hey i finally got all my zaino products and i've got the process down pretty much except i wanted to know if i have to dry the car inbetween the dawn wash and the clay bar-ing. i know that the area of claying has to be moist so i figure not drying makes sense.

help please.

 

I didn't bother drying it after the wash because I figured it was going to get wet again with the lubricant for the claybar. Unless there is a problem with water spotting I wouldn't worry about drying it.

 

No need to dry. You need lube anyway for the claybar. Ensure you wash after you claybar though.

Best bet for a lube is to mix a bottle with some Z-7 and mix it with water. And there is your spray lube for the Claybar. GL and post pics when you are done.

 

Hmmmmmmm, The truth these young Zaino Jedi speak. Great knowledge have they gained over the years. Welcome to the force my friend!

 

Actually, as occasionally happens, I disagree with Dr Bonz (and Sal) on this one.

I think the best lube for the claybar is Dawn and water.

Why?

Well, the claybar is the final step in removing the previous layer. Wouldn't it be best to use something that cuts and removes wax????

Also, Z7 contains the Zaino polymer. All documentation states that Zaino requires either Z1 or ZFX to bond properly to the bare paint. Isn't it jumping the gun to use Z7 to claybar the bare paint????

Are you going to start calling me Darth Brian?

 

ive been waiting to get my first few layers on but the rain has been terrible in miami the past couple weeks. i can never get enough time to start this process

any opinions on Darth Brian's advice?

 

Yes but I don't think your goal is to have the Zaino polymer in Z-7 bond to your paint at THAT stage (claying). It's just to act as a lube for your clay.

I suppose you could argue that this is just a waste of Z-7 and I guess you would have a point. Go ahead and Dawn away Darth Brian!!!

 

I clayed my mustang w/ a spray bottle filled w/ lube and it took FOREVER.

Spray... spray... spray... spray.... rub... rub... rub... spray... spray... spray.... etc etc etc.

When I did my Z I had just washed w/ Dawn and I dumped the bucket rinsed it out good and added some more dawn and water... Then I'd just dunk my hand w/ the clay in the water and clay away at an area... dunk... rub... repeat. Took a lot less time and was more effective and I rarely found myself without a wet surface to work on. Its really important to keep it really wet and lubed because if it dries some you'll streak the clay on the paint.

Oh and the forcast is for rain pretty much every day for the rest of the week... it sucks. Yesterday was horrible and today looks even worse so far. I think it's rained almost every single day since I got my Z, about 16 days straight now.

 

Think of it this way - Doesn't it look cool with those tight-as-he11 water beads on the car?

BTW: I like dunk-rub better than spray-rub, too.

 

Also, Z7 contains the Zaino polymer. All documentation states that Zaino requires either Z1 or ZFX to bond properly to the bare paint. Isn't it jumping the gun to use Z7 to claybar the bare paint????

I thought the ZFX was only to decrease dry time ???

 

Before there was ZFX, Zaino sold Z1 to be used prior to the first coat, to properly bond the polymer to the clearcoat. Now they say Z1 isn't necessary, ZFX provides the same function. ZFX isn't necessary for every coat, but should at least be used for the first coat and at least once every 10 coats or so after that.

 

Once again, Darth Brian speaks the truth.

Ed (sadly admits to occasionally using the dunk and rub )

 

How about the claying, does that remove the existing coats of Zaino ?

 

No, it does not. Claybar is an interesting thing. It's not abrasive at all, and it has no chemical interaction either.

If you think about paint (and clearcoat), at the very low level, it's not really hard at all. It's fairly soft, and hard particles can become embedded in it. This also holds true for the Zaino polymer. What the claybar does is pick up any particles that are embedded and sticking up above the surface, leaving you with a much smoother (and hence more reflective) surface.

To demonstrate this, after you have washed your car and you think it's real clean, put your hand inside a plastic bag and run your fingertip over your paint. You will be amazed how rough it feels. If you do the same thing on a surface you have just claybarred, the difference is dramatic.