3 Steps Of Porter Cable
This is my second time posting but on a different thread, no one has given me a response because of it being an old thread so I ask you guys...
I have a question do you really need to do glaze after you do the swirl remover? I did and it made marks and made the paint look worse, so I re-did the swirl remover again and looks great, I haven't done the glaze again because I got really mad. I only did part before I started.....
So I have done the swirl remover twice now (in certain spots)
I used Macagers (SP) Show case glaze (its yellow in color and smells like bannana's) I also have the wax by the same company....
I had speed on 2 on the Porter Cable with the black pad, I heard the white is better but i used the black because thats what I had, yet it was bad....
It really pissed me off
, like badly so my question to you guys is....
Could I skip right to the wax because I would really like to the get z on the road again!!
Thanks if you can help..
I have a question do you really need to do glaze after you do the swirl remover? I did and it made marks and made the paint look worse, so I re-did the swirl remover again and looks great, I haven't done the glaze again because I got really mad. I only did part before I started.....
So I have done the swirl remover twice now (in certain spots)
I used Macagers (SP) Show case glaze (its yellow in color and smells like bannana's) I also have the wax by the same company....
I had speed on 2 on the Porter Cable with the black pad, I heard the white is better but i used the black because thats what I had, yet it was bad....
It really pissed me off
Could I skip right to the wax because I would really like to the get z on the road again!!
Thanks if you can help..
Yeah, never use the same pad for two different products. You also have to get the right pad for the product, meaning you don't want to use a cutting pad for a polishing product. You also should try and bump up the speed to at least 4-4.5 for optimum results. With the PC on a setting of 2 you are getting almost no cutting action, just application. You have to remember that with the PC random orbital you can't burn the paint.
http://www.autogeek.net/dual-action-polisher.html
Check this site out, too. They highly recommend the Porter Cable and have a lot of user information regarding its use.
Check this site out, too. They highly recommend the Porter Cable and have a lot of user information regarding its use.
Check out these three articles on the PC. Especially the last one!
http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14421
http://www.roadfly.com/magazine/7/po..._buffer.1.html
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/det...1430487&page=1
http://autopia.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14421
http://www.roadfly.com/magazine/7/po..._buffer.1.html
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/det...1430487&page=1
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
Are you using the same pad for the glaze as you used for the swirl removal? Perhaps the pad wasn't clean and small particles left from the polish induced scratches.
No I used a different pad, a black one as stated before.....
I have a few articals on the PC, like that third one you said was great, reas through them quiet well but I don't get why the glaze is making the paint look like ****, along with it being a lot harder then the swirl remover to get off the paint, seems to stay there....
so could I skip glaze step?
so could I skip glaze step?
Yes, skip the glaze. I had a similar problem a while back, the glaze was a ***** to remove. Our resident detailing expert (Kevin Overall) recommended leaving the glaze off and going with just the SMR then protect with Zaino, etc.
so I'm just going to skip to the wax... the wax is a really runny product too by meguiars called "YELLOW WAX" should I use something else and take that one back? I'm also using a brand new pad.
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