6swhite350z

the lease calculators have always seemed wrong. i calculate a specific price.. go into the dealership, and they tell me there is no way that can happen blablabla

anyway.. i had a question.. if im gona negotiate a lease as if i were buying it.. i should tell the sales man that i wanna buy it.. then in the end say, actually i wanna lease it?

and i believe on advertised specials, there is no negotiating the price. it is as is

Dialn24

I am talking about getting a bid on a 6 month old car and trying to trade it. Isn't that what you are trying to do?

and you don't have to tell the salesperson you are buying when you are really wanting to lease.

Just don't get caught up fixating on the payments, and NOT what you are really paying for the car/getting for a trade. I know payments are important too, but getting a customer only fixated on payments is how a dealership can quickly make money.

$10 a month may not seem like tons to someone, but that's $500 to a dealership for a 60 month loan.

usmanasif

iTrader: (4)

As others have said as well, leasing with intent to purchase it later is almost always a bad idea. Any equity left in the car at the end will have to be paid by you at the time of purchase, and you will come far behind where you would be had you financed it from day 1. A very hefty price to pay.

6swhite350z

not planning on purchasing after a lease. i want a 2 - 3 year lease, nothing over 3 years

Beer Goggles

iTrader: (2)

If they tell you all the numbers that they are using the Lease Calcs are very close (maybe lower by $10). Always, always ask for all the factors before you do anything and put them into the loan. That's how I was able to find out about where I was getting ripped and what was a good deal. You don't have to tell them you're buying it but know what the lowest price they would sell the car for. Nissan doesn't have really good leasing programs through NMAC and technically the lease is through an outside back and just like a purchase.

The thing that's going to suck is Nissan and most of their banks will have a high APR (money factor) and don't have lots to take off the price of the car (cap cost) if you find an 05 you may get a better lease and since it's a rental you don't need the latest model out there if they have left overs. I have such funny stories of dealers trying to rip us off for a lease and me showing them that printout.

We got our 05 Touareg V8 for $515/month with -$1500 down. That's on a $48,000 truck.

maxipad96

iTrader: (5)

+1 on not putting any money down on a lease. Reason is, if by chance you crash the car, the 5k you put down on the lease is completely lost. You will never see that money again.

Dialn24

Great point. You are much better taking the higher payment and keeping that money you have down and using it to get to the "payment" you really wanted to be at.

wolfeman

long time reader, seldom poster but as I am now leasing my 2nd Z I thought I would share how things worked out for me.

feb 2003:
I got a 2003 silver enth,6 spd and added nissan leather seats at the dealership for right at 30K out the door. (I traded in my 1994 NA 300ZX for like 10K which was about what I owed on it) I put zero down on a 42 month lease (15K mi/yr) and they paid 1st month payment..buyout was around $16500 and would have been up in August 2006. Payment was $515 with tax.

March 2006:

I loved every mile on my 2003 but was getting tired of it and wanted a roadster pretty bad so decided to look into what it would take to make that happen. 2003 had 36,000 miles on it.

Found a 2006 Magnetic Black Touring Roadster with NAV/Bose and the mesh/burnt orange seats. Traded in the 03 and got $20K for it. At that point the buyout plus payments that were left made the total payoff $19K. Pocketed the 1K and got the 06 for 36K and did same deal, zero down and they pay 1st payment ($542) but this time elected for the 12K/yr option and here is why:

On the 2003 lease, I had payed for alot of miles that I never used and the whole mileage thing is negated as you simply trade the car in instead of turning it in to the leasing company. I can see how you could get screwed on a car that does not hold its value but the Z does.

3 years is about as long as I like to drive a particular car so this works out great for me. I feel like I am paying for as much of the car as I am using but am curious to see your opinions on this plan

PS. They are asking 24.5 for my 20K trade on their website. I did keep it really nice but that seems a bit much for a 3-4yr old car.

JW-Charlotte, NC

Hypnoz

How can you calculate the residual value? Anyone know how they determine that?

6swhite350z

leasetrader.com is good.. to pick up on someone else's leases without putting any down payments

nissanwarranty

This can be challenging if you add in all the factors:

• Acquisition fee (normally $550 for Nissan's)
• Security Deposit (sometimes waived, otherwise calucalated based on payment)
• Money Factor (interest charged)
• Doc Fee, Title Fee, Lemon Law Fee (dealer and state fees)

An example (without all the factors above):

Purchase Price of the Vehicle is $20,000
Residual Value is 50% or .50
Your Adjusted Residual Value would then be $10,000

Simple when put this way. However after you start negotiating a deal where taxes, interest, fees, and a trade are involved it can become a little more complex.

limeg35

iTrader: (1)

The residual value are calculate from the MSRP of the car not from purchasing price, and fees, tax are not inculded...the residual value are usually determined by third party like auto leasing group from varieties of factor/reason.


Its highly unlikely you will be paying less by leasing and purchase it after the lease is up than just purchase from the start...here is an example...

https://my350z.com/forum/buying-leasing/168400-any-body-lease-their-car.html