Paint Care 101
02-17-2003, 12:05 PM
#1
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Paint Care 101
If there is one thing that sets apart a show car from a minivan it is shine. How many soccer moms do you see rolling in an impeccable vehicle? Barely any. And never does it match the “ora” that a show car seems to drip with. Think to yourself though, what makes that car catch your eye? Of course you might say the rims, body kit, or paint job, but what ties all of that together into a neat package? It is the quality of the detailing. In this article I wish to educate you in how to achieve the same “effect” on your own car. These steps will take a long time, but it is a sacrifice worth making.
**This altogether will take quite a long time, so be sure to set aside a Saturday, or longer for the whole job. **
Step 1. You should always start with a good, quality wash to remove major dust particles that may scratch your paint. Be sure to use a car wash soap such as Meguiars Gold Class and never dish soap or other detergents, as they will only inflict more damage that you started out with. In the shade and with cool paint, use a wash mit or sponge covered in 100% Cotton or chenille and wash the car top to bottom, making sure to keep the vehicle wet. Then rinse with a soft shower of water from top to bottom, only use a hard blast on wheels or wheel wells. Dry the car either with a chamois, California water blade, or soft 100% cotton towel.
Step 2. Now that the car is fairly clean and dry, if your goal is the ultimate shine, you will now follow with a clay kit. A claybar is the best way to further remove harmful particles that inhibit shine and damage paint. It isn't necessary or advised that you use one every time you clean your car, however I usually recommend use every 2-3 months, unless you have a show car and need to look extra "spiffy.” This is mostly because this step will take you about 2 hours. Always be sure to wear gloves when using a claybar. Fingerprints add oils to the clay and any small particles from dirty hands may cause scratches to the paint. Claybar kits usually come with a bottle of Quick Detailer, or a generic version of it, to use as lube. Be sure to keep the surface wet with this while using the claybar. Spray a small area ( 1-2 sq. ft) and rub clay over paint until it feels smoother and there is less friction. You will be able to tell by touch. When the bottom of the clay begins to turn black, knead it into a ball and re-flatten. Continue like this with the rest of the car.
Step 3. Spray down the car with distilled water and wipe dry with a diaper rag. Now it's time to break out the buffer. I do not recommend the use of a buffer without prior knowledge or practice.
What you need to do now is use a cleaner. Be sure to avoid mixture products ( i.e., cleaner/ wax). Think of it this way, if a cleaner is used to remove contaminants, why would you wax them into the paint at the same time? I suggest that you use Meguiars #2 fine-cut cleaner. This will remove any remaining contaminants and begin the feeding process for the paint. When you use Cleaners/polishes they replenish oils into the paint, thus making it shiny. The more you do this, the more oils the paint receives and the shinier it gets. It is similar to hair, in which the polish is like the conditioner.
You will apply a small amount of the cleaner to your buffer and work into paint until it looks clear again. If you develop a slight haze, it isn't a problem, just use a little less next time. It really takes a lot less than you may think. After you finish going over the whole car, wipe down with a new diaper cloth.
Step 4. Spray the car down again with distilled water and wipe dry with another new diaper cloth. Now it's time to polish. Polish is the real character-builder. It will bring out the depth of your paint's shine. However, this is the product you have to be a little more careful with. You can make your car look 100 times better, or you can burn out the paint. You should be safe as long as you DO NOT USE TOO MUCH POLISH AT A TIME. Several small dots across the diameter of the pad are sufficient. I suggest that you use Meguiars #7 Show Car glaze. Despite the name, this is not a true glaze. It is a pure polish. This is the polish I have had the best results with, especially with dark colors. Apply this as you did with the cleaner, working a small amount into the surface at a time. Be sure to work your buffer parallel with the car (front to back, back to front). I'm not exactly sure why, but I have encountered better results with this technique. You will begin to see the shine build as you continue. You will most likely have to cover the car 3 times for a best shine. Use a fresh bonnet each time and spray the car down with distilled water in between coats. By now, the paint will feel very smooth, there will be few to no visible blemishes (unless you have major damage), and the reflection will be clear and distinct.
Step 5. Once again spray the car down with distilled water and wipe dry with a diaper cloth. Now it is time to wax. Contrary to popular belief, wax does not make your car shiny. What makes the paint glow is all the work you have just invested into it. Wax is nothing more than a sealer to lock in all the oils you have just fed your paint. I suggest Meguiars Gold Class or #26 High Tech Yellow wax. You can apply as many coats of wax as you wish. Some say that you get more depth with each new coat, but I suggest no more than 2-3 coats. You will apply the wax as you did the cleaner and polish, in-line with the car and a little at a time. Trying to apply too much wax at a time will actually KILL a little of the shine you just worked for. It is far better to apply a few thin coats than one thick coat, especially if you want to preserve your shine. Again, spray the car down with distilled water and wipe dry with a diaper cloth between coats, ignoring this step after the final wax coat. Then use a clean diaper cloth to remove any dust or cloth particles that may have gathered ( not likely).
