yeah me too and welds suck sometimes!!! i have broken off a few studs cause those damn shanks you have to use. they are pretty hard to go on even if they are on correctly and then you force them a bit and its over.

i am about to buy some new ones to run my 28 inch slicks that i have here... probably get those light *** centerlines...

 

that's what I'm running right now as well. The question is will a Centerline with 5" back spacing work

 

now this brings up 2 new questions:

1) Since pretty all true Drag Wheels use Shank Lugs (including the drag Centerline wheels) is this a mandatory rule in order to run slicks....meaining could we get kicked off the track for not running wheels with Shank lugs?

2) Shank lugs obviously add stabitlity to the studs is there actually a danger running slicks without them, I rather have to replace a stud ever so often but stay alive...

 

I don't know how the rulebook states it (and I'm not inclined to go rifling through the rulebook to find out since it doesn't really apply at the tracks I run at most of the time), but I know that at some of the more strict tracks you actually have to run lugs that have an open end so they can see how far your stud sticks through the lug, and it has to have a certain amount of thread engaged. What that number is though, I don't know. Whether or not they have to be shank style, I don't think so. I've run at Route 66 in Joliet which is a very strict NHRA track and I've run slicks there on normal style wheels with normal style, open end lugs. Some tracks are super strict, and some tracks don't even make you pop your hood or give you a second thought as they put the number on your window.

 

I was about to order these and guess what the jegs price is now $206

damnit I waited too long!

 

PWNED

 

IIRC, the threads of the stud have to screw into the hex portion of the lug nut at least as deep as the studs diameter, acorn or shank,