I dont think it would be anything to worry about. Just wondering if there is any chance to break anything on a 5AT using drag radials? (just bolt ons)

 

Most likely no. With the automatic the drivetrain is already preloaded so there is no shock to the system like the 6 speed manual cars have.

 

Thats what I thought. Just wanted to make sure.

 

Ive never heard of a 5AT breaking an axle/cv joint-you'll be good to go...

 

Ill see how these work.

 

With the automatic and basic bolt ons, are you spinning that much?

 

It not spinning that much but bad enough to hurt my time. Last time out I was spinning off the line and running a few tenths slower but with the same trap speed.

My mods are:

Popcharger
MD 5/16" Iso-T plenum spacer
KJR 2lb crank pulley
Injen SES exhaust
3.5 final drive

 

if you dont have a big stall and mods done to launch at a higher rpm. there is no need for more traction. you should pull 1.9s with your setup on decent tires. those tires are going to bog you down for sure without a stall....

 

Looks like we're going to find out. Thanks for the input. Maybe thats my next mod then.

 

keep them aired up and they will work great, they will definitely take the track prep variable out of a stock auto and allow you to flash your stock converter or stall it up. try both to see what nets you the best 60( i would flash it). they wont hurt you at all if the run out doesnt mess up your gearing

 

Yeah, I was going to start at 20-25 psi to start and see how it goes. Thanks. I usually just stall it up all the way. That seems to work better than flashing it.

 

maybe keeping it in neutral and revving it to 6000, then slamming it into driver will work wonders, i really dont know anyone that has tried it, i had a rental car that it worked GREAT on at stoplights...

 

Who said anything about doing that?

 

when I installed my nitto's last year, all they done was bog at low psi. 36 psi all around works for me. Launch at 2500rpm's and shift at redline and you'll be fine. Also let the car cool down for at least an hour before you race. Good luck!

 

most aluminum headed motors that are tuned correctly run better when at temp. and i dont recommend the neutral drop

 

My car runs very consistent even after running a few times back to back. Especially after I installed the MD Iso Thermal set up.

 

I don't have the MD thermal part, but a friend does and it cools down very quickly. I don't think you will bog with DR's. I have only run them once, but I was spinning them at launch. They are BFG T/A G-Force DR's though. Different tread pattern than yours, but pretty sticky.

 

If there is a way to destroy a axle, believe me, someone has done it.

 

if you break an axle on a stock stall and drs. they were defective from the factory or you had nasty wheel hop

 

Two questions,

What is flashing your converter, and

Why dont you use 18-24 psi?