If you have finished the rest of the car, it is time to sit back and admire your handiwork, then go pimp it up on the town.
~Jeron Kerridge, Spiffy Detailing
www.spiffydetailing.bravepages.com
spiffydetailing@yahoo.com
Now on:
www.allexperts.com
**This altogether will take quite a long time, so be sure to set aside a Saturday, or longer for the whole job. **
Step 1. You should always start with a good, quality wash to remove major dust particles that may scratch your paint. Be sure to use a car wash soap such as Meguiars Gold Class and never dish soap or other detergents, as they will only inflict more damage that you started out with. In the shade and with cool paint, use a wash mit or sponge covered in 100% Cotton or chenille and wash the car top to bottom, making sure to keep the vehicle wet. Then rinse with a soft shower of water from top to bottom, only use a hard blast on wheels or wheel wells. Dry the car either with a chamois, California water blade, or soft 100% cotton towel.
Step 2. Now that the car is fairly clean and dry, if your goal is the ultimate shine, you will now follow with a clay kit. A claybar is the best way to further remove harmful particles that inhibit shine and damage paint. It isn't necessary or advised that you use one every time you clean your car, however I usually recommend use every 2-3 months, unless you have a show car and need to look extra "spiffy.” This is mostly because this step will take you about 2 hours. Always be sure to wear gloves when using a claybar. Fingerprints add oils to the clay and any small particles from dirty hands may cause scratches to the paint. Claybar kits usually come with a bottle of Quick Detailer, or a generic version of it, to use as lube. Be sure to keep the surface wet with this while using the claybar. Spray a small area ( 1-2 sq. ft) and rub clay over paint until it feels smoother and there is less friction. You will be able to tell by touch. When the bottom of the clay begins to turn black, knead it into a ball and re-flatten. Continue like this with the rest of the car.
Step 3. Spray down the car with distilled water and wipe dry with a diaper rag. Now it's time to break out the buffer. I do not recommend the use of a buffer without prior knowledge or practice.
What you need to do now is use a cleaner. Be sure to avoid mixture products ( i.e., cleaner/ wax). Think of it this way, if a cleaner is used to remove contaminants, why would you wax them into the paint at the same time? I suggest that you use Meguiars #2 fine-cut cleaner. This will remove any remaining contaminants and begin the feeding process for the paint. When you use Cleaners/polishes they replenish oils into the paint, thus making it shiny. The more you do this, the more oils the paint receives and the shinier it gets. It is similar to hair, in which the polish is like the conditioner.
You will apply a small amount of the cleaner to your buffer and work into paint until it looks clear again. If you develop a slight haze, it isn't a problem, just use a little less next time. It really takes a lot less than you may think. After you finish going over the whole car, wipe down with a new diaper cloth.
Step 4. Spray the car down again with distilled water and wipe dry with another new diaper cloth. Now it's time to polish. Polish is the real character-builder. It will bring out the depth of your paint's shine. However, this is the product you have to be a little more careful with. You can make your car look 100 times better, or you can burn out the paint. You should be safe as long as you DO NOT USE TOO MUCH POLISH AT A TIME. Several small dots across the diameter of the pad are sufficient. I suggest that you use Meguiars #7 Show Car glaze. Despite the name, this is not a true glaze. It is a pure polish. This is the polish I have had the best results with, especially with dark colors. Apply this as you did with the cleaner, working a small amount into the surface at a time. Be sure to work your buffer parallel with the car (front to back, back to front). I'm not exactly sure why, but I have encountered better results with this technique. You will begin to see the shine build as you continue. You will most likely have to cover the car 3 times for a best shine. Use a fresh bonnet each time and spray the car down with distilled water in between coats. By now, the paint will feel very smooth, there will be few to no visible blemishes (unless you have major damage), and the reflection will be clear and distinct.
Step 5. Once again spray the car down with distilled water and wipe dry with a diaper cloth. Now it is time to wax. Contrary to popular belief, wax does not make your car shiny. What makes the paint glow is all the work you have just invested into it. Wax is nothing more than a sealer to lock in all the oils you have just fed your paint. I suggest Meguiars Gold Class or #26 High Tech Yellow wax. You can apply as many coats of wax as you wish. Some say that you get more depth with each new coat, but I suggest no more than 2-3 coats. You will apply the wax as you did the cleaner and polish, in-line with the car and a little at a time. Trying to apply too much wax at a time will actually KILL a little of the shine you just worked for. It is far better to apply a few thin coats than one thick coat, especially if you want to preserve your shine. Again, spray the car down with distilled water and wipe dry with a diaper cloth between coats, ignoring this step after the final wax coat. Then use a clean diaper cloth to remove any dust or cloth particles that may have gathered ( not likely).
