1st time dragging the Z...
Down at E-town Raceway (Raceway Park) tonight (last night, w/e you want to call).
Best time was a 13.983 @ 100.55MPH, my 5th run and final run of the night.

If I can get my 60' down at least a tenth of a second, I have a low 13.9, MAYBE 13.8 run.
How do you guys launch this car best? What tire pressure? RPM's? Dump or feather the clutch? Thanks.
BTW, my other four runs were in order:
14.165 @ 98.11MPH (2.204 60')
15.248 @ 84.84MPH (2.202 60') - Mis-shift from 2nd to 3rd
14.026 @ 100.21MPH (2.337 60')
15.141 @ 98.64MPH (2.654 60') - Terrible launch. Car all over the place.
Best time was a 13.983 @ 100.55MPH, my 5th run and final run of the night.

If I can get my 60' down at least a tenth of a second, I have a low 13.9, MAYBE 13.8 run.
How do you guys launch this car best? What tire pressure? RPM's? Dump or feather the clutch? Thanks.
BTW, my other four runs were in order:
14.165 @ 98.11MPH (2.204 60')
15.248 @ 84.84MPH (2.202 60') - Mis-shift from 2nd to 3rd
14.026 @ 100.21MPH (2.337 60')
15.141 @ 98.64MPH (2.654 60') - Terrible launch. Car all over the place.
Last edited by Armitage; May 17, 2006 at 09:33 PM.
Originally Posted by gimpster621
u mean on tenth of a second? i launch my car at 2500 and use about 26 psi. i feather the clutch too
What 60' times do you generally see?
2,500 is too low. Especially with a revup, you need to learn how to launch at 3,500+. Go around the water box, back up, do a couple of quick little spins to heat up and clean off the tires, feeling for traction as you do. Then pull up to the line, stage, and launch on the last yellow, which will go green before you actually start moving, but don't launch prematurely.
When you launch, launch at least 3,500, but I would launch closer to 4K rpms, dropping the gas pedal quickly as you feather out the clutch in a sudden manner, feeling for traction. This will get better with practice. The quicker you can get off the line, the better your 1/4 time will be. I could hit 1.9' 60's on the factory Potenzas, and averaged 2.0's on the so so runs.
You just have to work on being quick. When I say feather off the line, it happens very quickly, almost as if I am just dropping the clutch.
When you launch, launch at least 3,500, but I would launch closer to 4K rpms, dropping the gas pedal quickly as you feather out the clutch in a sudden manner, feeling for traction. This will get better with practice. The quicker you can get off the line, the better your 1/4 time will be. I could hit 1.9' 60's on the factory Potenzas, and averaged 2.0's on the so so runs.
You just have to work on being quick. When I say feather off the line, it happens very quickly, almost as if I am just dropping the clutch.
Last edited by VeeTec; May 17, 2006 at 10:39 PM.
The first time that you run 13.99 seconds or better (and must have a helmet) is an exciting experience. Starting techniques and tire pressure have been discussed dozens of times, but I don't think you have to read the discussions. You are already on your way to 2.0 60-foot times by virtue of practice.
Last edited by davidv; May 18, 2006 at 04:55 AM.
Oh I forgot about suggestions:
a. Pick a favorite lane. If you have, say, four runs, pick the lane where you get the best 60-foot times. One lane may be better prepped than the other.
b. Pick-up front tire pressure 5 pounds.
c. Front tires straight at the Christmas Tree.
d. If you are working on ET, stage shallow. A shallow stage has the staging light flickering. Then more forward an inch.
e. If possible, choose who you follow. Avoid following an idiot with street tires who drives through the water box, and carries water dripping up to the Christmas Tree. If you can follow a pro-mod with 10.5 inch slicks, do it. On the staging pad you can see the tire tracks from the previous car. Put your front tires in those tracks.
a. Pick a favorite lane. If you have, say, four runs, pick the lane where you get the best 60-foot times. One lane may be better prepped than the other.
b. Pick-up front tire pressure 5 pounds.
c. Front tires straight at the Christmas Tree.
d. If you are working on ET, stage shallow. A shallow stage has the staging light flickering. Then more forward an inch.
e. If possible, choose who you follow. Avoid following an idiot with street tires who drives through the water box, and carries water dripping up to the Christmas Tree. If you can follow a pro-mod with 10.5 inch slicks, do it. On the staging pad you can see the tire tracks from the previous car. Put your front tires in those tracks.
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Originally Posted by Alberto
David shallow stage is for trap increase, deep stage is for better E.T.
The more shallow your stage, the faster your car will be traveling when it finally breaks the timing beam. And the better your ET will be. a “shallow” stage will produce a better elapsed time (E.T.) but a poorer reaction time and a “deep” stage will produce a better reaction time but a higher E.T.
Reference: http://www.rangerpowersports.com/tech/?p=8
Shallow staging produces the most rollout, which is essentially a head start. Deep staging eliminates that head start, which will slow the e.t. but improve the reaction time.
Reference: http://www.hotrod.com/howto/42298/:
I always figured staging shallow would hurt your et because your traveling a slightly longer distance, the more I think about it, the timing beam doesnt know your traveling a further distance, it trips when you roll through so you would be already moving when that happens. I see your point-thanks for the lesson
Not shabby for your first time armitage.... you will certainly improve that 60ft with more practice....
I see davidv has been doing his homework. Did getting beat by that mustang convince you to stop shallow staging for good ET's during bracket racing??
I see davidv has been doing his homework. Did getting beat by that mustang convince you to stop shallow staging for good ET's during bracket racing??
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