP is at $33,900++. Im going crazy!!! Here's my list in review:
1. '05 Touring Daytona Blue at $30K
2. '05 Touring Chrome Silver at $31.5K
3. 35th Anniv Ed Ultra Yellow at $35K
...help me...
1. '05 Touring Daytona Blue at $30K
2. '05 Touring Chrome Silver at $31.5K
3. 35th Anniv Ed Ultra Yellow at $35K
...help me...
I just bought an '05 Touring, Chrome Silver, 6 speed manual for 31,500. Anywhere near or below 31 and you are doing pretty well for a new Touring.
The 35th Anniversary edition is currently the most pricey of the 350z lineup, and has the 300hp variant of the V6. All other models of the 350z (excluding the Track model) have a 287 hp engine. Also, the Ultra Yellow paint is exclusive to the 35th Anniversary edition... I know this because I wanted it...
Chanes are, you will be happy with any of the car's that you have listed above, they are all fairly good deals, and it really comes down to your preference of color and options between the three.
#14
Originally Posted by tropicalypso
I just bought an '05 Touring, Chrome Silver, 6 speed manual for 31,500. Anywhere near or below 31 and you are doing pretty well for a new Touring.
The 35th Anniversary edition is currently the most pricey of the 350z lineup, and has the 300hp variant of the V6. All other models of the 350z (excluding the Track model) have a 287 hp engine. Also, the Ultra Yellow paint is exclusive to the 35th Anniversary edition... I know this because I wanted it...
Chanes are, you will be happy with any of the car's that you have listed above, they are all fairly good deals, and it really comes down to your preference of color and options between the three.
The 35th Anniversary edition is currently the most pricey of the 350z lineup, and has the 300hp variant of the V6. All other models of the 350z (excluding the Track model) have a 287 hp engine. Also, the Ultra Yellow paint is exclusive to the 35th Anniversary edition... I know this because I wanted it...
Chanes are, you will be happy with any of the car's that you have listed above, they are all fairly good deals, and it really comes down to your preference of color and options between the three.
#16
Originally Posted by tropicalypso
I just bought an '05 Touring, Chrome Silver, 6 speed manual for 31,500. Anywhere near or below 31 and you are doing pretty well for a new Touring.
The 35th Anniversary edition is currently the most pricey of the 350z lineup, and has the 300hp variant of the V6. All other models of the 350z (excluding the Track model) have a 287 hp engine. Also, the Ultra Yellow paint is exclusive to the 35th Anniversary edition... I know this because I wanted it...
Chanes are, you will be happy with any of the car's that you have listed above, they are all fairly good deals, and it really comes down to your preference of color and options between the three.
The 35th Anniversary edition is currently the most pricey of the 350z lineup, and has the 300hp variant of the V6. All other models of the 350z (excluding the Track model) have a 287 hp engine. Also, the Ultra Yellow paint is exclusive to the 35th Anniversary edition... I know this because I wanted it...
Chanes are, you will be happy with any of the car's that you have listed above, they are all fairly good deals, and it really comes down to your preference of color and options between the three.
Acutally, Tropicalypso is partly right. The 35th Ann z is MSRP'd at $37,200 making it the second most expensive Z behind the Grand Touring Roadster ($39,300 MSRP)
According to edmunds.com, the ultr yellow paint is also available for the GT model, but I haven't seen any...
#17
Originally Posted by jcandas
Acutally, Tropicalypso is partly right. The 35th Ann z is MSRP'd at $37,200 making it the second most expensive Z behind the Grand Touring Roadster ($39,300 MSRP)
According to edmunds.com, the ultr yellow paint is also available for the GT model, but I haven't seen any...
According to edmunds.com, the ultr yellow paint is also available for the GT model, but I haven't seen any...
I stand corrected
#19
thanks a lot guys!!! Im really confused right now which one to buy because the DB Touring and the UY 35th are currently in stock at the dealership 30miles away from home, while the CS Touring is 200miles away... what to do??? what to do???
#20
Originally Posted by davidv
As you know, buying a car is 3 separate transactions:
1. Negotiate trade-in value
2. Negotiate price of new car
3. Arrange for financing
Salespeople have a tendency to work backwards from step #3. They'll quote you a monthly payment, then make the other numbers “fit.” Don't do it.
Start with trade-in value, and settle for a reasonable price. Dealers can give you a bargain price on a new car, then “profit” from underpricing the trade-in. Blue book is a guideline, but very flexible.
The price of a new car baffles many buyers, and advertised prices are bologna: the dealer will either low ball or highball the figure. Remember that an offer to sell is not binding, but an offer to buy is. So study the prices, and make your best offer. If you offer say $30,000, and the salesperson says “I might be able to go $32,000,” and you say “We’ll, I think I can go $31,000,” then you're on a slippery slope downhill. The salesperson knows that if he can “press” you for $1,000, he’ll try for another $1,000. Make an offer - stick with it.
After you have agreed to a price, any add-ons like super gloss packages and VIN window etching, just firmly say NO. Or walk away.
The finance guy is the scariest of all characters. Talk interest rates, not monthly payments. Big dealers like Chevrolet Nissan finance through GMAC, and have little wiggle room. You may be able to get half a point off.
And last, if the numbers change, or you feel uncomfortable, that's a good sign something is amiss. Just say “Thank you very much” and walk away.
1. Negotiate trade-in value
2. Negotiate price of new car
3. Arrange for financing
Salespeople have a tendency to work backwards from step #3. They'll quote you a monthly payment, then make the other numbers “fit.” Don't do it.
Start with trade-in value, and settle for a reasonable price. Dealers can give you a bargain price on a new car, then “profit” from underpricing the trade-in. Blue book is a guideline, but very flexible.
The price of a new car baffles many buyers, and advertised prices are bologna: the dealer will either low ball or highball the figure. Remember that an offer to sell is not binding, but an offer to buy is. So study the prices, and make your best offer. If you offer say $30,000, and the salesperson says “I might be able to go $32,000,” and you say “We’ll, I think I can go $31,000,” then you're on a slippery slope downhill. The salesperson knows that if he can “press” you for $1,000, he’ll try for another $1,000. Make an offer - stick with it.
After you have agreed to a price, any add-ons like super gloss packages and VIN window etching, just firmly say NO. Or walk away.
The finance guy is the scariest of all characters. Talk interest rates, not monthly payments. Big dealers like Chevrolet Nissan finance through GMAC, and have little wiggle room. You may be able to get half a point off.
And last, if the numbers change, or you feel uncomfortable, that's a good sign something is amiss. Just say “Thank you very much” and walk away.
1st> make sure an offer you make that you're going to stick to is a reasonable one. Remember, you're buying a Nissan 350z, not a Sentra. Typically a 350z has a mark up, like any other car, of about 10%. I got my touring roadster (msrp 38000) for 35000. Don't expect any dealer to go into holdback monies to sell you one. $500 over dealer invoice is a more than fair price. Employess of most Nissan dealers pay that.
2nd> Most aftermarket stuff, like undercoating, fabric protection are garbage. The clear bra is a good investment.
3rd> Finance: If you read the huge, long, mesmorizing contract you will see that the APR is negotiable. Remember at a dealer, like nissan, they may be using up to 15 banks to determine the best one for you. There could be as much as 3 points of negotiating room. Remember, your credit=your rate.
Good luck...keep your guards up. The dealer is a business like everywhere else. A great one, because its one of the only business places you can go into this day and age and negotiate. When was the last time you went into Home Depot and negotiated on the price of some lawn equipment.
Eddie