If you have finished the rest of the car, it is time to sit back and admire your handiwork, then go pimp it up on the town.
~Jeron Kerridge, Spiffy Detailing
www.spiffydetailing.bravepages.com
spiffydetailing@yahoo.com
Now on:
www.allexperts.com
02-17-2003, 12:17 PM
#3
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Oh and for all of you that need a really clean (ie. perfect) car you should check out his website, he does excelent work. He is really good at what he does! He cleaned my car and I was extremely happy with the results. The attached picture was after he cleaned it. My car seriously looks cleaner than when it was new!
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02-20-2003, 10:48 AM
#8
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GOD
You people that nit pic kevery thing need to get a life. Seriously. Whats the point? Do you gain anything by doing it? Do you feel like a "BIG" man because you do it? Rally I want to know. Cause we all know your just small little men with insecuritys. Get a life.
Don't take this the wrong way, I am not trying to hurt anyones feelings. I have known MrSpiffy (ie. Jeron) for every, and he does live down the street (basicaly) from me. So now go find someone else to belittle.
P.S. Cant we all just get along?
P.S.S. Really, there is no need to go and flame others just because they are talking. And what does my talking to my friend have to do with his business?
~Colby
Don't take this the wrong way, I am not trying to hurt anyones feelings. I have known MrSpiffy (ie. Jeron) for every, and he does live down the street (basicaly) from me. So now go find someone else to belittle.
P.S. Cant we all just get along?
P.S.S. Really, there is no need to go and flame others just because they are talking. And what does my talking to my friend have to do with his business?
~Colby
02-20-2003, 04:34 PM
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Hey Spiffy, I'm from San Diego too.... I just got my Z and she really needs a wash/detail. My previous car was white and I used to detail it myself by hand..... My Z is superblack, as a matter of fact, this is the only BLACK car I have ever owned.... I want to detail her up this weekend but I'm very worried about getting swirl marks.... My GF bought me one of those 6" Buffers from Wal-Mart, but I'm hesitant on using it..... Any tips so that my car doesn't get swirled up.....
I used to use Meg. Gold Class on my White car and loved it.... I've also got Meg. #7 and planned on topping it with S100 carnuba wax... I think I'm jus gonna apply these by hand and use my MF towels to buff it out.....
Whats your opinion on the Wal-Mart special....
I used to use Meg. Gold Class on my White car and loved it.... I've also got Meg. #7 and planned on topping it with S100 carnuba wax... I think I'm jus gonna apply these by hand and use my MF towels to buff it out.....
Whats your opinion on the Wal-Mart special....
02-20-2003, 06:32 PM
#11
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I would seriously just return the Wal Mart buffer. It is most likely junk and I wouldn't rist your car. I'm not trying to be negative, but shotcuts can be costly. I would highly recommend you invest in a Porter Cable unit. It'll cost you a bit more, but it will last way longer and provide infinitely better results. The cheapest place to buy one is here:
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...46f+1045888726
As for products, I'd say you're pretty close to on the mark with Meguiars. As I mentioned in the article, start with #2 paint cleaner (ONLY apply with an orbital buffer), follow with #7 polish, and finish with either Gold Class wax or #27 High Tech Yellow wax. Really, I wouldn't want to or really recommend doing any of this by hand (esp. paint cleaner and polish), the risk is too high. I would invest in a buffer first. If possible, practice on another car first. The Porter Cable is a forgiving buffer, but experience is recommended.
Use %100 Cotton or microfiber diaper/ detail rags for all buffing and applying.
Hope this helps.
~Jeron
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...46f+1045888726
As for products, I'd say you're pretty close to on the mark with Meguiars. As I mentioned in the article, start with #2 paint cleaner (ONLY apply with an orbital buffer), follow with #7 polish, and finish with either Gold Class wax or #27 High Tech Yellow wax. Really, I wouldn't want to or really recommend doing any of this by hand (esp. paint cleaner and polish), the risk is too high. I would invest in a buffer first. If possible, practice on another car first. The Porter Cable is a forgiving buffer, but experience is recommended.
Use %100 Cotton or microfiber diaper/ detail rags for all buffing and applying.
Hope this helps.
