I dont have any swirl marks yet, but was wonder what causes them and how to avoid them. Thanks!

 

i wash with microfiber!

 

Don't buy Super Black.

 

i dont have black.

 

Rotary (power) buffers cause them. To avoid them, don't use a rotary power buffer.

Detail experts will also tell you to always polish in a straight line (front to back, or side to side)

bill

 

…also you do not start threads in the proper forum yet.

 

This is semi-true, rotary's do cause marks but not swirls. They cause more of a hologram effect, rotarys are your best friend to get rid of serious paint defects, they are used with a strong abrasive compound. After a rotary is used a dual action polisher would be in need to get rid of this 'hologram effect' for a perfect finish. In this step a less aggressive compound is used or polish is used to get rid of the 'hologram' effect. Rotarys arent your enemy they can be your best friend, but you do need to know how to use them if not you can cause more damage than good. I've been doing this for an very long time and my cars have always been swirl free.

When it comes to cleaning the car always make sure you have a lot of water on the car, the water helps 'lubricate' the paint so the dirt floats so to speak freely and this reduces the chances of accidently scratching your clear coat. Also try to use a chenille wash pad to clean the car, this fabric keeps the dirt away from your paint, try to clean the pad often to wash away excess dirt (again to have the least amount of dirt on your paint to reduce the chances of scratches). Another good rule of thumb, use a car cleaner that produces alot of suds this also helps in the 'lubrication' part. When it comes to drying try to blot and not rub. The problem with rubbing is when you're drying its possible that you might have a small rock or small amount of dirt on the cloth, this will cause swirls. Blotting will work better your clear will love it. Hope it helps.



Ed

 

thanks for the advice ed i will definately do a few things from now on!

 

Here's some tips I posted a while back asking the same question in another thread....


What you use and how you wash it are probably more important than what you dry it with.

If you use a sponge or something that holds dirt, then you're scraping the dirt across the surface of your car. Use a lambs wool or cotton chenile mitt. Never use something like a kitchen dish towel or an old T-shirt. Too many things in them that can scratch your paint (i.e. nylon threads).

If you use a 1 gal bucket of water to wash the whole car, then by the time you're finished the water looks like chocolate milk from all the dirt. Again, you're rubbing it all over your paint. Use a 5 gal paint bucket - actually two of them. Once with soapy water to wash with and the second with clear water to rinse the mitt with before soaping it again.

Use powdered detergent? Don't, it doesn't totally dissolve and the solid particles will scratch your paint.

Wash your wheels with the same mitt/cloth as the car? Wash the wheels first? Don't - the brake dust will get into the cloth and your wash water and scratch the paint. Wash the wheels first then rinse everything out before washing the car. I use a soft cloth on the wheels that never touches the cars paint.

Don't wash the lower parts of the car first - they're usually dirtier having picked up road grime, tar, etc. Always wash from the top down.

Drying the car is the easy part to avoiding scratches. When done properly most of the water beads off anyway. What little is left can be absorbed just by laying a WW towel on it. No rubbing - no scratching.

A leaf blower can really be your friend when it comes to drying. Do a search in this forum and you'll see a lot of posts on using one.

If you're serious about avoiding swirls - go to http://autopia.org and sign up then download the free eBook "The Autopia Guide to Detailing". It is an excellent source and reference on all aspects of car care and detailing.

 

Get a bucket with a "false bottom" in it. Griots sells them and you can find the cheaper/just as effective ones at Walmart at times. This allows the grit to settle to the bottom away from your wash mit. I use the sheepskin mits for wheels and tires. Have one for each and change water in between.

 

I've never seen the need for those dirt screens. When do you leave your mitt sit in the bucket so it could sink to the bottom and get in the settled-out dirt? Once I start washing, the mitt stays on my hand and I always wet/rinse it from the top of the bucket.

 

Sounds like you need a third arm!

Seriously. I do the wheels/tires/wheel wells first with their own mitts, frayed end brush (for the lugnut holes) and dump/change the water.

I do the canopy painted part of the hatch first and rinse--the mitt sits in the bucket that long. I work it through the water before moving onto the hood-front fenders and front--rinse/repeat on each side and rear (always do the rear last as it's the dirstiest part).

I rinse my mitt too, but you know it all doesn't come out. You'd be amazed to see the grit in the bottom after washing a really dirty car. I use the Griot's sheepskin mitts for wheels and tires and get new ones about every 3 months. I use to do $$$$$ in college for wealthy customers and they always came back

NOTHING you can do to stop them all though.

 

This is the absolute truth. No matter how careful you are washing/drying, swirls will come back.

Unless someone invents clear coat made out of diamond.