~Jeron
02-28-2003, 09:05 AM
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Good post except you left out some important stuff. Like what pads to use with there PC DA. Pad makes as much difference as the product. Tell you the truth, you should have just directed everyone here: Autopia
They have much more info than you could ever put on this board. Although his post has some usefull info, If you are serious about detailing go to that website. They have a superior knowledge base.
They have much more info than you could ever put on this board. Although his post has some usefull info, If you are serious about detailing go to that website. They have a superior knowledge base.
03-05-2003, 08:32 AM
#15
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Fine then.
I use Meguiars/ SoftBuff Cutting pads (depending on amount of paint damage needing to be removed) or polishing pads for the fine-cut cleaner, polishing pads for the polish, and polishing pads for wax application. Apply wax a little at a time and work it in fully. Then I use a finishing pad and slightly higher rpm. The reason I did not initially post pads was I wasn't going to assume that everyone would be using he same type of buffer. Not all buffers can use foam pads, but I'm sure autopia says that somewhere.
I am serious about detailing, it's what I do and my results speak for themself. I use the article to start discussions and inject whatever help and/or advice I can. If it's missing something, ask me. That's the whole point. However, as you said, there is way too much to say in this forum. If autopia has everything, replace this entire forum with a link to it.
Stop being overly critical.
~Jeron
I use Meguiars/ SoftBuff Cutting pads (depending on amount of paint damage needing to be removed) or polishing pads for the fine-cut cleaner, polishing pads for the polish, and polishing pads for wax application. Apply wax a little at a time and work it in fully. Then I use a finishing pad and slightly higher rpm. The reason I did not initially post pads was I wasn't going to assume that everyone would be using he same type of buffer. Not all buffers can use foam pads, but I'm sure autopia says that somewhere.
I am serious about detailing, it's what I do and my results speak for themself. I use the article to start discussions and inject whatever help and/or advice I can. If it's missing something, ask me. That's the whole point. However, as you said, there is way too much to say in this forum. If autopia has everything, replace this entire forum with a link to it.
Stop being overly critical.
~Jeron
03-05-2003, 02:53 PM
#16
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Originally posted by MrSpiffy
I am serious about detailing, it's what I do and my results speak for themself. I use the article to start discussions and inject whatever help and/or advice I can. If it's missing something, ask me. That's the whole point. However, as you said, there is way too much to say in this forum. If autopia has everything, replace this entire forum with a link to it.
I am serious about detailing, it's what I do and my results speak for themself. I use the article to start discussions and inject whatever help and/or advice I can. If it's missing something, ask me. That's the whole point. However, as you said, there is way too much to say in this forum. If autopia has everything, replace this entire forum with a link to it.
You people need to get a life. Jeron is an excelent resource regarding auto care and detailing. It is what he does, and he does what he does well. As he said, there is not enough room on this forum to post everything about detailing. But that wasn't the purpose of his article. The purpose was to get discussion going, and to help people take better care of their cars. Oh, by the way, I went over to Autopia, and I had a hard time finding any usefull information regarding the questions that I asked. Plus the questions that I did ask and get an answer to took far to long. If you have any questions for Jeron, you can email him or whatever. Or you can go and find him on AllExperts.com. Look at his approval rating. He knows what he is talking about, so get over your issues.
Peace,
~Colby
03-07-2003, 12:28 PM
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No issues to get over. A detailing forum on here is useless compaired to the real experts over at Autopia. Try using the search tool sometime..... Everything you would ever like to know about auto detailing is right there!!! Friendly ppl too. Not to be mean, but alot of ppl think they are "experts" in auto detailing and in reality are not. Most find this out when they start reading on Autopia.
Based on your first post not being specific enough, some poor soul would have bought a rotary buffer and a wool pad and went at it!! lol
Either be 100% specific, or don't say it at all because some ppl don't know anybetter and can't read between the lines.
Why you use a buffer for waxing??? Seems like a waste of time and product to me since waxing doen'st need to be "worked in". Applying wax is mostly easier to apply by hand.
Based on your first post not being specific enough, some poor soul would have bought a rotary buffer and a wool pad and went at it!! lol
Either be 100% specific, or don't say it at all because some ppl don't know anybetter and can't read between the lines.
Why you use a buffer for waxing??? Seems like a waste of time and product to me since waxing doen'st need to be "worked in". Applying wax is mostly easier to apply by hand.
03-11-2003, 11:02 AM
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No. Ok? is correct. On the Autopia forum, this thread would never have been allowed to take the direction that it has. The forum is moderated by people who are serious about detailing, and you would be hard pressed to find a single thread that contains anything close to a flame. People don't have time for it over there. They are too busy exchanging information the way these guys were trying to do. They don't tolerate small people who want to hide behind their computers and get out their aggression by lashing out at people in an anonymous forum.
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